Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - South Africa
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6      HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE                                        GA UTENG  AND  MPUM ALANGA      311
                                                                            GAUTENG AND SUN CITY
                                                                            Johannesburg is an urban conglomerate that developed around
      HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE                                                 lies sedate and elegant Pretoria, founded by the Voortrekkers
                                                                            the rich gold mines of the Witwatersrand in Gauteng. To the north
                                                                            before the discovery of gold and today South Africa’s
                                                                            administrative capital. In the northwest, the glittering Sun
                                                                            City complex provides fast-paced entertainment, while the
                                                                            neighbouring Pilanesberg reserve offers Big Five game-viewing.
                                                                            The rocky Witwatersrand (“ridge of white   homes. The Magaliesberg mountain
                                                                            waters”) escarpment lies about 1,600 m   range is a nearby nature retreat whose
       This guide helps you to get the most from a   safaris. The four regional sections, plus    (5,250 ft) above sea level and stretches for   lower slopes are popular for hiking.
                                                                            80 km (50 miles) from west to east. After
                                                                                    The ambitious Sun City development
                                                                                    turned the most unpromising terrain in
                                                                            the discovery of the main reef on the
                                                                            Witwatersrand in 1886, gold fast became   the former homeland of Bophuthatswana,
       visit to South Africa, providing expert   Cape Town, describe important sights,    the basis of the national economy and   now part of the North West Province, into
                                                                            dictated the development of the then
                                                                                    an opulent leisure resort. Subsequent
                                                                            mostly rural Transvaal Boer republic. While   expansion produced the exotic fantasy
                                                                            Johannesburg was built on gold and
                                                                                    called The Palace of the Lost City, where
       recommendations and detailed practical   using photographs, maps and illustrations.   industry, Pretoria was founded as a capital   tropical jungle now covers what once was
                                                                            during the Voortrekker period of South
                                                                                    overgrazed farmland, and computer-
                                                                            Africa’s past, and is still today the home    generated waves wash onto pristine, man-
       information. Introducing South Africa maps   Restaurant and hotel recommendations    of government departments and   made beaches. Even those who do not
                                                                            diplomatic missions.
                                                                                    find the complex to their taste have to
                                                                                    admire the effort and planning that went
                                                                              Those who wish to escape the cities
                                                                                    into its creation. Adjoining Sun City is the
                                                                            do not have far to go. Northwest of
       the country and sets it in its historical and   can be found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival   Johannesburg and Pretoria is the   Pilanesberg Game Reserve, which was
                                                                            Hartbeespoort Dam, where water- sports
                                                                                    created out of an extinct volcanic crater in
                                                                            enthusiasts flock at weekends, and the   1979 and today is home to all the large
                                                                            shores are lined with resorts and holiday
                                                                                    animals visitors expect to see on safari.
       cultural context. Wild South Africa is a   Guide contains practical tips on everything
       detailed guide to wildlife viewing and    from transport to personal safety.
                                       C APE  T OWN      125               In October, the streets of Pretoria are ablaze with lilac jacaranda blossoms
       Cape Town             THE CITY BOWL      Each area has its colour-coded    Doors of the Constitutional Court, Johannesburg, with carvings symbolizing the rights enshrined in the Constitution
                             Cape Town’s Central Business   The many open-air markets and   310-311_EW_South_Africa.indd   All Pages  29/05/2015   15:52
                             District is cradled at the foot of   informal stalls with an ethnic   thumb tabs.
       The “mother city” has been   Table Mountain. The city is bounded   African flavour are attractions in
                             by Devil’s Peak to the east and Lion’s
                                    their own right, and nature lovers
                             Head to the west. Table Bay harbour   are enthralled by the city’s scenic
       divided into three sight seeing   and the V&A Waterfront separate   beauty. Early Cape Dutch and
                                    19th-century Vic torian architecture
                             the city centre from the Atlantic
                             Ocean. Visitors are often surprised   may be admired on a stroll through
       areas. Each has its own chapter   by Cape Town’s sophistication: it   town. Particularly inter esting   A locator map shows clearly where
                             offers a plethora of culturally var ied,
                                    buildings are Heritage Square on
                             exciting restaurants, and vibrant
                                    the corner of Shortmarket and
       opening with a list of the sights   nightlife in the clubs and bars   Buitengracht streets, as well as    the area is in relation to other areas
                                    the Blue Lodge on Long Street.
                             around Kloof and Long streets.
       described. The Further Afield   Sights at a Glance  Parks and Gardens  of the city.
