Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Prague

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Prague Area Map
Prague Area by Area
The coloured areas shown on Most of the sights described in this book lie within the five areas 0 metres 500 500
of central Prague shown on the map below. Each of these areas
0 yards
this map (see inside front cover) are has its own section in the book. The centre of Prague is so small
and easy to get around, that even if you only have a couple of
days to spare, you can get to know the character and life of this
ancient city quite well. After visiting the Old Town and the
the five main sightseeing areas of Jewish Quarter, you can walk across Charles Bridge, through the
Little Quarter and up to Prague Castle and you will have seen
many, if not most, of the major sights.
Prague – each covered in a full Jewish Quarter
Josefov
chapter in Prague Area by Area PRAGUE CASTLE AND HRADČANY JEWISH QUARTER Pages 82–95
JOSEFOV
PRAŽSKÝ HRAD A HRADČANY
(pp60–157). They are highlighted
on other maps throughout the
OLD TOWN
book. In Prague at a Glance LITTLE QUARTER STARÉ MĚSTO
MALÁ STRANA
(pp38–51), for example, they help Prague Castle and Vltava
Hradčany Pražský
Hrad a Hradčany
Old Town
Pages 96–121 Staré Město
locate the top sights. They are also Pages 62–81
used to plot the routes of the river NOVÉ MĚSTO
NEW TOWN
trip (pp56–9) and the four guided
walks (p173).
Little Quarter New Town
Malá Strana Nové Město
Pages 122–141 Pages 142–157
100  PR A GUE AREA B Y AREA PR A GUE C ASTLE AND HR ADČ AN Y  101
1 Picture Gallery of by Prince Bořivoj, the first church in Prague. It was enlarged
Prague Castle Přemyslid prince to be baptized in 973 when the adjoining Practical Information
Obrazárna Pražského Hradu a Christian (see pp22–3). St George’s Convent was
during reconstruction.
Prague Castle, the second courtyard. The site was discovered established here, and rebuilt
following a fire in 1142. The
Map 2 D2. Tel 224 373 531. massive twin towers and lists all the information you
X Malostranská, Hradčanská. austere interior have been
v 22. Open 9am–5pm daily (Nov– 2 St Vitus’s scrupulously restored to give
Mar: to 4pm). & 7 ∑ hrad.cz Cathedral a good idea of the church’s need to visit every sight,
The gallery was created in 1965 Chrám Sv. Víta original appearance. However,
to hold works of art collected See pp102–105. the rusty red façade was a
since the reign of Rudolph II 17th-century Baroque addition. including a map reference
(see pp30–31). Though most of Buried in the church is
the collection was looted by 3 Powder Tower St Ludmila, widow of the
the Swedes in 1648, many Prašná Věž 9th-century ruler Prince Bořivoj to the Street Finder
interesting paintings remain. Prague Castle, Vikářská. Map 2 D2. (see pp22–3). She became
Works from the 16th–18th Tel 224 372 434. X Malostranská, Bohemia’s first female Christian
centuries form the bulk of the Hradčanská. v 22. Open Apr–Oct: martyr when she was strangled Façade of St George’s Basilica, with the towers in the background (pp250–55).
collection, but there are also 9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm as she knelt at prayer. Other
sculptures, among them a daily. & ^ 7 members of the Přemyslid painted houses which were 7 Lobkowicz Palace
copy of a bust of Rudolph by dynasty buried here include built right into the arches of Lobkovický Palác
Adriaen de Vries. Highlights A tower was built here in about Vratislav. His austere tomb stands the Castle walls. They were Jiřská 3. Map 2 E2. Tel 233 312 925 (to
include Titian’s The Toilet of 1496 by the King Vladislav II’s on the right-hand side of the constructed in the late 1500s book a guided tour). X Malostranská.
a Young Lady, Rubens’ The architect Benedikt Ried as a nave at the foot of the curving for Rudolph II’s 24 Castle guards. v 5, 12, 18, 20, 22. Open 10am–6pm
Assembly of the Olympic Gods cannon bastion overlooking steps that lead up to the choir. A century later, the goldsmiths daily. & ^ 7 - ∑ lobkowicz.cz
and Guido Reni’s The Centaur the Stag Moat. The original View of the Powder Tower from The impressive Baroque grille moved in and modified the Toy Museum: Tel 224 372 294.
