Page 176 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

174 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Peak District Pubs
Snug old stone pubs are among
the jewels of the Peak District, and
many provide well-priced food. As
well as the Manifold Inn (see p173),
other pubs to look out for are
Smith’s Tavern and the historic
Green Man & Black’s Head Royal
Hotel (see p172) in Ashbourne, the
Bluebell Inn in Tissington near Ilam,
the Old Nag’s Head and the Rambler
Inn in Edale, the Cheshire Cheese in
Hope near Castleton, the Miners
Arms in Eyam and the Plough Inn,
Above Glorious Chatsworth Park, created by just south of Hathersage.
“Capability” Brown in the 1760s 6 Hathersage
Derbyshire; S32 1DD
On the drive down the Hope Valley, 8 Chatsworth
a dramatic wall of red rock, Stanage Derbyshire; DE45 1PP
Edge, is visible to the northeast of One of the grandest of Britain’s great
WHERE TO STAY Hathersage. Head up to the “Edge” houses and a model of 18th-century
from town for fabulous views – elegance, the Palladian mansion of
EYAM many walking paths begin near Chatsworth (open daily) has been home
Innisfree Cottage inexpensive Hathersage’s tranquil 14th-century to the Dukes and Duchesses of
The informative hosts in this peaceful
and sunny cottage offer three rooms. church. In the churchyard lies Little Devonshire since the early 1700s. Truly
The breakfast menu has omelettes, John’s Grave where, according to palatial, the house has sumptuous
Derbyshire oatcakes and bagels; local legend, Robin Hood’s best friend furnishings and works of art, but is
packed lunches are also available. is buried. Off the village’s main road is made still more magnificent by its
Tideswell Lwane, S32 5RD; 01433 631 the Round Building, the workshop setting, as the centrepiece of a majestic
055; www.innisfreecottage.co.uk
and shop of the celebrated cutlery park created by “Capability” Brown in
AROUND EYAM designer David Mellor (1930–2009). the 1760s with huge formal gardens,
Bretton Cottage moderate ª Take B6001 through Grindleford, fountains, a maze and cascading
This distinctive guesthouse in a then right (B6521) to Eyam. Follow signs waterworks. There’s also an adventure
17th-century hillside farmhouse, off to Eyam museum for large car park. playground, shops, a farmyard,
Sir William Hill Road just north of Eyam,
offers huge rooms with sitting areas restaurants and exhibitions. Opposite
and stunning views. The organic break- 7 Eyam the Chatsworth entrance, Edensor is a
fasts are substantial, too. Minimum Derbyshire; S32 5QP pretty model village, built in the 1830s
two-night stay in high season. Eyam became famous as an amazing when the then Duke decided the
Bretton, near Eyam, S32 5QD; 01433 example of self-sacrifice. In 1665, original Edensor village was too close.
631 076; www.peakholidayhomes.com
when the Great Plague was raging in ª Turn right from Chatsworth, back
AROUND CHATSWORTH London, the disease also took hold of towards Baslow, then left on a road
Bubnell Cliff Farm inexpensive Eyam. The village agreed to cut off all signed for Pilsley and Bakewell (B6048).
Enjoy two characterful rooms with large contact with the outside world until Turn left again onto A619 into Bakewell.
bathrooms and lovely views on all sides the plague had run its course, to avoid Use pay car park off main street.
in this homely farmhouse B&B in Baslow
off the A619 on the edge of the infecting the surrounding villages.
Chatsworth estate. As usual in the Peaks, They maintained this for nearly a year, Below The church at Eyam, a village decimated
generous breakfasts of hearty farm during which 257 people died. The during the Great Plague of 1665
produce make a great start to the day. story is told in the Eyam Museum
Wheatlands Lane, Baslow, near (late Mar–Oct: open Tue–Sun) and
Bakewell, DE45 1RF; 01246 582 454;
www.bubnellcliff.co.uk through monuments around the
village, such as the Riley Graves, where
AROUND HADDON HALL all seven of the Hancock family were
East Lodge Hotel and buried in a field. Despite this grim
Restaurant expensive history, today Eyam is a charming
In Rowsley, off the A6, south of Haddon
Hall, this fine old house has been village of old stone houses. The
beautifully restored with a blend of imposing mansion of Eyam Hall (for
country-house and modern boutique- opening times, see eyamhall.net) hosts a
hotel style. It has just 12 sumptuous craft centre (open Tue–Sun).
rooms and the gourmet restaurant,
looking out onto the gardens, provides ª Take the B6521 south and then the
seasonal modern menus to match. A623 left to Baslow, where Chatsworth
Rowsley, Matlock, DE4 2EF; 01629 734 is well signposted. The B6012 leads
474; www.eastlodge.com through the Chatsworth estate.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
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