Page 195 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia
P. 195

SLA VONIA  AND  BAR ANJA      193


                           commemorate the victory in   in bronze representing Victory
                           the countryside surrounding   commemorates the fallen of
                           Topolje. The location has   World War II. It is the work of
                           particular charm as the    one of the great Croatian artists
                           church is set among trees   of the 20th century, Antun
                           standing alone among a   Augustinčić (see p24).
                           patchwork of fields of maize
                           and tobacco. The church was
                           sacked, however, and nearly
                           completely destroyed in the
                           conflicts following the break-up
                           of former Yugoslavia. The
                           building is now undergoing
                           extensive restoration although
                           the splendid furnishings have
                           sadly been lost.
                             Here, as in Darda (right),
                           there are several Hungarian
                           communities, who, together
       Naive sculpture on show at Ernestinovo  with the Croats, are gradually
                           returning after their exile during   Mansion of the Esterházy barons, now the
       u Ernestinovo       the Yugoslav occupation. The   Town Hall of Darda
                           Hungarian-style houses with
       Map F2. * 1,200. k Osijek,              p Darda
       20 km (12 miles). @ from Osijek.   their overhanging roofs add a
       n Regional: Kapucinska 40, Osijek,   distinctive character to the area.   Map F2. * 5,400. k Osijek, 15km
       (031) 214 852. _ Open-air exhibition   In the autumn, long strings of   (9 miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional:
       of sculpture (Aug).  chilli peppers can be seen   Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852.
                           hanging out to dry in the sun.
       For many years, well-known              An elegant mansion built by the
       sculptors have been meeting    Environs  Esterházy barons in the second
       in Ernestinovo to present their   Around 10 km (6 miles) east of   half of the 18th century, now
       work in a summer show. This   Topolje is the town of Batina.    renovated and used as the
       small village is now famous for   In Roman times this was the    Town Hall, is the only evidence
       its open-air exhibitions. The    site of a fortress on the banks    of Darda’s history. Darda was
       first exhibition was organized    of the River Danube and was   once a fortified city, represented
       in 1976 by the sculptor Petar   known by the name of Ad   on 17th-century maps as a
       Smajić. It took place in exile   Militarae. Until the war of 1991,   large fortress, connected to
       from 1991 to 1996 and    which depopulated this small   Osijek by the 8-km (5-mile)
       returned to Ernestinovo the   town set among hills and   bridge of Solimano. Built in
       following year. Many works    vineyards, there was a bridge   1566 to cross marshland, the
       of art are displayed and    connecting Baranja with   bridge was destroyed in 1664
       offered for sale in the village   Hungary and Vojvodina, but   by Nikola Zrinski (see p181) to
       galleries. Ernestinovo was    since its destruction, both river   block the Turkish army. On that
       badly damaged during the    and road traffic have stopped.  occasion the city was
       war in the 1990s.     On one of the small hills near   subsequently devastated.
                           Topolje, a tall monument in     In the recent war in the 1990s,
                           white stone with a female figure   two 18th-century churches
       i Kopački Rit                           were destroyed: the Catholic
       Nature Park                             church of St John the Baptist
                                               (Sv. Ivan Krstitelj) and the
       See pp198–9.                            Orthodox church of St
                                               Michael (Sv. Mihajlo).
       o Topolje                               Environs
                                               Bilje, 4 km (2 miles) south
       Map F2. * 200. k Osijek, 46 km
       (28 miles). £ Beli Manastir, 16 km (10   of Darda, is the site of the
       miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional:      information office for the
       Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852.   Kopački Rit Nature Park (see
                                               pp198–9). It is housed in a
       In 1687, after the victory in           palace built by Prince Eugene
       Vienna over the Turks, Prince           of Savoy, who was granted the
       Eugene of Savoy, commander              small town of Bilje after the
       of the Imperial forces, decided   Hungarian-style houses with chilli peppers   victory in Vienna over the
       to build a church to   hanging to dry, Topolje  Turks (1687).




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