                             Museums and Galleries
                             2 Iziko Slave Lodge
                                 9 Table Mountain pp136–7
                             4 District Six Museum   Historic Buildings
                             8 Iziko Bo-Kaap Museum
       section covers many peripheral   0 Iziko South African   1 Iziko Michaelis Collection
                                 3 Grand Parade and City Hall
                             National Gallery
                                 5 Iziko Castle of Good Hope pp130–31
                             q South African Jewish
                                 7 Iziko Koopmans-De Wet House
                             Museum
       places of inter est. All sights are   w Iziko South African   Area Map For easy reference,
                             Museum and
                             Planetarium
                              Churches
       numbered and plotted on an   6 Lutheran Church   1sights are numbered and
                                  BEACH  HELEN SUZMAN   located on a map. City centre
                                  BOULEVARD
       Area Map. Information on the   LONDON FIRMOUNT FRERE  3 ANCHOR BAY  SPRINGBOK HIGH LEVEL OCEAN VIEW
                                 NORFOLK
                                BEACH  MAIN  OCEAN VIEW  WALTER SISULU  sights are also marked on the
       sights is easy to locate as   ST JOHNS HIGH LEVEL  SIGNAL HILL  YUSUF  CHIAPPINI  ALBERT LUTHULI LONG  TABLE BAY BOULEVARD
                               R E G E N T  UPPER CLARENS  M ILITA RY  UPPER BLOEM  BUITENGRACHT  WALE  LOOP  ADDERLEY  NELSON MANDELA   Cape Town Street Finder
       it follows the numerical    VIC T ORIA   BEACH  OCEAN VIEW KLOOF  FRESNAYE DISANDT  FRESNAYE   SIGNAL HILL  DEVONPORT  MILNER NEW CHURCH  QUEEN VICTORIA LOOP LONG  PLEIN  DARLING STRAND TENNANT  NELSON  MANDELA  BOUL EVARD   maps (see pp175–83).
                                        OLD MARINE
                              QUEENS
                                 SPORTS CLUB
                                          NEW MARKET
                                          SIR LOWRY
                                           CHAPEL
       order used on the map.  KLOOF   ARCADIA  CLOSE   LION'S  HEAD  ST MICHAEL'S KLOOF NEK  CAMP  KLOOF ORA NGE  HOF  HATFIELD  MILL HOPE  BUITENKANT  ROELAND JUTLAND  CONSTITUTION KEIZERSGRACHT  CHESTER
                                   DE HOOP
                                   F I RD A L E   MOLTENO  De Waal Park  DE WAAL
                                   BELLEVUE  HOF  BELVEDERE  PRIN C E  BUITENKANT  VREDE HOEK
                                  HIGGO   MONTROSE UPPER ORANGE  GORGE  DAVENPORT ST JAMES CHELMSFORD
                                     RUGBY  DEER PARK WEST
                                      BRIDLE
                             0 metres  750
                             0 yards  750
       Sights at a Glance lists the   Cape Town’s City Hall, home to the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra  For keys to symbols see back flap  THE  CIT Y  BOWL      127
                               126      C APE  T OWN
       chapter’s sights by category:
                                           ROBBEN ISLAND
          124-125_EW_South_Africa.indd   125  Street-by-Street: City Centre  28/05/2015   14:04  Southern Sun Cape Sun
                                                     on Strand Street
                                            V&A
       Museums and Galleries,   The compact city centre lends itself to walk ing, because    WATERFRONT   The towering bronzed-
                                                     glass façade of this city
                               most of its major sights are easily accessible. Cape Town is
                               dissected by a number of thoroughfares, one of which is   CITY CENTRE  hotel is a landmark. The
                                                     views from the top floors
       Churches, Parks and Gardens,   Adderley Street. The parallel St George’s Mall is a lively   are exceptional.
                               pedestrian zone where street musicians and dancers
       Historic Buildings, etc.  entertain the crowds. Greenmarket Square, the focal point of   Locator Map
                               the city, is lined with many historically significant buildings.
                                          See Street Finder, map 5
                               One block west of here, towards Signal Hill, is Long Street.
                               Some beau tiful examples of elaborate Victorian buildings   St George’s Mall
                               with balconies and intricate ironwork – now housing shops,   A bustling pedestrian area, St George's Mall is
                                                          full of street entertainers, shops and cafés
                               bars and hostels – can be seen along this street.  H O U T   S T R E E T
         Street-by-Street Map                         C A S T L E   S T R E E T  S T R A N D   S T R E E T
       2This gives a bird’s-eye view      L O N G   S T R E E T  S H O R T M A R K E T   S T R E E T  Foreshore
         of the key areas in each   . Greenmarket Square  H O U T   S T R E E T   Adderley Street runs from the
                                                              Adderley Street
                                                            Gardens to the Foreshore. The
                               A produce market since
         sightseeing area.     1806, and now a national   L O N G M A R K E T   S T R E E T  G E O R G E ’ S   M A L L  flower sellers have a perman ent
                                                 S T
                               monument, the cobbled
                                                             spot at Trafalgar Place.
