Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sydney

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Sydney Area Map 18  INTRODUCING SY DNEY PUT TING SY DNEY ON THE M AP  19
The coloured areas shown on this Central Sydney BRADFIELD HIGHWAY Sydney Harbour Fort
Bridge
This guide divides inner Sydney into six distinct
HICKSON ROAD
ROA D
areas, each of which has its own chapter.
map (see pp18–19) are the six main Most city sights are contained in these areas. THE ROCKS AND HICKSON Sydney Opera House Denison Art Gallery of New
LOWER FORT ST
The Rocks and Circular Quay is the oldest part
of inner Sydney, while the City Centre is today’s CIRCULAR QUAY Sydney South Wales
CUMBERLAND ST
The city’s premier art gallery
sightseeing areas – each covered central business district. The Botanic Garden H I C K S O N ARGYLE ST PARK Museum of Cove R O A D is set in the middle of
and The Domain form a green oasis almost in
OBSERVATORY
parkland in the Botanic
the heart of the city. To the west lies Darling
Garden and The Domain (see
CIRCULAR QUAY
Harbour, which includes Sydney’s Chinatown, and Contemporary Art C A H I L L E X P R E S S WAY MACQUARIE STREET pp104–17). It houses a fine
TOLL
by a full chapter in Sydney Area Surry Hills, home to buzzing bars and eclectic R O A D K E N T S T R E E T POINT GROSVENOR PLACE GROSVENOR ST GEORGE ST PITT STREET Circular Quay ROYAL F a rm Cove M A C Q U A R I E S collection of early Au
Aboriginal and European art.
shopping. To the east are Kings Cross and
Darlinghurst, areas known for their
by Area (pp62–151). The six areas are popular cafés and restaurants, and C L A R E N C E S T R E E T B R I D G E S T R E E T PHILLIP ST MACQUARIE STREET BOTANIC BOTANIC M R S
Museum
GARDEN
of Sydney
Paddington, a district that still
retains its 19th-century character.
GARDEN AND
highlighted on other maps through­ Australian National K E N T S T R E E T CENTRE P I T T S T R E E T G E O R G E MARTIN PLACE STREET THE THE DOMAIN CO WPER WHARF ROADWAY
Wynyard
CITY
Y O R K S T R E E T
New South
Maritime Museum WILD LIFE K I N G S T R E E T CASTLEREAGH ELIZABETH ST Martin Place DOMAIN ART G A LLERY ROAD Art Gallery of CHALLIS AVE
out the book. In Sydney at a Glance Pyrmont Bay Sydney Aquarium S US S EX M A R K E T S T R E E T Sydney Tower ST JAMES ROAD St James NICHOLSON ST B R O U G H A M S T R E E T V I C T O R I A S T R E E T HUGHES ST MACLEAY STRE
Sydney Zoo
Wales
SEA LIFE
S T R E E T
AVE
(pp34–49), for example, they help P Y R M O N T S T R E E T Convention Cockle Bay S T R E E T Town Hall PITT STREET E L I Z A B E T H HYDE COLLEGE STREET COOK PARK PHILLIP PARK CROWN ST B O U R K E S T F
GEORGE STREET
KENT STREET
Sydney Harbour, it is at the northern end
of the Kings Cross and Darlinghurst area
P A R K S T R E E T
WILLIAM ST Kings Cross DARLINGHURST ROAD WARD AVEN UE (see pp118–23).
locate the top sights, including art H A R R I S S T R E E T H ARBOUR Museum KINGS CROSS AND
PARK Australian
S T
B AT H U R S T S T R E E T
WILLIAM S T R E E T
K INGS CROSS ROAD
CRAIGEND
Exhibition Centre STREET L I V E R P O O L S T R E E T Museum LIVERPOOL ST PALMER STREET B O U R K E S T D I S T R I B U T O R E A S T E R N DARLINGHURST STREET

galleries and museums, significant Lord Nelson Hotel P I E R S T RE ET GOULBURN STREET C A S T L E R E A G H S T R E E T O X F O R D CROWN FORBES STREET LIVERPOOL STREET R O A D WOMERAH AVENUE
DARLING
This traditional pub in
The Rocks (see pp64–79) first Powerhouse HARBOUR S T R E E T S T R E E T WENTWORTH AVENUE S T R E E T ST BURTON ST D A R L I N G H U R S T
Museum
opened its doors in 1834.
