Page 62 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

60 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Swanage Lawrence of Arabia in Dorset
Dorset; BH19 1LB T E Lawrence – dubbed “Lawrence
This is a quintessential Victorian resort of Arabia” for his World War I exploits
with a seafront promenade, Punch – spent his post-war life in quiet
Dorset. See his effigy in Wareham
and Judy shows and a fine sandy and cottage at Clouds Hill (late
beach that curves around Swanage Mar–late Oct: open Thu–Sun). From
Bay. For something wilder, head 7 km here, it’s possible to walk to the site
(4 miles) north to Studland Bay – the of his fatal motorbike crash, to his
tourist office by the beach has maps grave in Moreton and to Bovington
for walkers, or take bus no. 50 from Camp where he briefly served –
now a tank museum (open daily).
Shore Road. The town is not without
interest either. The stone façade of
the Town Hall, built 1833, was taken 3 Corfe Castle
from the Mercers’ Hall in London Dorset; BH20 5EZ
(designed by Christopher Wren) when The silhouette of the crumbling
it was being remodelled – notice the castle ruins (open daily) that dominate
cherubs holding cloths for this village presents a truly romantic
the Virgin Mary. Board a vista. This once mighty
Above The pretty stone-quarrying town of Swanage Railway (Apr– Norman bastion owes
Worth Matravers Oct) steam train for a visit its present decrepit
to Corfe Castle. state to the English Civil
ª Leave on A351, left on War (1641–51), when
VISITING SWANAGE
B3069 and left to Worth Lawrence of Arabia, Lady Bankes defended
Parking Matravers. Park behind pub. Wareham it against Parliamentarian
There’s a short-stay car park behind the troops, who finally blew
tourist office, on Horsecliffe Lane, off 2 Worth Matravers the castle up after a six-week siege.
Victoria Avenue. There’s also a longer Dorset; BH19 3LF ª Carry on along the A351, then take
stay car park on Victoria Avenue (A351).
This tiny village’s attractions include B3075, signposted Stoborough, for
Tourist Information The Square and Compass pub (see Wareham. Car park is on right over river.
The White House, Shore Road, right), inspiring views (can be enjoyed
BH19 1LB; 01929 766 018; 4 Wareham
www.swanage.gov.uk from the pub’s outdoor tables), and a
graceful Norman church, St Nicholas. Dorset; BH20 4LU
Dating from the late 12th century, the Located on the River Frome close to
WHERE TO STAY church has a wood-beamed roof and the sea, Wareham was an important
SWANAGE a jagged chancel arch. This is a great port in Saxon times. Now a pretty
Grand Hotel Swanage moderate place to enjoy a walk along the South backwater, it preserves the layout of
This old-fashioned Victorian palace has West Coast Path, starting on one of its old town walls. St Martin’s Church
terrific views over the Bay, a splendid the footpaths that radiate from the also has much of its Saxon structure,
lawn and a cocktail lounge. village to the coast on either side. medieval frescoes and a romantic
Burlington Road, BH19 1LU; 01929 423 ª Turn left out of the car park, then effigy of T E Lawrence (see box above).
353; www.grandhotelswanage.co.uk
left onto the B3069 to A351, then left Hire a rowing boat or kayak at the
AROUND WAREHAM to Corfe village, castle and car park. bridge and enjoy a river trip from
Kemps Country House expensive
West of Wareham, off the A352, this Below The historic restored railway line at Swanage
former Victorian rectory offers clean,
modern and well-equipped rooms.
East Stoke, BH20 6AL (5 km/3 miles
on A352 and B3070 from Wareham);
01929 462 563; www.kempscountry
house.co.uk
WEYMOUTH
Hotel Rembrandt moderate
A 78-room hotel with restaurant, bar,
spa and indoor pool.
Dorchester Road, DT4 7JU; 01305 764
000; www.hotelrembrandt.co.uk
Roundhouse Hotel moderate
B&B with six rooms in a Georgian
town house facing the sea, with the
17th-century harbour just behind it.
1 The Esplanade, DT4 8EA; 01305 761
010; www.roundhouse-weymouth
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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