Page 193 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 18: North Yorkshire Moors and Coast 191

back via the 5-km (3-mile) Rail Trail. Its
other claim to fame is as the setting for
popular UK TV drama series Heartbeat.
ª Leave on Front Street, turning left at
Sleights on A169 and right onto A171.
Veer left onto Prospect Hill and take
3rd exit at the roundabout for seafront.
7 Whitby
North Yorks; YO21 1YN
Visually dramatic, the buzzing fishing
port and resort of Whitby clings to the
hills on the banks of the River Esk, its
hilltop abbey ruins silhouetted against
the sky. Other architectural highlights Above Ruins of Whitby Abbey, as seen from
include fine Georgian houses and Cleveland Way (www.clevelandway.co.uk). the busy fishing centre of Whitby
humbler white fishermen’s cottages, And why not catch a fish supper on
linked by ginnels (alleys). Whitby the high seas with a half-day fishing SHOPPING IN WHITBY
Abbey (open daily) was founded by St trip (01947 605 342 or 0786 624 992; Whitby Jet
Hilda in AD 655, but today’s ruins are www.whitbyfishingtrips.co.uk). Mourning for Prince Albert, Queen
the 13th-century buildings destroyed ª Head inland, turning right on the Victoria set a fashion for lustrous
by Henry VIII and further damaged by A174 through Sandsend and right to black jet jewellery. Whitby’s shore
German battleships in 1914. Staithes; use the pay-and- proved a rich source of this beautiful
Sharing the wind swept display car park. gemstone. Buy it from Whitby Jet
Heritage Centre and W Hamond
hillside is St Mary’s Church (both on Church Street).
(open daily) and its graveyard, 8 Staithes Whitby Kippers
reached by 199 steps. The North Yorks; TS13 5BH W R Fortunes (22 Henrietta Street)
two edifices provided a As a young man, the produces delicious kippered herrings,
dramatic setting in Bram explorer James Cook (1728– smoked using oak and beech shavings.
Stoker’s Gothic vampire 79) once worked in the
novel Dracula (1897). Leeds- draper’s shop in this fishing
born artist Frank Sutcliffe set Whitby fudge village, and it is here that he EAT AND DRINK
up a studio in Whitby in 1876, shop sign first dreamt of becoming a sea
taking photos of fishermen, captain and navigator. Still AROUND PICKERING
farmers, ships and moorland. See ringed by cliffs offering spectacular Willowgate Bistro moderate
his work at the Sutcliffe Gallery, walks, this pretty harbour village has Husband and wife team offer dishes
(Flowergate; www.sutcliffe-gallery.co.uk). probably changed little to this day. The such as twice-baked cheese soufflé,
and venison with chocolate sauce.
It’s a short walk to Sandsend which dramatic Boulby Cliffs, the highest on Willowgate, YO18 7BE; 01751 467 300;
has a nice, sandy beach and plenty of England’s east coast, lie to the north. www.willowgatebistro.co.uk
surf; or a longer one to family-friendly ª Go west on the A174. Turn left at Eas- WHITBY
Robin Hood’s Bay; or just climb up ington on a minor road to the A171. Turn
past the Abbey and explore the right and follow signs to Guisborough. Elizabeth Botham & Sons inexpensive
This family-run teahouse is delightfully
old fashioned. Choose a speciality tea
Below Yorkshire, moors and coast, driving over the Rosedale Chimney Bank to wash down gingerbread with
Wensleydale cheese or plum bread.
35 Skinner Street, YO21 3AH; 01947
602 823; www.botham.co.uk
Humble Pie and Mash inexpensive
An array of homemade pies, including
sausage and black pudding, homity,
and steak and stout, plus puddings
such as Jam Roly Poly, are served up
in this 17th-century building.
163 Church Street, YO22 4AS; 01947 606
444; www.humblepie.tccdev.com
Magpie inexpensive–moderate
This Whitby portside institution serves
tip-top fish dishes, including oysters,
chowders, prawn cocktail and Whitby
crab – it can get busy at lunchtime.
14 Pier Road, YO21 3PU; 01947 602
058; www.magpiecafe.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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