Page 197 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto
P. 197

VERONA      195


       + Castelvecchio     armoured knights in combat,   VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
       Corso Castelvecchio 2. Tel 045 806 26   5th-century brooches and glass
       11. Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily (from   painted with a portrait of Christ   Practical Information
       1:30pm Mon); 9am–7pm public hols.   the Shepherd in gold. The   * 261,000. n Via degli
       Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec. & 9 =   martyrdom scenes depicted on   Alpini 9 (045 806 86 80).
       ∑ museodicastelvecchio.comune.  the carved marble sarcophagus   ∑ turismoverona.eu ( daily.
       verona.it           of SS Sergius and Bacchus (1179)   Shops: Closed Wed pm (food),
       This spectacular castle, built by   are gruesomely realistic.  Mon am (department &
       Cangrande II between 1355 and     The following section, which    clothing stores). _ Vinitaly –
       1375, has been transformed   is devoted to medieval and    Italy’s largest wine fair (Apr);
                                                 Festival della Lirica (opera
       into one of the Veneto’s finest   early Renaissance art, vividly   festival) (end Jun–Aug); Estate
       art galleries. Various parts of the   demonstrates the influence of   Teatrale Veronese, including
       medieval structure have been   northern art on local painters,   Shakespeare Festival (end
       linked together using aerial    suggesting strong links with   Jun–Aug).
       walk ways and corridors,   Verona’s neighbours across the
 ROVERETO  designed by Carlo Scarpa to   Alps. Here, instead of the serene   Transport
 TRENTO                                          k Villafranca 14 km (9 miles).
          give striking views of the   saints and virgins of Tuscan art,   V @ Piazza Cittadella.
 Santo
 San Giorgio  Stefano  building itself, as well as   the emphasis is on brutal realism.
 VIA
 VIA G. MAMELI
 Ponte  in Braida  the exhibits within, which   This is summed up in the 14th-
 Catena
 XXIV MAGGIO
 PIAZZA  Museo  VIA F O NTANA DEL FERRO   are excellent and varied.  century Crucifixion with Saints,   from Teutonic invaders from
 VIA FARINATA  VITTORIO
 UBERTI   Archeologico
 VENETO  VIALE MILLE   Ponte    The first section contains   which depicts the torture   beyond the Alpine range.
 Sant'  Pietra
 VIA ANZANI   Elena  Romano  a wealth of late Roman   musculature of Christ and   After the armour room, take
 Teatro
           and early Christian
                           the racked faces of the
                                                    the walkway that leads
 Ponte
 Ponte  Garibaldi  Duomo
 Risorgimento  VIA RISORGIMENTO   VIA IV NOVEMBRE   LUNG. CAMPAGNOLA   VIA GARIBALDI  VIA P. PIET R A   Sant'  material, including a   mourners in painful   out along the river flank
                           detail. Far more lyrical
                                                      of the castle, with its
            7th-century silver plate
 VIA TOM M A S O   D A   V ICO
 PESCHIERA  VIALE DELLA REPUBBLICA   Anastasia  Santa Maria  that shows   is a beautiful   dizzying views of the
 BRESCIA  San Zeno   in Organo
 MILANO  S. Eufemia  Arche Scaligere
 Maggiore  PIAZZA DEI  Santa Maria  Giardino  15th-century   swirling waters of
 SIGNORI  Giusti
 Ponte  PIAZZA DELLE  Antica  painting by Stefano      the River Adige and
 d. Vittoria  ERBE
 PIAZZA  Ponte             da Verona called            the Ponte Scaligero
 VIA DEL ERSAGLIESE
 S. ZENO  A di ge  PIAZZA  Nuovo  SALITA S. SEPOLCRO
 CORSO  Giulietta          The Madonna of the          (see p196). Next,
 ARSENALE  Casa di   V I A   S .   C H I A R A
 Ponte  CAVOUR  VIA  MAZZINI   VICENZA  Rose Garden. This   turning a corner, one
 Scaligero  Arco dei  CAPPELLO   PADOVA
 VIA
                    VENEZIA
 Gavi  Ponte  VIA S. NAZARO   contains many           finds Cangrande I,
 Castelvecchio  Arena  San Fermo   Navi  V I A   X X   S E T T E M B R E    PIAZZALE  allusions to popular   his equestrian statue
                   PORTA
 PIAZZA  Maggiore  VESCOVO
 BRA
  VIA ROMA
 Museu Lapidario  Museo Civico di   medieval fables,    dramatically displayed
 Maffeiano
                                                     out of doors on a
                           includ ing the figure
 Storia Naturale
 STRADONE PORTA PALIO   V I A  M A R C ON I   CITTADELLA   V. DEL PALLONE   V I A FRANCESCO TORBIDO   of Fortune with her   Cangrande I’s horse in   plinth. This 14th-
 VIC. LUNGO S. BERNARDINO
 PIAZZA
                           wheel. In the painting
                                           ceremonial garb
                                                     century statue once
 Ponte
 PORTA  V I A   V A L   V E R D E    Aleardi  LUNGA PTA.  VITTORIA   the Virgin sits in a   graced Cangrande’s
 PALIO  V. DEL PONTIERE   PIAZZALLE  pretty garden alive with   tomb (see p200). It is possible to
 Giardino  CORSO PORTA NUOVA   CIMITERO  Cimitero  decorative birds and angels   study every detail of the horse
 Zoologico  PIAZZA  VIA MONTANARI    V IA  B E R T O N I    Monumentale
 R. SIMONI  Tomba          gathering rosebuds.  and rider draped in their
 Aeroporto  di Giulietta
 Villafranca                 Other Madonnas from the
 14 km (9 miles)  V I A L E   L U C I A N O   D AL  CE R O   LUNGADIGE GALTAROSSA   ceremonial garb. Despite
 Adi ge  Sights at a Glance  15th century, attributed to   Cangrande’s cherubic cheeks and
 PIAZZALE                  Giovanni Bellini, are displayed   inane grin, his face is compelling.
 CIRC RAGGIO DI SOLE
 PORTA
 NUOVA  1 San Zeno Maggiore  among the late Renaissance     Beyond lie some of the
 V I A   F.  FA C C IO
 Stazione  Ponte San       works upstairs. Jewellery, suits
 Porta Nuova  MANTOVA  Francesco  2 Ponte Scaligero  museum’s celebrated paintings,
 BOLOGNA
       3 Castelvecchio     of armour, swords and shield   notably Paolo Veronese’s
       4 Arco dei Gavi     bosses feature next, some dating   Deposition (1565) and a portrait
       5 Museo Lapidario Maffeiano  back to the 6th and 7th centuries,   attributed by some to Titian,
       6 San Fermo Maggiore  when Verona was under attack   by others to Lorenzo Lotto.
       7 Arena
       8 Piazza dei Signori
       9 Piazza delle Erbe
       0 Santa Maria Antica
       q Sant’Anastasia
       w Duomo
       e San Giorgio in Braida
       r Santo Stefano
       t Teatro Romano
       y Museo Archeologico
       u Santa Maria in Organo
       i Giardino Giusti
       o Museo Civico di Storia Naturale   Courtyard of Castelvecchio
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