Page 219 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia
P. 219

THE  NOR THERN  C OUNTIES      217



        Tips for Drivers
        Length of tour: 100 km
        (62 miles).
        Stops:  Toplice Hotel, A
        Mihanovića 2, Krapinske T,
        (049) 202 202; Hotel Minerva,
        Trg slobode 1, Varaždinske T,
        (042) 630 534.
        n Stubičke T, V Šipeka 24,
        (049) 282 727; Krapinske T,
        Zagrebačka 4, (049) 232 106;
        Terme Tuhelj, Gajeva 4, (049)
        203 000; Sutinske T, (049)
        466 627; Varaždinske T,
        (042) 633 133.

    Varaždin               Decorated interior of the church of St Mary of the Snows, Belec
                    Ludbreg  t Belec           y Varaždinske
                           Map D1. * 500. @ from Zabok.    Toplice
                           n Regional: D G Krambergera 1,   Map D1. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb
                           Krapina, (049) 233 653.  and Novi Marof. @ from Zagreb.
        Novi Marof                             n Trg slobode 16, (042) 633 133.
                           Among the hills of Zagorje is   ∑ toplice-vz.hr
                           the village of Belec, much loved
                           by art historians, because on its   The waters that gush from a
                           outskirts is the small Church of   sulphurous spring at the foot of
                           St George (Sv. Jurja), one of the   the hill south of Varaždin were
                           few Romanesque buildings   known to the Jasi, an Illyrian
                           preserved in inland Croatia. The   tribe, in the 3rd century BC.
                           bell tower takes up nearly all    The town was known as Aquae
                           of the façade (it resembles a   Jasae by the Romans, and the
                           defensive tower rather than a   spa rapidly developed, as shown
                           campanile). On the right is a   by the numerous archaeological
                           small portico with two thin   finds discovered here. The baths
                           columns. This leads to the   were used until the area was
                           interior, where there is an ornate  invaded by the Goths. Later, a
                           Gothic altar and interesting   landslide buried the baths in
                           frescoes dating from the year    mud and for centuries they
                           of its construction.  were forgotten.
                             Lower down the hillside is the     In the 12th century, under
                           Church of St Mary of the Snows  the rule of the bishop of
                           (Sv. Marija Snježna), constructed   Zagreb, a village was founded
                           by the Keglević family in 1674.   with the name of Toplissa and
                           This church is considered a   the inhabitants began to use
       6 Varaždinske Toplice    masterpiece of Croatian   the hot water from the spring
       The spa resort in Varaždinske   Baroque, because of its   once more. During the
       Toplice is one of the oldest in   sumptuously decorated and   construction of the present-
       Croatia. The first baths were set up   ornamented interior. The    day resort, the Roman town
       by the Romans at the end of the   monk and artist Ivan Ranger    was rediscovered.
       18th century and are still in use.   (see p210) painted some of his     Varaždinske Toplice also
       The first public spa was opened    trompe-l’œil masterpieces here,   boasts a medieval district which
       to the public in 1820. The thermal   including Scenes from the Old   includes a castle, part of which
       waters are used to treat rheumatic   Testament and Episodes of the   houses a History Museum.
       and orthopaedic conditions.
                           Virgin Mary’s Life. The church   Inside a small fortress is the
                           also has a magnificent main   parish church with an organ
                           altar, surrounded by cherubs    from 1766 and two carved altars
        0 km  5            and saints.         made by Francesco Robba.
        0 miles    5                             In a nearby park is Seoska
                           R Church of St Mary    Kuća, a 19th-century rural
                           of the Snows        house with furniture and
                           Tel (049) 460 040. Open by appt.  objects from the same era.
                                                  For keys to symbols see back flap


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