Page 107 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 9: The Garden of England 105

RYE R. Rother

Lime Kiln
Camber Martello Cottage
Castle Tower
Castle
Farm Barns
Ternery
Pool
Winchelsea Nook
Beach Mary Stanford
Lifeboat House Above Camber Sands has an award-winning
dune-backed beach
Ry e Ba y
0 kilometres 1 EAT AND DRINK
0 miles 1
RYE
The Ship Inn moderate
roundabout, and take the first exit the road. Turn right here back to the Laid back quayside pub with eclectic
decor, roaring fires in winter and great
past the Bridge Inn. Then, turn first car park by the Martello Tower 5, one seasonal food. Ten en-suite rooms and
left up the steep Strand Hill under of a series of 74 bastions built along breakfast buffet available too.
Strand Gate into Winchelsea 3. the south coast between 1805–08 The Strand, TN31 7DB; 01797 222 233;
Overlooking the wetlands and sea during the Napoleonic Wars. www.theshipinnrye.com
below, tiny Winchelsea is laid out in ª Return to Rye, take A268 through Webbes at the Fish Cafe moderate
the manner of a medieval Bastide the town centre, forking right onto The best seafood restaurant in town –
town (from Southwest France) – on a B2082 to Tenterden. Park free for 2 hours try the steamed selection of fish with
shellfish – serves meat dishes, too.
grid pattern divided into quarters at the supermarket just before town. Tower Street, TN31 7AT; 01797 222 226;
with wide streets. With little modern www.webbesrestaurants.co.uk
development, it feels as if nothing has 9 Tenterden AROUND TENTERDEN
changed since it was first designed by Kent; TN30 6AN
Edward I in 1288, following a series of On the road to town, after a series West House moderate
Eat Romney lamb and crème brulée
storms in which Old Winchelsea all but of sharp bends, stop at Smallhythe with rhubarb at this excellent Michelin-
disappeared. At the town’s centre is the Place (open Mar–Oct: Sat–Wed; www. starred restaurant in Biddenden.
large Church of St Thomas the Martyr. nationaltrust.org.uk), home of the 28 High Street, Biddenden, TN27 8AH;
Half ruined, its great chancel now actress Ellen Terry (1847–1928). 01580 291 341; www.thewesthouse
serves as the nave, with brilliant Dating from the 16th century, this restaurant.co.uk; closed Mon
stained-glass windows, including one pretty half-timbered house and
to the victims of the 1928 Rye lifeboat cottage garden was the actress’s Below The restored Kent & East Sussex Light
disaster. A feature of Winchelsea’s home for nearly 30 years. Railway Station, Tenterden
houses is their enormous cellars: look Also on the way, look out for award-
out for the stone steps leading to these winning Chapel Down Vineyard, the
vaulted undercrofts where wine was country’s biggest producer of English
stored; tours are arranged on various wine (tours Mar–Nov; book in advance
dates between April and mid-October on 01580 766 111).
(www.winchelsea.com). In the handsome town of
Return down to the roundabout Tenterden, browse the antiques
and back down Sea Road. Past the shops and upmarket boutiques, and
Castle Farm barns, just after the step back in time at the Kent & East
footpath begins, follow the signs left, Sussex Light Railway Station (www.
along the track to Camber Castle 4, kesr.org.uk) which runs steam and
a ruined 16th-century fort. Take the classic trains to Bodiam and hosts
path forking right that skirts the Castle themed weekends several times
Water. This is another great spot for throughout the year.
seeing more birdlife. Follow the path ª Drive through Tenterden turning
sharp left towards the road, then right, left on the A28, signed to Ashford, then
between the ponds and back onto forking left on the A262 to Sissinghurst.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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