Page 128 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
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126 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


                                                              Stiffkey Blues
                                                        Local cockles known as “Stewkey
                                                        Blues” have been harvested on the
                                                        Stiffkey marshes for generations.
                                                        Their blue colour comes from their
                                                        anaerobic mud habitat. Often used
                                                        in fancy restaurant dishes, they are
                                                        best from a seafood stall, smothered
                                                        in vinegar and eaten on the beach.
                                                       & Thu; park open daily; www.holkham.
                                                       co.uk) is a fabulous Palladian-style
                                                       country seat amid a deer park, home
                                                       to Viscount and Viscountess Coke
                                                       (pronounced “Cook”). It houses a
                                                       treasury of statues, Old Masters,
                                                       antiques and tapestries. The Statue
                                                       Gallery contains one of the finest
       Above Lobster and crab boats at the quayside    private collections of classical
       Wells-next-the-Sea      0 Wells-next-the-Sea    sculpture, including a statue of
                                Norfolk; NR23 1AN      Diana and a bust of Thucydides
                               A popular resort town, Wells got its   from the 4th century BC. A notice
        WHERE TO STAY          name from the many clear springs in   on the piano on the way in invites
                               the area. Today, as a result of silting, it   able musicians to sit down and play.
       WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA      is more “near” than “next” the sea –   The hall was a setting in the film The
       Globe Inn moderate–expensive   vessels must sail some way up inlets   Duchess, starring Keira Knightley and
       Eighteen bright and airy en-suite rooms   to berth here, but the   Ralph Fiennes.
       are available in this refurbished inn. The
       breakfast menu includes Cley smoked   harbour is still a great   ª Carry on A149, then left
       haddock with poached egg, and there   attraction. Stroll up to the   on B1155. Park on-street.
       are good-value bar snacks all day.   grassy Georgian square
       The Buttlands, N23 1EU;  01328 710 206;   known as the Buttlands   q Burnham Market
       www.theglobeatwells.co.uk   for a drink in either of the   Norfolk; NR23 1AB
       Victoria Hotel moderate–expensive  village inns, the Crown    Away from the coast, enjoy
       A historic hotel on the edge of the   or the Globe, or buy a   the fine Georgian cottages
       Holkham Estate, this has real-ale bars   picnic from the Wells Deli   bookended by two small
       on the ground floor and an upmarket
       restaurant. Some of the 10 en-suite   and head for the beach.   churches in this riverside
       rooms have views over the marshes.   Travel in style on the tiny,   town, known as “Chelsea on
       There are also three glorious self-  narrow-gauge steam or   Wells-next-the-Sea   Sea”. Browse the hat and
       catering lodges available.   diesel Wells Harbour   village sign  dress shops, art gallery,
       Park Road, NR23 1RG; 01328 711 008;
       www.holkham.co.uk       Railway (seasonal service). The   jewellers, fish shop and
                               beautiful sands are backed by   delicatessen, then have a deserved
       BURNHAM MARKET          expansive dunes and cooling pines.  drink at the handsome Hoste Arms.
       The Nelson inexpensive–moderate  Just west, neighbouring Holkham   ª Head north on the B1355, then turn
       This pub has seven decent bedrooms   Hall Estate (hall open Apr–Oct Sun, Mon   left on A149.
       with en-suite shower rooms in the
       heart of this lovely village. There are
       hearty breakfasts and bar meals that
       make use of local ingredients.
       Creake Road, PE31 8EN; 01328 738 321;
       www.the-nelson.com
       HUNSTANTON
       Neptune Inn expensive
       There are four pleasant en-suite
       rooms at this handsome 18th-century
       coaching inn. The Michelin-starred
       restaurant uses mainly Norfolk
       ingredients in the restaurant and bar.
       85 Old Hunstanton Road, PE36 6HZ;
       01485 532 122; www.theneptune.co.
       uk; closed Mon
              Right Creek into the harbour at
                   Wells-next-the-Sea
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


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