                               square supports a colourful,
                               daily open-air craft market.
                               Among the historic   B U R G   S T R E E T   0 metres 0 yards  100 100
                               buildings surrounding it is   Bo-Kaap
                               the Old Town House.   D A R L I N G   S T R E E T
                                                        and the Grand
                                                        Parade
       Stars indicate the sights that no   C H U R C H   S T R E E T   A D D E R L E Y   S T R E E T   The Castle
       visitor should miss.
                                     . Long Street
                                     This well-preserved historic street is   W A L E   S T R E E T
                                     lined with elegant Victorian buildings
                                     complete with graceful, delicate   Standard Bank
                                     wrought-iron balconies.  Britannia is seated on the dome, high
                                                           above the four-columned portico.
                                             Government    The foundation stone of the building
                                                              was laid in 1880.
                                             Avenue  B U R E A U   S T R E E T
                                                          Groote Kerk
        128      C APE  T OWN      THE  CIT Y  BOWL      129  Only the original steeple remains of
                                                          South Africa’s oldest church. Completed
                                     2. Iziko Slave Lodge  in 1703, it was rebuilt around 1840. The
                                     The exhibits at this museum illustrate   carved pulpit, dating to 1789, is the work
                  By 1807, new premises from   the Dutch Reformed Church in   people streamed to the    Key   of sculptor Anton Anreith and carpenter
                                     the history of the site, the second-
                  which to administer the Cape   Cape Town from 1864–71.  Grand Parade to celebrate the   Suggested route  Jan Jacob Graaff.
                                     oldest colonial building in Cape Town.
                  Colony were needed, and    For hotels and restaurants in this area see p384 and pp398–9
                                    release of the country's future
                  the Slave Lodge suited most   R Groote Kerk  president. Today the City Hall is
                  requirements. Many slave   43 Adderley St. Map 5 B2. Tel 021 422   home to the Cape Philharmonic
                  inhabitants of the lodge were   0569. Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri. Ring   Orchestra, which regularly
                  sold, while others were moved   ahead for a free guided tour.  performs here.
                  to the west wing of the
                  building. The vacated area was
                  turned into offices. In 1811, the   3 Grand Parade   4 District Six
                  west wing was also converted.  and City Hall   Museum
                    The people responsible for
                  the conversion were the   Darling St. Map 5 C2.   25a Buitenkant St. Map 5 B2.
                  builder Herman Schutte, the   The Grand Parade was the site   Tel 021 466 7200. Open 9am–4pm
                  sculptor Anton Anreith and the   van Riebeeck selected for his first   Mon–Sat. & 8 -    A suggested route for a walk
                  architect Louis Michel Thibault.   fort in 1652. The structure was   ∑ districtsix.co.za
        The Old Town House, where the Iziko Michaelis Collection is kept  As well as govern ment offices,   levelled in 1674 when the Castle   Up until the 1970s, the Sixth
                               of Good Hope (see pp130–31)
                                    Municipal District of Cape Town
                  the lodge also housed the
        1 Iziko Michaelis   interesting, offering an insight   Supreme Court, the post office   was completed; until 1821 the   was home to almost a tenth of   covers the more interesting streets
        Collection   into Dutch society at the time.  and the public library. The   Many Cape Muslims have green grocer stalls   area was used as parade and   the city’s population. In 1965, the
                  present building once
                          on the Grand Parade
               In addition to the permanent
                               exercise ground for the troops.
                                    apartheid govern ment declared
        Greenmarket Square. Map 5 B1.    collection, the gallery has a   extended into Adderley Street,   As buil dings went up around the   the area “white”, under the Group    in the area.
        Tel 021 481 3933. Open 10am–5pm   series of temporary exhibitions   but this portion had to be   Across the road from the Slave   peri meter, greengrocers   Areas Act of 1950. Removals
        Mon–Sat. Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. &   that have been designed to   demolished when the road    Lodge is the Groote Kerk (big   established fruit stalls, precursors   began in 1968, and by 1982,
        ∑ iziko.org.za   appeal to both locals and   was widened. However, the   church). Soon after their arrival   of today’s flea market, which   more than 60,000 people had
        Located in the Old Town House,   visitors alike.  original façade, designed by   at the Cape, the Dutch held   operates from Monday to   been forcibly uprooted from their
        this national monu ment was     After hours, the gallery   Thibault, has been restored to    religious services on board   Friday. The site is now used   homes and relocated 25 km (16
        built in 1755 in the Cape Rococo   becomes a cultural centre,   its former splendour.  Jan van Riebeeck’s ship,   both as a car park and as a   miles) away onto the barren
        style. It initially served as the   hosting chamber-music     Iziko Museums of Cape Town   Drommedaris. Later, they   venue for popular events.  plains of the Cape Flats.
