Page 56 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

54 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

8 Mortehoe
Devon; EX34 7DT
This is one of the most spectacular stretches of the South West
Coast Path, England’s longest National Trail. A footpath leads along
the clifftops from Mortehoe over grassy slopes to Morte Point. In the
ancient village of Mortehoe, mentioned in the Domesday Book, a
handful of pubs and tearooms cluster around the picturesque
13th-century St Mary’s Church, and just around a headland
is the golden sandy beach of Woolacombe.
Above St Mary’s Church, Mortehoe, with A two-hour clifftop walk headland, Baggy Point, and beyond.
graves of shipwrecked sailors Start at the pay-and-display car park at Lundy Island is visible out to sea
the end of Station Road and visit the 27 km (17 miles) away and the South
VISITING BARNSTAPLE Mortehoe Museum 1 (open Easter– Wales coast is just discernible. Walk
Oct: Tue–Thu, Sat–Sun; also Jul–Aug: Mon) along the clifftop towards Morte
Parking to learn about the history of the area. Point, watching the waves crash
Green Lanes Shopping Centre, Exit the car park, turn left towards onto jagged slate rocks. Just past the
Boutport Street, EX31 1UL. the church passing the Post Office aptly named Windy Cove 3, sticking
Tourist Information and Village Store – good for provisions. out of the sea, is Morte Stone (Death
The Square, EX32 8LN; 01271 346 747; Go through the Victorian lych gate Stone), a reminder of the dangers of
www.staynorthdevon.co.uk for a look inside St Mary’s Church 2. the rocky reef. In the winter of 1852,
Though the entrance porch dates five ships were sadly lost off this
WHERE TO STAY from around 1500, the barrel-roofed most treacherous coast. Continue
nave and chancel were built during to Morte Point 4 itself, and rest on
MORTEHOE the 13th century. The square belfry, one of the white boulders to admire
Town Farmhouse inexpensive which houses six bells, dates from the seascape – look out for seals
Former farm B&B opposite the church. 1275. Much of the decoration is on the rocks below. Follow the path
EX34 7DT; 01271 870 204; www.
townfarmhouse.co.uk; open Mar–Oct Victorian; the pretty stained-glass around the point to go eastwards.
windows were re-glazed at this time. Turn inland at the sign to Mortehoe
WOOLACOMBE To the right of the church a sign and return via a wide grassy path. For
Woolacombe Bay expensive points to the coastal path. Walk to a short detour, walk up to the 137-m
Large seafront hotel overlooking the the left of the village cemetery along (450-ft) viewpoint (signed on left)
beach with plenty of sporting facilities.
EX34 7BN; 01271 870 388; www. the path fringed with bracken and and the megalithic tomb, known as
woolacombe-bay-hotel.co.uk gorse. Over a sheep-dotted hillside, the Cromlech, nearby. Finally, retrace
the path drops sharply down to a your steps back to the village for a
BARNSTAPLE stream where it meets the 1,000-km cream tea or a glass of heady local
Royal & Fortescue Hotel moderate (630-mile) South West Coast Path scrumpy cider.
Former coaching inn, centrally situated,
with restaurant, bistro and cafe-bar. running along the clifftop. ª Follow signs along a narrow seaside
Boutport Street, EX31 1HG; 01271 342 There are views past Woolacombe road to Woolacombe and park in the
289; www.royalfortescue.co.uk south across Morte Bay to the next beach car park.
Below The road down to lovely Woolacombe Bay,
0 metres 500
Rockham North Devon
0 yards 500 Bay

Windy
Cove
NORTH MOR T E R OAD
Morte Morte
Stone Point
St Mary’s
Church MORTEHOE STATION RD
Mortehoe
Museum
Grunta Beach

Barricane Beach

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–150; expensive, over £150

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