Page 272 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - South Africa
P. 272

270      THE  EAST  C O AST  AND  INTERIOR

       1 The Wild Coast                        The statue was unveiled by
                                               Nelson Mandela in 1997 to mark
       The appropriately named Wild Coast is an outdoor paradise   the 20th anniversary of
       with rugged cliffs, sheltered bays and dense coastal forests.   Biko’s death.
       The region roughly stretches 280 km (175 miles) from East     The East London Museum,
       London to the Umtamvuna Nature Reserve next to Port   established in 1921, has an
                                               interesting collection of natural
       Edward in KwaZulu-Natal. Much of the land is communally   and cultural exhibits, including
       owned by the Xhosa, whose rural communities live off the   fossils found in the region. There
       land and adhere to age-old traditions. Spectacular beaches   are also displays on maritime
       front a section of the Indian Ocean that is notorious for    history and on the Xhosa people.
       its shipwrecks.
                                               E East London Museum
                                               319 Oxford St. Tel 043 743 0686.
                                               Open 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri
                                               (to 4pm Fri). & 7 =
                                               ∑ elmuseum.za.org
                                               Morgan Bay and Kei Mouth
                                               Road map E4. Off the N2, 85 km
                                               (53 miles) E of East London. * 400.
                                               n Morgan Bay Hotel, Beach Rd, 043
                                               841 1062. ∑ morganbayhotel.co.za
                                               These coastal villages lie on a
                                               stretch of coast renowned for its
                                               scenery. At Kei Mouth, a pont
                                               transports vehicles across the
       East London’s Orient Beach is popular with bathers and surfers  Great Kei River to the for mer
                                               Xhosa “homeland” known as
       Exploring the Wild Coast  position as a river port was soon   Transkei. The Morgan Bay
       The resorts, reserves and villages   recognized. Today, the second-  Hotel adjoins the beach,
       are accessible from the N2, and   largest city in the Eastern   and the Ntshala Lagoon
       most of the roads are tarred,   Cape is predominantly   offers safe swim ming.
       though some are not in great   an industrial centre,   Walks along the cliffs
       condition, and potholes are a   but it does have   afford superb views
       hazard. There is no public   good swimming    of the sea. Further
       transport to speak of, but buses   beaches, washed by   south, at Double
       ply the N2 and some of the   the warm waters of   Mouth, a spur
       resorts arrange transfers.  the Indian Ocean.  overlooking the
                             Among several           ocean and estuary
       East London         historic sites is the     provides one of
       Road map E5. * 720,000. ~ R347,   statue of Black   the finest views in the
       12 km (7 miles) W of East London.    Conscious ness leader   whole country.
       £ Station Rd. @ Oxford St.   Steve Biko in front of   Rock angling is a
       East London was originally   the City Hall. Born in   popular sport  Kei Mouth to
       founded as a military camp on   the Eastern Cape, he   Mbashe River
       the banks of the Buffalo River    died under dubious circum-  Road map E4. 95 km
       in 1847, and its strategic    stances while in police custody.   (59 miles) E of East London.
                                               The Kei River marks the start of
        Coelacanth                             the Wild Coast. Twenty rivers
                                               enter this 80-km (50-mile) long
        In 1938 a boat fishing off the         stretch, along which is strung a
        Chalumna River mouth near East         succession of old-fashioned
        London netted an unusual fish.         family hotels. Kei Mouth is only
        The captain sent it to the East        an hour’s drive from East
        London Museum, whose curator,   The coelacanth  London, making it a popular
        Marjorie Courtenay-Latimer,            weekend destination.
        contacted Professor JLB Smith, ichthyol ogist at Rhodes University.     Further north, Dwesa Nature
        The fish belonged to a species believed to have become extinct   Reserve extends along the
        with the dinosaurs. The re ward offered for another Latimeria   coast from the Nqabara River.
        chalumnae was claimed only in 1952, when one was netted off    The reserve is home to rare tree
        the Comoros Islands. The coelacanth is steel-blue and covered in   dassies and samango monkeys.
        heavy scales; it is distinguished by its six primitive, limb-like fins.  The grassland, coastline and
                                               forest are all pristine. On the
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp388–9 and pp406–7


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