Nessus Abducting Deianeira. was destroyed in the fire of across the Stag Moat opposite encloses the tomb of buildings. But by the 19th cen- Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily.
Master Theodoric, Paolo 1541, but it was rebuilt as Boleslav II (972–99). The adjacent tury, the area had degenerated
Veronese, Tintoretto and the home and workshop of experiments that convinced former Benedictine nunnery is into a slum and was populated Dating from 1570, this is one
the Czech Baroque artists gunsmith and bell founder the emperor they could turn the oldest convent building in by Prague’s poor and the of the palaces that sprang up
Jan Kupecký and Petr Brandl Tomáš Jaroš. In 1549, he lead into gold. Bohemia. It was founded in 973 criminal community. In the after the fire of 1541, when
are among other artists made Prague’s largest bell, the In 1649, when the Swedish by Princess Mlada, sister of 1950s, all the remaining tenants Hradčany was largely
represented. The Picture 18-tonne Sigismund, for the bell army was occupying the Castle, Boleslav II. Throughout the were moved out and the area destroyed. Some original
Gallery houses many of tower of St Vitus’s Cathedral. gunpowder exploded in the Middle Ages, the convent, tog- restored to something like its sgraffito on the façade has
Rudolph’s best paintings. During Rudolph II’s reign tower, causing serious damage. ether with the basilica, formed original state. The house at been preserved, but most of
You can also see the remains (1576–1612), the tower became Nevertheless, it was used as a the heart of the castle complex. number 20 is the oldest and the present palace is Carlo
of the Castle’s first church, the a laboratory for alchemists. It gunpowder store until 1754, the least altered in appearance. Lurago’s 17th-century
9th-century Church of our Lady, was here that adventurers such when it was converted into flats Most of the houses were reconstruction for the
thought to have been built as Edward Kelley performed for the sacristans of St Vitus’s 6 Golden Lane converted into shops selling Lobkowicz family, who had
Cathedral. Today, the tower Zlatá Ulička books, Bohemian glass and inherited it in 1627. The Numbers refer to each
houses a permanent exhibition Map 2 E2. X Malostranská, other souvenirs for tourists, who most splendid room is the
of Czech military history. Hradčanská. v 22. & flock to the narrow lane. 17th-century banqueting hall sight’s position on the
Golden Lane has been home
with mythological frescoes by
4 Old Royal Palace Named after the goldsmiths to some well-known writers, Fabian Harovník.
The palace once formed
including the Nobel prize-
who lived here in the 17th
Starý Královský Palác century, this short, narrow street winning poet Jaroslav Seifert, part of Prague’s National
See pp106–107. is one of the most picturesque and Franz Kafka (see p70) who Museum, but has since been area map and its place
in Prague. One side of the lane stayed at No. 22 with his sister returned to the Lobkowicz
is lined with tiny, brightly for a few months in 1916–17. family. It now houses the
5 St George’s Because of its name, valuable Princely Collections, in the chapter.
Basilica and legends have spread an exhibition of paintings,
about the street
decorative arts, original
Convent being filled with music scores annotated by
Bazilika Sv. Jiří alchemists huddled Beet hoven and Haydn, and
over their bubbling musical instruments.
Jiřské náměstí. Map 2 E2. Tel 224 371 alembics trying to Opposite the palace, at
111. X Malostranská, Hradčanská. produce gold for No. 6, is a delightful toy
v 22. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Rudolph II. In fact,
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. museum claiming to be the
& ^ 7 ∑ hrad.cz the alchemists world’s second largest, with
toys from ancient Greece to
had laboratories
Founded by Prince Vratislav in Vikářská, the lane the present. The collection
(915–21), the basilica pre-dates between St Vitus’s includes toys made from
St Vitus’s Cathedral and is the Cathedral and the wood and tin, dolls and
Titian’s The Toilet of a Young Lady in the Castle Picture Gallery best-preserved Romanesque One of the tiny houses in Golden Lane Powder Tower. teddy bears.
