Page 77 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2016 - Austria
P. 77

INNER  C I ty      75


       c Kapuzinerkirche                       b Kärntner Strasse
       and Kaisergruft                         Map 2 B5, C4, C5. % Stephansplatz,
                                               Karlsplatz. @ 1A, 2A, 3A.
       Neuer Markt. Map 2 C5. Tel 51 26 853.
       % Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz. @ 2A.      v 1, 2, 62, 71, D.
       Open 10am–6pm daily. &
                                               Kärntner Strasse was once
                                               the main road running south
       The Capuchin church stands              across town to Kärnten
       at the southwestern corner of           (Carinthia), hence its name.
       Neuer Markt, formerly a cereal            Today, the view down the
       and flour market. In 1617,              street is blocked at its Ring end
       Anna of Tyrol, wife of Emperor          by the silhouette of the opera
       Matthias, founded a crypt in its        house, and at the Stock-im-
       vaults in which the Habsburg            Eisen-Platz end by the modern
       family members were laid to rest.       Haas-Haus, which reflects the
       Today, the Kaisergruft (imperial        spires of the Stephansdom. At
       crypt) contains the earthly   Grand stairway in the Winterpalais    Stock-im-Eisen-Platz there is a
       remains of 138 family members.   des Prinzen Eugen  wooden block into which every
       The only Habsburg monarchs              passing apprentice ironworker
       not present are Ferdinand II,   v Winterpalais des   used to drive a nail, in the
       whose vast tomb-mausoleum    Prinzen Eugen   hope that this would ensure
       is in Graz, and Charles I, the last     his safe return.
       Austrian emperor who died in   Himmelpfortgasse 8. Map 2 C5.      In the mid-section, at No. 37,
       exile and is buried on Madeira.   Tel 51 433. % Stephansplatz. @ 2A.   stands the Malteserkirche
                           v 2. Open 10am–6pm daily.
       The only non-Habsburg buried            (Church of the Knights of Malta).
       here is Maria Theresa’s governess,      The Maltese Knights came to
       Countess Caroline Fuchs.  The palace was commissioned in   Vienna in the early 13th century,
         The double sarcophagus of   1694, by Prince Eugene of Savoy,   and the church remains under
       Maria Theresa and her husband   one of the most brilliant military   their jurisdiction to this day.
       Franz Stephan I, the work of   commanders of his day, who   The church walls display the
       Balthasar Ferdinand Moll, is   entrusted the task to Johann   coats of arms of the Grand
       worth looking at. It bears   Bernhard Fischer von Erlach.   Masters of the Maltese Order.
       the statues of the imperial   It was subsequently     Malteserkirche is one of
       couple and four figures   extended by Johann Lukas   the few older buildings in the
       with the crowns of Austria,   von Hildebrandt. Its central   street. When Kärntner Strasse
       Hungary, Bohemia and   part includes the original   was widened during the
       Jerusalem (the Habsburgs   magnificent staircase,   19th century, to transform it
       were also the titular    adorned with sculp-  into the old town’s main artery,
       Kings of Jerusalem).      tures by Giovanni   most of the buildings were
         The most poignant       Giuliani. The central   demolished.
       tomb is the crypt of      portal reliefs depict     Today, the pedestrianized
       Franz Joseph I, where   Tomb of Karl VI, by   the figure of Aeneas   street is one of Vienna’s most
       the long-lived monarch   Balthasar Moll  carrying his father   fashionable and expensive
       rests, flanked by separate   out of the burning   shopping streets. Here, you can
       tombs containing the remains   city of Troy, and the hero Hercules   shop at one of many exclusive
       of his wife Elisabeth, assassi nated   who is slaying a monster.  boutiques, eat and drink in
       by an Italian anarchist, and their     From 1848 until 2006, the   busy restaurants, bars and
       only son Crown Prince Rudolf,   palace was home to the Ministry   outdoor cafés, and listen to
       who committed suicide in 1889.  of Finance. After extensive   street musicians or just watch
         The last person to be buried in   renovation, the palace today   others stroll by.
       the imperial crypt was Archduke   houses the Baroque
       Otto, son of Charles I, the last   collection of the Belvedere
       Emperor of Austria, who was   (see pp102–3).
       interred in 1989.     Nearby, at Seilerstätte
         It is worth noting that, on   No. 30, is the Haus der
       their death, the Habsburgs    Musik (House of Music). This
       were dismembered; their    is a museum dedicated to
       hearts are kept in silver urns    the Wiener Philharmoniker
       in Augustinerkirche (see p74),   (Vienna Philharmonic), it
       their entrails are held in the   also houses a high-tech
       catacombs of Stephansdom    exhibi tion on the nature
       (see pp62–3), and only what   of sound, which allows
       remained is in the Kaisergruft   visitors to see and feel as
       (imperial crypt).   well as hear music.  Frauenhuber, a café near Kärntner Strasse




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