Page 34 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

32 BASICS Food and drink
and dripping in grease). Costa rica’s national dish, the day, you’ll also see men pushing carts laden
gallo pinto (literally “speckled rooster”), is also with fluorescent liquids and blocks of ice around
popular, a moist rice, beans and onions mix often the main squares, peddling raspados – paper
accompanied with a dollop of natilla – a local sour cones filled with shavings of ice, drizzled over with
cream that is also lavished on strawberries in the a sickly flavoured liquid, made still sweeter by a
Chiriquí Highlands – and fried or scrambled eggs. slurp of condensed milk and much loved by kids.
For something lighter, head for a panadería
(bakery) for a pastry and a shot of coffee, or pick up Alcoholic drinks
fresh fruit at the local market. in the more expensive
hotels in Panama City and in European- or north Beer is the most popular alcoholic drink; Panama’s
american-owned establishments outside the four main labels – Soberana, Panamá, Balboa and
capital, you can also expect combinations of atlas – are all fairly inoffensive lagers, with Balboa,
cereals, fruit, yoghurt and toast. the current favourite, slightly more full-bodied.
Balboa ice and Panamá Lite are low-alcohol
Lunch and dinner additions to the range. Though none of these will
set the pulses of beer aficionados racing, when
Lunch in formal dining establishments is usually ice-cold they do hit the spot. You’ll pay a dollar to
served from noon until 3pm, dinner from 6 or 7pm swig out of a bottle in a local cantina, and up to $6
until around 10pm, with the midday meal usually to have your beer served in a frosted glass on a
offering better value for money. serviette in a plush nightclub. imported beers such
While it’s possible to grab a light lunch – a flaky as Heineken and Budweiser, and even Guinness, are
empanada (pasty) with a beef-, pork-, chicken or available in Panama City and tourist towns but are
cheese-based filling or an emparedado (sandwich) more expensive. over the last couple of years, craft
– in urban areas, for most Panamanians lunch is the beers have made an appearance in the major
main meal of the day. in the fondas and cheaper tourist/expat areas; bank on paying $5–6 a bottle.
restaurants ordering an almuerzo or menú del día The national tipple, the transparent, throat-singeing
(lunch of the day) will get you a filling plate of seco (a rough sugar-cane spirit), is significantly more
chicken with rice, plus beans or lentils, or maybe potent (35 percent) and more commonly consumed
fish and plantain down on the coast, for $3–4. Some by men in the interior, particularly during fiestas – as
places throw in a soup starter and dessert to give is rum. Chicha fuerte, a potent fermented maize
you a three-course set meal at very little extra cost. brew, is made in bulk for special celebrations, particu-
Posher restaurants in the city will sometimes offer a larly among indigenous and campesino communities.
menú ejecutivo – a fancier and pricier set menu – another lethal home-brew favoured by campesinos is
but still good value – to their business clientele. vino de palma, made from fermented palm sap,
Set-meal cenas (dinner of the day) are available in whereas guarapo is sugar-cane juice distilled to
the early evening in some places. otherwise, knockout strength. Wine – usually Chilean or Califor-
evening eating is generally more low-key. nian – is becoming increasingly available at reason-
Mid-range and high-end restaurants often add able prices in Panama City and in tourist areas such as
the seven-percent sales tax (iTBMS) on top of the Bocas and Boquete.
bill, and some even add an obligatory ten-percent
service charge – recently outlawed, in theory – Non-alcoholic drinks
which is not always included on the menu price list.
Where meal prices are quoted in the Guide we have Fruit-based drinks feature prominently; in most
factored in these extra charges. parts of the country you can enjoy them with ice, safe
in the knowledge that the water is drinkable (see
Street food and snacks opposite). Mango, pineapple, soursop, passion fruit,
tamarind and a host of other fruits can be savoured in
Street food, though not widespread, can range a range of forms: as a jugo natural (pure fruit juice), a
from chunks of fresh pineapple or watermelon to licuado (a fresh fruit, water and sugar shake), a batido
plantain crisps (platanitos) deep-fried on the spot. (a milk shake) or a chicha (a sweet maize-based fruit
Small roadside grills often serve carne en palito concoction, not to be confused with its alcoholic
(meat on a little stick) – fairly tiny kebabs cousin chicha fuerte). The similar-sounding chicheme,
comprising slivers of (occasionally spicy) marinated a tasty Panamanian speciality of ground maize, milk,
beef, which take the edge off your appetite. during vanilla and cinnamon, most revered in La Chorrera,

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