Page 70 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
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68 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


                                                       2 Old Sarum
                                                       Wiltshire; SP1 3SD
                                                       On a windswept hilltop, formidable
                                                       earthworks and scanty Norman
                                                       remains mark the site of Old Sarum
                                                       (open daily), an important settlement
                                                       that flourished from around 500 BC.
                                                       Occupied later by the Romans and
                                                       Saxons, it was then fortified by the
                                                       Normans who also built a cathedral
                                                       here in the 12th century. The site was
                                                       abandoned in the next century, when
                                                       Salisbury became the regional centre.
                                                       ª Turn left out of Old Sarum onto
                                                       the A345, then left onto A303. Turn
                                                       right onto A360 following signs for
                                                       Stonehenge visitor centre. A shuttle runs
                                                       between the car park and the stones.

                                                           The riddle of the stones
       Above Salisbury Cathedral, with the tallest      Composed of a ring of upright stones
       spire in the UK  Top right Narrowboat on the   1 Salisbury  topped with lintels, a horseshoe of
       Kennet and Avon Canal, Devizes  Bottom   Wiltshire; SP1 1EJ   trilithons (two uprights and a lintel),
       right Ruins of the Bishop’s Palace, Old Sarum  One of Britain’s great cathedralw cities,   and a ring of bluestones, Stonehenge
                               Salisbury has a compact centre that is   remains a mystery. Why was it built?
                                                        How were the stones moved here,
        VISITING SALISBURY     ideal for a leisurely stroll. Salisbury   some from as far away as the Preseli
                               Cathedral (open daily), built over a   Hills in Wales? The most extraordinary
       Parking
       The best car park in Salisbury is Central   period of just 38 years in the 13th   fact is that the whole complex was
       Car Park (signed) by the Playhouse.  century, is an unusually fine example of   built without any more sophisticated
                                                        tools than picks made from antlers
       Tourist Information     Early English Gothic. The soaring 123-m   and shovels made of bone.
       Fish Row, SP1 1EJ; 01722 342 860;   (404-ft) tower can be explored on a
       www.visitsalisbury.com   guided tour and the library holds an
                               original copy of Magna Carta. Learn   3 Stonehenge
                               more about the city’s history, as well   Wiltshire; SP4 7DE
        WHERE TO STAY
                               as that of Old Sarum and Stonehenge   England’s grandest and best preserved
       SALISBURY               in the Salisbury and South Wiltshire   stone circle appears dwarfed by the
       Cathedral View moderate  Museum (open Mon–Sat; daily Jun–Sep),   expanse of Salisbury Plain. Built in
       Welcoming B&B behind the Cathedral   behind the cathedral. Finally, take a   stages between 3,000 BC and 1,600
       and with views of it from the front   short stroll west of the cathedral to the   BC, the huge stones and earthworks
       rooms; all four rooms are en suite.    water meadows, to enjoy the classic   originally formed part of a much
       83 Exeter Street, SP1 2SE; 01722 502
       254; www.cathedral-viewbandb.co.uk  city views painted by John Constable.  larger complex. The exact function of
                               ª From the centre, head north on   Stonehenge (open daily) is obscure
       Red Lion Hotel moderate–expensive
       This characterful coaching inn dates   Castle Street onto the A345; park on site.  but, given the alignment of the stones
       back to the 17th century and is filled          relative to the rising and setting sun, it
       with curios and period pieces.     Below The huge, impressive Neolithic stone   is likely to have had an astronomical
       Milford Street, SP1 2AN; 01722 323 334;   complex at Stonehenge  and religious function. Its location at
       www.the-redlion.co.uk
       DEVIZES
       The Bear Hotel moderate
       This hotel has included royalty among
       its guests. Comfortable rooms, and live
       jazz or blues in the cellar at weekends.
       Market Place, SN10 1HS; 01380 722 444;
       www.thebearhoteldevizes.co.uk
       AVEBURY
       The Lodge expensive
       Wake amid the stones in this lovely
       18th-century vegetarian B&B. Only two
       rooms so book ahead.
       High Street, SN8 1RF; 01672 539 023;
       www.aveburylodge.co.uk
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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