Page 159 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)
P. 159
Chitré and around The Azuero PeninsulA 157
Parque Unión and around
The cathedral is flanked by the formal gardens of Parque Unión. Neatly clipped
flowerbeds and swaying palm trees around a stately bandstand provide the backdrop
for a melding of modernity and tradition: young suited executives hold forth on their
mobile phones while elderly campesinos in montunos and sombreros de junco – the
traditional embroidered shirts and workday straw hats – discuss the local news. A
two-block stroll east brings you to Parque Centenario, a more low-key affair,
surrounded by squat red-tiled houses with wrought-iron grillwork.
Museo de Herrera
Parque Bandera, C Manuel María Correa • Mon–Sat 8am–4pm, Sun 9am–noon • $1
Though quite modest (with captions only in Spanish), the Museo de Herrera, in an
elegant converted colonial mansion and former post office, is probably the best
museum outside Panama City. Downstairs focuses on the pre-Columbian era: a couple
of fine ceremonial metates stand out, as well as the impressive collection of ceramics.
A reproduction burial chamber shows a life-size model cacique decked out in his gold
arm- and leg bands, while copies of gold huacas from the anthropological museum in
Panama City line the walls. Upstairs, fast-forward several hundred years to the colonial
and post-colonial periods, with displays of traditional musical instruments and
costumes, including elaborate polleras and devil outfits, and various tools from rural
life. Don’t miss the pouch made from a bull’s scrotum used to carry staples for mending
fences. The museum also offers Spanish-language cultural tours of the area.
4
ArriVAl AnD DePArTure ChiTrÉ
By bus Chitré’s bus terminal (T996 6426) is 1km south of every 30min; 1hr); Panama City (1.30am, 2.45am, then
the town centre on the bypass, Vía Circunvalación. Frequent hourly 4am–6pm; 3hr 30min); Pesé (6.30am–6.30pm;
minibuses shuttle to Parque Unión, where you can catch every 15–20min; 30min); Playa El Agallito (6am–6pm;
the return bus to the terminal. Taxis from the bus terminal every 30min; 20min); Santiago – change for David
cost around $2 to most places in town. Getting to Chitré (5am–6.30pm; every 30min; 1hr 10min).
from Panama City involves taking a bus from Albrook bus By plane Air Panama (T316 9000, Wairpanama.com)
terminal (6am–7pm; hourly; 3hr 30min). The last bus offers two daily flights to Chitré from Panama City’s Albrook
bound back to the capital leaves at 6pm. Airport (30min; $81 one way, $150 return).
Destinations Aguadulce (4am–6pm; every 20min; 1hr); By car It might be worth renting a car for a couple of days,
La Arena (6am–9pm; every 10–15min; 10min); La Villa de especially to get to the less accessible protected areas or to
Los Santos (6am–9.30pm, with a last bus at 10.30pm; explore further inland. There are several international rental
every 10–15min; 15min); Las Minas (6am–6pm; every companies in town – ask the tourist office for contact
30min; 45min); Las Tablas – change for Pedasí and Tonosí details. Alternatively, hire a taxi driver for the day; rates are
(6am–9.30pm; every 20min; 40min); Macaracas usually $12–15/hr, but around $80 for the whole day. The
(6am–6pm; every 30–45min; 1hr); Ocú (6.30am–7pm; tourist office or your lodgings can recommend a driver.
inForMATion AnD Tours
Tourist information There is an ATP kiosk in the Tours Cubitá Tours (T978 0200, Wcubitatours.com)
northwestern corner of Parque Unión (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; offers pricey bilingual day-trips round the Azuero. These
T974 4532, Watp.gob.pa). include the usual jaunt to Isla Iguana or to the rum distillery
MIA office The regional MIA office is on C Pastor Solis, just (see p.160), visits to artisan workshops, hiking in the hills
north of Vía Circunvalación on the southeastern side of or even taking part in traditional communal activities such
town (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; T996 7675); get in touch for as harvesting rice or building an adobe house. Tours
permission to visit La Reserva Forestal El Montuoso (see $40–130; minimum four people.
p.162) or Parque Nacional Sarigua (see p.159).
ACCoMMoDATion
Hotel Rex Parque Unión, C Melitón Martín T996 4310, for the prime location on the plaza so it’s worth splashing
Wfacebook.com/hotelrexchitrepanama. You’re paying out for the French windows and a view over the park.
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