Page 252 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

250  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Bars and Cafés in Venice

Many bars in Venice draw their trade from tourists and are from a slice of bread and
busy throughout the day, as visitors ease their aching feet and prosciutto crudo (raw cured
consult their guidebooks. Custom is swelled mid-morning ham), meatballs or fried
and around lunchtime as the Venetians drop in for a drink or vegetables, to sardines and
baccalà (salt cod). The shade
snack. Cafés range from basic one-room bars patronized by is a glass of wine, so called
local workmen, to opulent coffeehouses in old-world style, because the gondoliers used to
such as Caffè Quadri and Caffè Florian. Even the humblest snatch a glass in the shade away
establishment provides a continuous range of refreshments from the glare of the sun on the
and you can enjoy anything from a morning coffee or water. Wine bars serving these
snacks and a range of wines
lunchtime beer, to an apéritif or a final brandy before bed. are numerous and heavily
Bars also serve snacks throughout their opening hours: freshly populated by locals. Many, such
baked morning pastries and lunchtime sandwiches, rolls, as Do Mori, are in the crowded
cakes, biscuits and sometimes home-made ice cream. Wine alleys off the Rialto, but one of
bars often have a wide range of traditional Venetian snacks, the nicest is the Cantina del
and so make good places to stop for lunch. Vino già Schiavi near the Ponte
San Trovaso.
Bars
wonderful cakes, or for an
Italians will often stop for expensive treat, go to Harry’s Cafés and Ice-Cream
breakfast in a bar on their way Dolci on the Giudecca (see p246). Parlours
to work.This normally consists Bear in mind that sitting Coffeehouses have played
of a cappuccino (milky coffee) down to drink in a bar or café their part in the history of the
and a brioche (a plain, jam- or can cost a lot more than Veneto – notably Padua’s Caffè
cream-filled pastry). Pasticceria standing at the bar, as there is Pedrocchi (see p182) – and a
Dal Mas, on the main route a table charge, which can be visit to Venice would not be
from the station to the Rialto, high. This rises proportionally complete without a drink at
is much favoured by early- as you draw nearer San Marco. the historic Caffè Florian or
morning commuters. Some bars, particularly in the Caffè Quadri. It is a hard
A wide range of alcoholic less tourist-frequented areas, decision whether to take a
drinks is on offer, and you can have a stand-up counter only. table outside and watch the
ask for a glass of wine or beer All have a lavatory (il bagno or il crowds or to experience the
on tap. Beer from the keg is gabinetto), though you may elegant charm of the interior
called birra alla spina and comes have to ask at the desk for the rooms, with their atmosphere
in three different sizes: piccola, key. It is also worth noting that of past eras. The prices are sky-
media and grande. Italian and bars and cafés tend to shut high, but you can take your
imported bottled beers are also earlier here than in other parts time and be entertained by
available, though the latter can of Italy, particularly in winter. the resident orchestras.
be expensive. All bars serve The normal procedure is to Harry’s Bar (see p96), is
glasses of mineral water and it is choose what you want to eat or another world-famous bar
acceptable to request a glass of drink, then ask for it and pay at and café. In summer it is
tap water (acqua del rubinetto), the cash desk. You will be given crammed with foreigners
which will be free. Most bars a receipt (lo scontrino) which and the prices are always high,
also serve delicious freshly you present at the bar. If they but for a treat, sip a Bellini,
squeezed fruit juices (una spre­ are busy, a small tip will usually a mixture of Prosecco and fresh
muta) and milkshakes made speed things up. If you decide white peach juice, in the place
with fruit (un frullato). Italian to sit down, either inside or at where it was invented.
bottled juices are good and are an outside table, your order will The cafés along the Zattere,
available in unusual flavours be taken by a waiter who will with their lovely views across
such as apricot and pear. bring the bill when he delivers the Giudecca Canal, make good
All bars serve a range of the drinks. You should expect to places to pause, and the prices
sandwiches (tramezzini) and pay double or more for this, but are much lower. Many Venetian
filled rolls (panini), and often you can stretch your drink out squares have cafés with tables
have toasted sandwiches and for as long as you like. outside. There are several in the
pizzas as well. Some double as Campo Santo Stefano, or try
cake shops (pasticceria), and Bar Colleoni in Campo Santi
these have a tempting range of Wine Bars Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo).
calorie-filled delights on display There is an old tradition in Il Caffè is the nicest in Campo
to eat in or take away. If you are Venice called cichetti e l’ombra, Santa Margherita.
near the Accademia, seek out meaning “a little bite and the Venetian ice cream is
the tiny Pasticceria Toletta for shade”. The little bite ranges definitely among the best in

250-251_EW_Venice.indd 250 8/18/17 11:16 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
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Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm