Page 88 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
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86 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


                                                       6 West Wycombe
                                                       Bucks; HP14 3AH
                                                       West Wycombe’s main attractions are
                                                       found at West Wycombe Park (Apr–Aug:
                                                       open Sun–Thu; house open Jun–Aug; 01494
                                                       755 571; www.nationaltrust.org.uk). The
                                                       Italianate house is set in landscaped
                                                       gardens dotted with follies, statues and
                                                       ornamental lakes. The estate is also
                                                       home to the Hellfire Caves (Apr–Oct:
                                                       open daily; Nov–Mar: open Sat & Sun; 01494
                                                       533739; www.hellfirecaves.co.uk), excavated
                                                       in the 1740s on the orders of Sir
                                                       Francis Dashwood and running nearly
       Above The gardens and rear of Hughenden         1 km (over half a mile) underground.
       Manor, once Disraeli’s country home    5 Hughenden Manor   See the Gothic “church” entrance
                               High Wycombe, Bucks; HP14 4LA   and descend dank passages past
                               Time has not stood still at Hughenden   chambers with portrayals of members
        VISITING HENLEY-ON-THAMES
                               Manor, despite access up a steep,   of Dashwood’s infamous Hellfire Club
       Parking                 unpaved and rutted track (house,   (1749–60). The final destination is
       On the way in, follow signs to short-stay   gardens and park open daily all year, except   the “Inner Temple”. Here were held the
       parking (maximum three hours) on   Christmas; 01494 755 565; www.  bacchanals of the club, whose
       Market Street or Gray’s Road.  nationaltrust.org.uk). The country home   members included such luminaries as
       Tourist Information     of Queen Victoria’s trusted Prime   the then Prince of Wales, the Marquis
       Town Hall, Market Place, RG9 2AQ;   Minister Benjamin Disraeli (1804–81)   of Granby, and artist William Hogarth.
       01491 578 034
                               has seen some alterations, but a few   Despite tales of devil worship, the main
       Thames Cruise           rooms are as they would have been in   activities were probably drinking and
       To hire self-drive (or even chauffered)   “Dizzy’s” day. The gardens recreate an   pornography. Not suitable for anyone
       motor launches for trips along the river;
       or for a scheduled cruise, try Hobbs    original design by his wife, Mary Anne.   with claustrophobia, the caves are
       of Henley on Station Road (01491    Mementoes, books and paintings bring  reputed to be haunted by the spectre
       572 035; www.hobbsofhenley.com   the interior alive but low lighting, while   of a steward of the Hellfire Club who
                               kind to furnishings, can be less kind to   kept a tally of drinks consumed. On
        WHERE TO STAY          eyes. There are some beautiful walks in   the hilltop above the caves stand the
                               the surrounding parkland with   imposing Dashwood Mausoleum and
       AROUND WEST WYCOMBE     glorious views of the countryside.   the distinctive Church of St Lawrence,
       Frog Inn moderate       ª Rejoin the A4128 towards High   its tower topped by a golden sphere
       Pretty family-run inn with attractive   Wycombe. In town, follow signs to    that is said to have served as a venue
       en-suite rooms and rural views. The inn
       is situated directly south of Fingest,   A40 west. Turn left at Pedestal round­  for covert meetings.
       close to Turville. Also serves good food.   about to West Wycombe. After village,   ª Take A40 through Piddington and
       Skirmett, RG9 6TG (8 km/5 miles west of   turn right, past caves entrance,    turn left, signed Bolter End. Take B482 to
       West Wycombe); 01491 638 996;    for free parking.  Fingest. It is possible to fork right here
       www.thefrogatskirmett.co.uk
                                                       for the pretty village and pub at Turville.
       HENLEY-ON-THAMES        Below The “Royal River” running through the heart   Otherwise turn right, then right again
       Loch Fyne Hotel moderate  of Henley-on-Thames    onto A4155 to Henley­on­Thames.
       In a listed, red brick former bakery
       above the Loch Fyne Bar and Grill
       (see right). Seven smallish, tasteful
       en-suite rooms. Kippers for breakfast!
       20 Market Place, RG9 2AH; 01491 845
       789; www.milsomshotel.co.uk
       Hotel du Vin moderate–expensive
       This boutique hotel, part of a small chain,
       has 43 luxurious rooms offering style,
       attention to detail and bistro cooking.
       New Street, RG92BP; 0844 736 4258;
       www.hotelduvin.com
       Red Lion Hotel expensive
       This red brick 16th-century inn by the
       bridge has 39 substantial, well-furnished
       rooms, some with river views.
       Hart Street, RG9 2AR; 01491 572 161;
       www.redlionhenley.co.uk
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


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