Page 99 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain
P. 99

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs  97
















                                                        Above left Traditional beach huts at sandy
       e Chichester            Fitzalan, 10th Earl of Arundel, with his   West Wittering  Above right Surfer
       West Sussex; PO19 1NB   wife, Eleanour of Lancaster, inspired   negotiating the pebbles at East Wittering
       This peaceful county town is centred   Philip Larkin’s 1956 poem An Arundel
       on a market cross from which North,   Tomb, which can be read alongside it.   EAT AND DRINK
       South, West and East streets radiate.   Finally, the Novium Museum (closed
       The Festival and Minerva Theatres   Sun Mar–Nov; 01243 775 888; www.  AROUND MIDHURST
       (www.cft.org.uk; 01243 781 312) are   thenovium.org), is a local history   Horse Guards Inn moderate
       renowned, and Pallant House Gallery   museum built above the remains of    Great pub serving locally sourced food,
       (closed Mon except Bank Hols), is a superb   a Roman bathhouse.  with a cosy, shabby-chic interior and an
       modern art gallery. Don’t miss   There’s also much to see just outside   idyllic garden with hay-bale seating and
                                                        deckchairs. Three rooms also available.
       Chichester Cathedral, consecrated in   Chichester. Head west on the A27 and   Upperton Road, Tillington, GU28 9AF;
       1108, with John Piper’s dramatic 1966   turn left on the A259 for the impressive   01798 342 332; www.thehorseguards
       altar tapestry and Marc Chagall’s   mosaics of Fishbourne Roman Palace   inn.co.uk; open daily lunch and dinner
       striking stained-glass window (1978).   (Feb–mid-Dec: open daily; mid-Dec–Jan:   CHICHESTER
       The recumbent figure of Richard   open Sat & Sun). Further along the A259   St Martin’s Organic Coffee House
                               lies Bosham, one of the many inlets of   inexpensive
                               Chichester Harbour. Bosham has a   Homemade snacks, soups and cakes
                               pretty Saxon church; the supposed   are served in this friendly café. There is
                               burial place of King Cnut’s daughter,   a garden and a nice log fire in winter.
                                                        3 St Martins Street, PO19 1NP; 01243 786
                               the church is depicted in the Bayeux   715; www.organiccoffeehouse.co.uk;
                               Tapestry and is one of the oldest   open in daytime only; closed Sun & Mon
                               Christian sites in Sussex. The harbour   Purchases Bar & Restaurant moderate
                               inlets are in an Area of Outstanding   Smart, but unpretentious, restaurant
                               Natural Beauty, one of the best boating   serving high end fare such as beef
                               areas on the south coast, so consider   Wellington and rabbit saddle.
                               taking a boat trip for the scenery or   31 North Street, PO19 1LX; 01243 771
                                                        444; www.purchasesrestaurant.co.uk;
                               birdlife (see left). Other inlets can be   closed Sun dinner
                               reached by heading south from
                               Chichester on the A286 to charming   AROUND CHICHESTER
                               Dell Quay and Itchenor. Finish a tour   Anchor Bleu inexpensive
                               of these wet flatlands with a walk on   Good, home-cooked food and real
                               the sandy beach at West Wittering    ales in a friendly pub with a terrace,
                                                        overlooking the harbour.
       Above The tapestry designed by John Piper,   or the more pebbly one at East   The High Street, Bosham, PO18 8LS;
       Chichester Cathedral    Wittering, a short drive to the south.  01243 573 956; www.anchorbleu.co.uk
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       up Ditchling Beacon 6 for views and   Follow the drive route in reverse.
        Explore the area from buzzy Brighton,   down to the village for tea.
        arty Lewes or pretty Arundel.                 Historic Waterland
                               Follow the drive route to Ditchling.  Explore Arundel 9 with its castle,
        Town and Country                              antiques shops and wetlands centre.
        Spend the morning in Brighton 5   Arts and crafts  Or head to Chichester e for the
        with its museums, arty shops,   In Lewes 4, browse the galleries   cathedral, ancient Roman mosaics and
        restaurants and exotic Royal Pavilion.   and crafts shops before heading over   a boat trip or a walk on the beach.
        There’s plenty for children, with a pier,   to Charleston and Berwick 3 to see
        aquarium and mini-railway. Then drive   the Bloomsbury circle’s art.   Follow the A27.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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