Page 159 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)
P. 159

Chitré and around The Azuero PeninsulA  157
       Parque Unión and around
       The cathedral is flanked by the formal gardens of Parque Unión. Neatly clipped
       flowerbeds and swaying palm trees around a stately bandstand provide the backdrop
       for a melding of modernity and tradition: young suited executives hold forth on their
       mobile phones while elderly campesinos in montunos and sombreros de junco – the
       traditional embroidered shirts and workday straw hats – discuss the local news. A
       two-block stroll east brings you to Parque Centenario, a more low-key affair,
       surrounded by squat red-tiled houses with wrought-iron grillwork.

       Museo de Herrera
       Parque Bandera, C Manuel María Correa • Mon–Sat 8am–4pm, Sun 9am–noon • $1
       Though quite modest (with captions only in Spanish), the Museo de Herrera, in an
       elegant converted colonial mansion and former post office, is probably the best
       museum outside Panama City. Downstairs focuses on the pre-Columbian era: a couple
       of fine ceremonial metates stand out, as well as the impressive collection of ceramics.
       A reproduction burial chamber shows a life-size model cacique decked out in his gold
       arm- and leg bands, while copies of gold huacas from the anthropological museum in
       Panama City line the walls. Upstairs, fast-forward several hundred years to the colonial
       and post-colonial periods, with displays of traditional musical instruments and
       costumes, including elaborate polleras and devil outfits, and various tools from rural
       life. Don’t miss the pouch made from a bull’s scrotum used to carry staples for mending
       fences. The museum also offers Spanish-language cultural tours of the area.
                                                                      4
       ArriVAl AnD DePArTure                                  ChiTrÉ
       By bus Chitré’s bus terminal (T996 6426) is 1km south of   every 30min; 1hr); Panama City (1.30am, 2.45am, then
       the town centre on the bypass, Vía Circunvalación. Frequent   hourly 4am–6pm; 3hr 30min); Pesé (6.30am–6.30pm;
       minibuses shuttle to Parque Unión, where you can catch   every 15–20min; 30min); Playa El Agallito (6am–6pm;
       the return bus to the terminal. Taxis from the bus terminal   every 30min; 20min); Santiago – change for David
       cost around $2 to most places in town. Getting to Chitré   (5am–6.30pm; every 30min; 1hr 10min).
       from Panama City involves taking a bus from Albrook bus   By plane Air Panama (T316 9000,  Wairpanama.com)
       terminal (6am–7pm;  hourly;  3hr  30min).  The  last  bus   offers two daily flights to Chitré from Panama City’s Albrook
       bound back to the capital leaves at 6pm.  Airport (30min; $81 one way, $150 return).
       Destinations Aguadulce (4am–6pm; every 20min; 1hr);   By car It might be worth renting a car for a couple of days,
        La Arena (6am–9pm; every 10–15min; 10min); La Villa de   especially to get to the less accessible protected areas or to
       Los Santos (6am–9.30pm, with a last bus at 10.30pm;   explore further inland. There are several international rental
       every 10–15min; 15min); Las Minas (6am–6pm; every   companies in town – ask the tourist office for contact
       30min; 45min); Las Tablas – change for Pedasí and Tonosí   details. Alternatively, hire a taxi driver for the day; rates are
       (6am–9.30pm; every 20min; 40min); Macaracas   usually $12–15/hr, but around $80 for the whole day. The
       (6am–6pm; every 30–45min; 1hr); Ocú (6.30am–7pm;   tourist office or your lodgings can recommend a driver.
       inForMATion AnD Tours
       Tourist information  There is an ATP kiosk in the   Tours  Cubitá Tours  (T978 0200,  Wcubitatours.com)
       northwestern corner of Parque Unión (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm;   offers pricey bilingual day-trips round the Azuero. These
       T974 4532, Watp.gob.pa).       include the usual jaunt to Isla Iguana or to the rum distillery
       MIA office The regional MIA office is on C Pastor Solis, just   (see p.160), visits to artisan workshops, hiking in the hills
       north of Vía Circunvalación on the southeastern side of   or even taking part in traditional communal activities such
       town (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; T996 7675); get in touch for   as harvesting rice or building an adobe house.  Tours
       permission to visit La Reserva Forestal El Montuoso (see   $40–130; minimum four people.
       p.162) or Parque Nacional Sarigua (see p.159).
       ACCoMMoDATion
       Hotel Rex Parque Unión, C Melitón Martín T996 4310,   for the prime location on the plaza so it’s worth splashing
       Wfacebook.com/hotelrexchitrepanama. You’re  paying   out for the French windows and a view over the park.



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