        “Burgherwacht Huys” (house of   concerts and lectures.  has transformed the Slave   used a small room at      Overlooking the Grand     The District Six Museum was
        the night patrol) and the   Lodge into a major site that   Castle Good Hope.   Parade is Cape Town’s   launched in 1994 to comme-
        magistrate’s court; in 1839, it was   increases public awareness   However, they soon   imposing City Hall. Built    morate the events of the   Detailed Information
        claimed as a town hall by the   2 Iziko Slave    of slavery, cultural   saw the need for a   in 1905 in the elaborate   apartheid era and preserve the
        newly formed municipality.    Lodge   diversity and the   per manent site. A first,   Italian Renaissance style,   memory of District Six as it was
        After renovations in 1915, the   Cnr Wale & Adderley sts.   struggle for human   temporary struc ture at   it presents its elegant   before the removals. It does this
        building was handed over    Map 5 B2. Tel 021 467   rights in South   the northeast end of   façades on four different   through a fascinating collection   3All the sights in Cape Town
        to the Union Government    7229. Open 10am–5pm   Africa. The history    the Company’s Garden   streets. A 39-bell carillon   that includes historical documents,
        for use as an art gallery.  Mon–Sat. Closed 1 May,   of slavery at the   was replaced by a   tower was added in   photographs, audio-visual
          The original collection was   25 Dec. & 7    Cape is illustrated   thatched church on the   Andrew Murray  1923, which is an   recordings and physical remains
        donated to the city by the   ∑iziko.org.za  Plaque on the Iziko   with three-  same site in 1700, at the   (1828–1917)  impressive half-size   of the area such as street signs.  are described individually.
        wealthy financier Sir Max   Slave Lodge  dimensional and   order of Governor Willem   replica of London’s
        Michaelis in 1914. It was added   The first building on this   audiovisual displays   Adriaan van der Stel.  Big Ben. It was from the balcony
        to by Lady Michaelis after the   site was a lodge that housed   along with text, images and     The church was completely   of the City Hall that Nelson   5 Iziko Castle of   Addresses, telephone numbers
        death of her husband in 1932.   the slaves who worked in the   maps. A section that focuses on   rebuilt in the 19th century,    Mandela addressed the world
        The collection consists of a   Company’s Garden (see pp134–  life at the lodge is based on   and the new building was   after spending 27 years in prison.  Good Hope
        world-renowned selection of   5). One of the oldest buildings   archaeological and archival   dedicated in 1841. All that   On that day in 1990, 250,000   See pp130–31.
        Dutch and Flemish art from the   in Cape Town, it was built around   sources, as well as the memories   remains of the original church   and other practical informa tion
        17th-century Golden Age. The   1679 on land that originally   of people who trace their roots   today is the Baroque belfry,
        portraits are particularly   formed part of the garden.  to the time of slavery in the Cape.  which, unfortunately, is now
                          almost obscured by tall
             The Michaelis Collection  modern buildings.  are also provided for each
                            Of interest in the church
             This important art collection was established in 1914, when    is the splendid original pulpit
             Sir Max Michaelis donated 68 paintings collected by Lady Phillips    supported by carved lions. The
             and Sir Hugh Lane. The gallery formally opened three years later, and   story goes that sculptor Anton   entry. The key to the symbols
             today houses some 104 paintings and 312 etchings. It includes works   Anreith’s original con cept
             by Frans Hals, Rembrandt, van Dyck, David Teniers the Younger,   including the symbolic images
             Jan Steen and Willem van Aelst. Although the collection is rather    of Hope, Faith and Charity was
             small in comparison to international galleries, it presents a valuable   rejected as being too papist.  used in the information block
             source of reference of the evolution of Dutch and Flemish art over      The façade of the church has
             two centuries. One of the most famous paintings in the collection    high Gothic windows divided
             is the Portrait of a Lady by Frans Hals.
                          by bold pilasters. In front of    is shown on the back flap.
             Portrait of a Lady, Frans Hals (1640)  the building is a statue of
                          Andrew Murray, minister of    Cape Town’s City Hall, opposite the Grand Parade
        For hotels and restaurants see pp384–5 and pp398–401
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