Page 69 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Prague

OLD T OWN  67

3 Celetná Street
Celetná Ulice
Map 3 C3. X Náměstí Republiky.
One of the oldest streets in
Prague, Celetná follows an old
trading route from eastern
Bohemia. Its name comes from
the plaited bread rolls that were
first baked here in the Middle
Ages. It gained prestige in the
14th century as a section of the
Royal Route (see pp174–5) used
for coronation processions.
Foundations of Romanesque and Baroque organ loft in the Basilica of St James
Gothic buildings can be seen in
some of the cellars, but most of to Prague by King Wenceslas I and many concerts and recitals
the houses with their picturesque in 1232. The church was rebuilt in are given here. There is also a
signs are Baroque remodellings. the Baroque style after a fire magnificent organ built in 1702.
At No. 34, the House of the in 1689, allegedly started by
Black Madonna is a fine agents of Louis XIV. Over 20 side
example of Cubist architecture. altars were added, decorated 5 Estates Theatre
The building was designed by with works by painters such Stavovské Divadlo
Josef Gočár in 1911 and is as Jan Jiří Heinsch, Petr Brandl Ovocný trh 1. Map 3 C4. Tel 224 901
home to the historic Grand and Václav Vavřinec Reiner. 448 (tickets), 224 901 506 (groups),
Café Orient (see p206), the The tomb of Count Vratislav of 221 714 161 (weekends, for
only surviving Cubist café Mitrovice (1714–16), designed individuals). X Můstek. Open for
in the world. There is a Cubist by Johann Bernhard Fischer von guided tours and performances only.
gallery on the ground floor. Erlach and executed by sculptor & 8 7 ∑ narodni-divadlo.cz
Ferdinand Brokoff, is the most
beautiful Baroque tomb in Built by Count Nostitz in 1783,
4 Basilica of Bohemia. The count is said to this opera theatre is one of
St James have been accidentally buried Prague’s finest examples of Neo-
Bazilika Sv. Jakuba alive – his corpse was later Classical elegance. It is a mecca
found sitting up in the tomb. for Mozart fans (see p218). On 29
Malá Štupartská 6. Map 3 C3. Hanging on the right of the October 1787, Mozart’s opera,
X Můstek, Náměstí Republiky. entrance is a mummified Don Giovanni had its debut here
Tel 224 828 816. Open 9:30am–
noon & 2–4pm Tue–Sat (to 3:30pm forearm. It has been there for with Mozart conducting. In 1834,
Fri), 2–4pm Sun. 5 6:45am Mon– several centuries, ever since a the musical Fidlovačka premiered
Fri, 5pm Thu–Fri, 8am Sat, 8:30am thief tried to steal the jewels here; one of the songs, “Where
& 10:30am Sun. from the Madonna on the is my Home?”, became the
high altar. The Virgin grabbed Czech national anthem.
This basilica was originally the his arm and held on so tightly
Gothic presbytery of a Minorite it had to be cut off.
monastery. The order (a branch Because of its long nave, the 6 Carolinum
of the Franciscans) was invited church has excellent acoustics, Karolinum
Ovocný trh 3. Map 3 C4. Tel 224 491
850. X Můstek. Closed to the public.
Smetana Hall Open for special exhibitions.
At the core of the university
founded by Charles IV in 1348
is the Carolinum. The chapel,
arcade and walls still survive,
together with a fine oriel
window, but in 1945, the court-
yard was reconstructed in
Gothic style. In the 15th and 16th
centuries, the university played
a leading role in the movement
to reform the church. After the
Battle of the White Mountain
(see pp32–3), the university was
taken over by the Jesuits.

066-067_EW_Prague.indd 67 20/03/17 11:28 am