architecture and the best parks Its own specially brewed H A R R I S S T R E E T ULTIMO ROAD Paddy's Markets H AY S T R E E T G E O R G E Capitol Square P I T T ELIZABETH STREET CAMPBELL STREET SQUARE TAYLOR
beers are available on tap.
and reserves. They are also used RAILWAY SQUARE STREET Central Railway EDDY AVE Central FOVEAUX ST REET RILEY STREET CROWN STREET SOUTH DOWLING STREET SELWYN STREET O X F O R R O A D D S T R E E T ORMOND STREET STAFFORD STR
A L B I O N S T R E E T
Station
to show some of the top shopping Key Major sight REGENT STREET LEE CHALMERS STREET SURRY M O O R E G RE E N S P A R K PADDINGTON O X F O R D U N D E R W O O D PADDINGTON STREET Centennial Park
HILLS
RENNY STREET
Central Railway Station
This green expanse in
areas (pp200–1). Sydney Trains station DEVONSHIRE STREET PARK R O A D ALLIANZ STADIUM L E I N S T E R M O O R E G O R D O N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Q U E E N S T R E E T Paddington
Light Rail station
was once part of a
Coach station Kippax Lake S T R E E T P A R K R O A D JAMES STREET sanddune system
Ferry boarding point Queen Victoria Building MOORE D RI V E R A V E N U E O X F O R D S T R E E T Botany Bay in the south.
that extended from
This Romanesque-style former
GREGORY AVENUE
Tourist information produce market, built in the 1890s, SYDNEY CRICKET L A N E
Hospital with casualty unit forms part of a fine group of Victorian- GROUND CENTENNIAL
Police Station era buildings in the City Centre THE ENTERTAINMENT C E N T E N N I A L L A N G R O A D PARK
retains many original features,
Church (see pp80–91). Now a shopping mall, it QUARTER
Synagogue including its roof statues and stained- 0 metres 0 yards 250 250
Mosque glass windows.
Finding your way around the sightseeing section
Façades of important Numbers refer to each sight’s
buildings are often position on the area map and
pictured to help you its place in the chapter.
recognize them quickly.
Practical information lists all the
information you need to visit every
68  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QU A Y  69
1 Campbell’s 2 George Street colony must have looked like, Jack Mundey, imposed a
Storehouses Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, characterized by cobbled pave- con servation “green ban” on sight, including a map reference to
7–27 Circular Quay West; The Rocks. 432, 433, 434. ments, narrow side streets, The Rocks (see p33), temporar ily
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, the Street Finder (pp240–45).
halting all demolition and
warehouses, bond stores, pubs
432, 433, 434. 7 Formerly the preserve of and shop fronts that reflect the redevelopment work.
area’s maritime history. Even
wealthy merchants, sailors
In 1798, the Scottish merchant and the city’s working class, the Museum of Contemporary
Robert Campbell sailed into George Street today is a popular Art (see p75), constructed during 5 Sailors’ Home
Sydney Cove and soon attraction with visitors to the 1950s, began its life as the 106 George St, The Rocks.
established himself as a Sydney, who are drawn to its Maritime Services Board’s Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer,
founding father of commerce restaurants, art galleries, administration offices. 339, 340, 431, 432, 433, 434.