Detailed Information on each Sight The Visitors’ Checklist
3All the important sights in Prague are described provides the practical information
individually. They are listed in order, following the you will need to plan your visit.
numbering on the area map. Practical information
on opening hours, telephone
numbers, admission charges and 102  PR A GUE AREA B Y AREA PR A GUE C ASTLE AND HR ADČ AN Y  103
facilities available is given for each 2 St Vitus’s Cathedral The slender buttresses that VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Flying Buttresses
Katedrála Sv. Víta, Václava a Vojtécha
surround the exterior of
Practical Information
the nave and chancel,
sight. The key to the symbols used Work began on the city’s most distinctive landmark in 1344 on interior, are richly decorated Prague Castle, third courtyard.
supporting the vaulted
Map 2 D2.
the orders of John of Luxembourg. The first architect was the
Cathedral: Open 9am–5pm
like the rest of the cathedral.
Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun (except
French Matthew of Arras. After his death, Swabian Peter Parler
can be found on the back flap. took over. His masons’ lodge continued to work on the building during services). 5 7am Mon–
Sat & 6pm Fri; 8:30am & 10am
until the Hussite Wars. Finally completed by 19th- and
20th-century architects and artists, the cathedral houses the Sun. 7 South Tower: Open
10am–5pm daily (Apr–Oct: to
crown jewels and the tomb of “Good King” Wenceslas (pp22–3). 6pm). &
St Vitus’s Cathedral Transport
Gargoyles This 19th-century engraving shows X Hradčanská, Malostranská.
On the ornate west front, how the cathedral looked before v 22 to Prague Castle (Pražský hrad).
gutter spouts are given the additions made in 1872–1929.
their traditional disguise.
. Chapel of
St Wenceslas
The bronze ring
on the chapel’s
north portal was
The façade of each major sight is the one to which
thought to be
St Wenceslas
shown to help you spot it quickly. clung as he was
murdered by his
brother Boleslav
KEY (see pp22–3).
1 West front
2 The Rose Window, located
above the portals, was designed by
František Kysela in 1925–7. It depicts
scenes from the biblical story of
the creation.
Stars indicate the most interesting 3 Twin west spires
4 Nave
5 Triforium
architectural details of the building, 6 The Renaissance bell tower is
capped with a Baroque “helmet”.
7 Chancel
and the most important works of 8 To Royal Palace (see pp106–107). Main entrance
9 The tomb of St Wenceslas is
connected to an altar, decorated
art or exhibits on view inside. with semi-precious stones.
926 Rotunda of 1344 King John of 1619 Calvinists
St Vitus built by Luxembourg founds take over 1872 Joseph Mocker
St Wenceslas Gothic cathedral. French cathedral as begins work on . Golden Portal
architect Matthew of Bust of Peter Parler house of west nave Until the 19th century, this was the
Arras begins work prayer
on triforium Gothic Vaulting main cathedral entrance, and it is still
1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 The skills of architect used on special occasions. Above it
is a mosaic of The Last Judgment by
1060 Building of Tomb of Přemysl Otakar II 1421 Hussites 1589 Royal tomb 1770 New steeple Peter Parler are never 14th-century Venetian craftsmen.
triple-naved basilica occupy St Vitus’s completed added to tower after fire more clearly seen than
begins on orders of in the delicate fans of
Numbered circles point out key Prince Spytihněv 1356 Masterbuilder Peter 1929 Consecration of completed ribbing that support
the three Gothic arches
Parler summoned to continue
cathedral, nearly 1,000 years after
work on the cathedral
death of St Wenceslas
of the Golden Portal.
features of the sight listed in a key.
Prague’s Major Sights
4Historic buildings are dissected to reveal their interiors;
and museums and galleries have colour-coded floorplans
to help you find important exhibits.
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