Page 151 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

C ANNAREGIO  149

e Scalzi Tiepolo’s fresco of The Translation the design, such as the saints
of the Holy House to Loreto over the portal. The Martini
Fondamenta Scalzi. Map 1 C4.
Tel 041 822 40 06. 4 Ferrovia. (1743–5), which was destroyed chapel, second on the
Open 7am–noon, 4–7pm daily. by the Austrian bombardment left, is decorated with
of 24 October 1915. Della Robbia-style
Beside the modern railway station glazed terracotta.
(see p62) stands the church of The altarpieces by
Santa Maria di Nazareth, known r San Giobbe Giovanni Bellini and
as the Scalzi. The scalzi were Campo San Giobbe. Map 1 C3. Vittore Carpaccio
“barefooted” Carmelite friars Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Ponte dei 3 were removed
who came to Venice during the Archi. Open 10am–1:15pm Mon–Sat. when Napoleon
1670s and commissioned their Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. suppressed the
church to be built on the Grand ^ ∑ chorusvenezia.org monastery of San
Canal. Designed by Baldassare Giobbe, and are now
Longhena, the huge Baroque The church of San Giobbe stands in the Accademia
interior is an over-elaboration of in a remote campo full of cats. Gallery (pp134–7).
marble, gilded woodwork and The early Gothic structure of The church is under-
sculptures. The ceiling painting, the church was modified in the going restoration;
The Council of Ephesus by Ettore 1470s by Pietro Lombardo, who check the website Saint by Lombardo,
Tito (1934), replaced Giambattista added Renaissance elements to for details. San Giobbe portal

t The Ghetto
Map 2 E3. Tel 041 71 53 59. 4 Ponte
Guglie. Museo Ebraico: Campo del
Ghetto Nuovo. 4 Ponte Guglie.
Open 10am–7pm (Oct–May: to
5:30pm) Sun–Fri. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec, Jewish hols. & - = 8 for
the synagogues, in English, every hour
from 10:30am. ∑ museoebraico.it
In 1516 the Council of Ten (see
p48) decreed that all Jews in
Venice be confined to an islet of
Cannaregio. The quarter was cut
off by wide canals and the two
watergates were manned by The wrought-iron bridge leading northwards out of the Ghetto
Christian guards. The area was
named the Ghetto after a The rising number of Jews ceremonies still take place.
foundry – geto in Venetian – that forced the Ghetto to expand. There are also several shops
formerly occupied the site. The Buildings rose vertically and on the large Campo del Ghetto
name was subsequently given spread into the Ghetto Vecchio Nuovo, which sell items such as
to Jewish enclaves throughout (1541) and the neighbouring glass rabbis and Hanukah lamps.
the world. By day Jews were Ghetto Novissimo
allowed out of the Ghetto, but (1633). By the mid- Museo Ebraico
at all times they were made 17th century the The small Jewish
to wear identifying badges and Jewish population Museum in the
caps. The only trades they could numbered over 5,000. Ghetto Nuovo houses
pursue were in textiles, money- In 1797 Napoleon a collection of artifacts
lending and medicine. pulled down the Flowers in front of the from the 17th–19th
gates, but under the Holocaust Memorial centuries. A guided
Austrians the Jews tour of the quarter’s
were again forced into synagogues leaves from the
confinement. It was not until museum daily except Saturday,
1866 that they were granted every hour from 10:30am to
their freedom. 5:30pm (4:30pm in winter). Led
Of the 500 Jews now in Venice, by English-speaking guides, the
about 30 live in the Ghetto. tours give a fascinating glimpse
However, the quarter has not into the past life of the Ghetto.
lost its ethnic character. There A short history of the quarter is
are kosher food shops, a Jewish followed by a visit to the lavishly
Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the oldest part baker, a Jewish library, and two decorated German, Spanish and
of the Ghetto synagogues where religious Levantine synagogues.

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