for the new colony. With trade museums, jewellery stores In the early 1970s, union Open to gallery customers only:
links already established in and craft souvenir shops. For workers placed “green bans” on 9am–7pm daily (to 10pm Thurs–Sat;
Calcutta, his business memento and gift shopping the demolition of The Rocks (see to 8.30pm Sun)
blossomed. In 1839, Campbell it is ideal, with few mass- p33). These streets had been
began constructing a private produced and tacky items, con sidered slum areas by the Built in 1864 to provide cheap
wharf and stores to house the and many unique pieces, government of the day. However lodgings for visiting seamen, the The visitors’ checklist
tea, sugar, spirits and cloth he as well as a great deal in the many of the buildings in George Sailors’ Home is now used as an
imported from India. Twelve way of modern Australian craft Street were restored and are art gallery. The building’s original
sandstone bays had been built of a very high calibre. now listed by the National Trust. north wing is Romanesque
by 1861 and a brick upper One of Sydney’s original The Rocks remains a vibrant part Revival in design. The L-shaped provides all the practical
storey was added in about 1890. thoroughfares – some say of the city, with George Street at wing that fronts onto George
Part of the old sea wall and 11 Australia’s first street – it ran from its hub. A market is held here Street was added in 1926.
of the original stores still remain. the main water supply, the Tank every weekend, when part of Old-style Australian products at the corner shop, Susannah Place At the time it was built, the information needed to plan
The area soon took on the Stream, to the tiny community the street is closed off to traffic Sailors’ Home was a welcome
name of Campbell’s Cove, in the Rocks, and was known as (see p203). history of the The Rocks, examines this working-class alternative to the many seedy
which it retains to this day. Spring Street. In 1810 it was including displays on its first domestic history, evoking the inns and brothels in the area, your visit.
Today, the bond stores renamed in honour of George III. 3 The Rocks Aboriginal inhabitants, the living conditions of its inhabi- saving sailors from the perils
contain several harbourside George Street today runs all the Discovery Museum Cadigal people, and Sydney’s tants. Rather than re-creating a of “crimping”. “Crimps” would
restaurants catering for a range way from the Harbour Bridge to maritime history and traditions single period, the museum tempt newly arrived men into
of tastes, from contemporary the Central Railway Station 2–6 Kendall Lane, The Rocks. in the 18th and 19th centuries. retains the many renovations lodgings and bars providing
to Chinese and Italian. It is a north of Chinatown. Map 1 B2. Tel 9240 8680.  Circular A unique collection of made by successive tenants. much-sought-after entertain-
delightful area in which to Many 19th-century buildings Quay. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, 432, arch aeological artifacts, such as Built for Edward and Mary ment. While drunk, the sailors
relax with a meal and watch remain, such as the 1844 433, 434. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. an illegal alcohol still, and Riley, who arrived from Ireland would be sold on to departing
the bustling boats in the Counting House at No. 43, the Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. hist orical images dating from the with their niece Susannah in ships, waking miles out at sea
harbour go by. The pulleys that Old Police station at No. 127 ∑ therocks.com early establishment 1838, these solid and returning home in debt.
were used to raise cargo from (1882), and the Russell Hotel at of the European houses have Sailors used the home until
the wharf can still be seen on No. 143 (1887). This museum is in a restored colony to the basement kitchens 1980, when it was adapted SY DNEY OPER A HOUSE  77
76  SY DNEY AREA B Y AREA
the outside, near the top of But it is The Rocks end that 1850s sandstone coach house, postwar era, helps and back yard for use as a puppet theatre.
the building. most reflects what the early and has exhibitions on the visitors explore outhouses. The house is now home to the
the eventful and Connections to Billich Gallery, a privately owned
r Sydney Opera House
colourful history Billy Tea on sale at the Susannah piped water and art gallery. In the basement is . Concert Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of this neighbour- Place shop sewerage had the Sailors Thai restaurant (see This is the largest
hood. The displays probably arrived p187), one of Sydney’s top hall, with seating for Practical Information
No building on earth looks like the Sydney Opera House.
are enhanced by interactive by the mid-1850s. The museum dining spots. 2,679. It is used for Bennelong Point. Map 1 C2. Tel
Popularly known as the “Opera House” long before the building
high-tech touch screens and sur veys the houses’ was complete, it is, in fact, a complex of theatres and halls linked symphony, choral, jazz, 9250 7111. Box Office: 9250 7777.
folk and pop concerts,
Open per formances. 7 limited
audiovisual exhibits, bringing development over the years, beneath its famous shells. Its birth was long and complicated. chamber music, opera, (9250 7777). 8 9am–5pm daily
the history of the area alive. from wood and coal to gas and Many of the construction problems had not been faced before, dance and everything (except Good Fri, 25 Dec); phone in
electricity, which enables the from body building to advance (9250 7250). & 0 -
4 Susannah Place visitor to gauge the gradual resulting in an architectural adventure which lasted 14 years fashion parades. = ∑ sydneyoperahouse.com
(see p79). An appeal fund was set up, eventually raising
lightening of the burden of
Museum domestic labour. $900,000, while the Opera House Lottery raised the balance Transport
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. The terrace, including a of the $102 million final cost. As well as being the city’s most @ Sydney Explorer, 324,
Map 1 B2. Tel 9241 1893.  Circular cor ner grocer’s shop, escaped popular tourist attraction, the Sydney Opera House is also one . Dame Joan 438, 440. g Circular Quay.
Quay, Wynyard. @ Sydney Explorer, the wholesale demolitions that of the world’s busiest performing arts centres. Sutherland Theatre  Circular Quay.
431, 432, 433, 434. Open 2–5pm daily. occurred after the outbreak of Mainly used for opera and ballet,
Closed Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 8 bubonic plague in 1900, as well this 1,507-seat theatre is big
as later clearings of land to Dining under the Sails
such as Verdi’s Aida.
This 1844 terrace of four brick make way for the Sydney enough to stage grand operas The restaurant at the top of the
and sandstone houses has a Harbour Bridge and the Cahill Monumental Steps is one of several bar and
rare history of continuous Expressway. In the 1970s, it was dining offerings in the famous building.
domestic occupancy from the saved once again when the
The museum now housed here
under the leadership of activist
Umbrellas shade the terrace restaurants overlooking the waterfront at Campbell’s Storehouses 1840s right through to 1990. Builders Labourers’ Feder ation, Interior of the Sailors’ Home, viewed from
an upper level
Detail of The Possum Dreaming (1988)
068-069_EW_Sydney.indd All Pages The mural in the Dame Joan Sutherland Theatre’s
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northern foyer is by Michael Tjakamarra Nelson,
an indigenous Australian painter from Papunga,
in the central Australian desert.
Opera House Walkway
Extensive public walkways
around the building offer
the visitor views from many
different vantage points.
KEY
1 The Dame Joan Sutherland . The Roofs
Theatre ceiling and walls are painted Although apoc ryphal, the theory that Jørn
black to focus attention on the stage. Utzon’s arched roof design came to him while
2 The Monumental Steps and Northern Foyers peeling an orange is appealing. The highest
point is 67 m (221 ft) above sea level.
forecourt are used for outdoor With spectacular views over the
performances. harbour, the Utzon Room and
3 The Playhouse, seating almost the large northern foyers of the Detail of Utzon’s Tapestry (2004)
Dame Joan Sutherland Theatre
Jørn Utzon’s original design for this Gobelin-
400, is ideal for intimate productions and Concert Hall can be hired style tapestry, which hangs floor to ceiling in
while also able to present plays with for conferences, lunches, parties the remodelled Utzon Room, was inspired by
larger casts.
and weddings. the music of Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.
Detailed information 076-077_EW_Sydney.indd All Pages 28/05/2015 12:04
3on each sight
All the important sights in Stars indicate the features
no visitor should miss.
Sydney are described
indi vidually. They are listed in
order, following the numbering Sydney’s top sights Museums and
on the area map. Addresses 4galleries have colour­coded floorplans
and practical informa tion are to help you locate the most interesting
provided. The key to the symbols exhibits; historic buildings are dissected
used is on the back flap. to reveal their interiors.
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