Page 186 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

184  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Meat does feature on menus in the region during the many gastronomic festivals that
of Liguria, but anyone who does not eat fish take place in each season. Agriturismo, or
is likely to feel that they are missing out. farm holidays, also give visitors the chance
Ligurian cooking revolves around seafood, to taste home cooking. The restaurants listed
particularly on the coast. Liguria has some on pages 188–97 have been selected from
excellent upmarket restaurants, but more the best on offer, across all price ranges.
pleasure can often be derived from a family- They are organized by region and price.
run trattoria in the historic district of a resort, The phrasebook on page 223 will help visitors
or in one of the hilltowns of the interior. A to order a meal although most restaurants
good time to try the local specialities is will have English menus.
Opening Hours and the sea. The
and Prices
variety of seafood on
Lunch is usually served from local menus is huge:
midday to 2:30 or 3pm, while bream (orata), red
dinner is served from 7pm until mullet (triglia) and
late in the evening, the later sea bass (branzino)
hours being kept in the large are all popular,
resorts with an active nightlife. alongside staple
Closing days depend both on shellfish such as
the season and on the type prawns and mussels.
of establishment; in general, Many restaurants
restaurants and trattorias offer fish soups and
stay open for most of the year, stews, a choice of
parti cularly in the towns along grilled or roasted fish,
the coast. In many restaurants or a mix of fried fish. Summer tables at a Ligurian restaurant, placed in the
the bill can easily exceed €50 Fancier fish dishes characteristic carruggi
per head, excluding wine, include cappon
espe cially if the meal includes magro, a salad of fish, greens the area around Taggia, are
fresh fish. In a more everyday and hard-boiled eggs in garlic particularly renowned.
trattoria, the bill is likely to come sauce. Dried cod (stoccafisso) is Basil, thyme, rosemary and
to around €25–30. In terms of also popular. Along with their marjoram, all of which are
tipping, it is usual to leave combination with fish or meat, grown in the moun tain valleys,
around 5 per cent of the total vegetables are also the focus are the clas sic Ligurian herbs.
bill in a trat toria, and 10 per of many dishes. Stuffed (ripieni Supreme among these is basil
cent in a restaurant. or farciti) vegetables are (basilico), the basis for the
very popular. region’s world-famous pesto.
The olives that are the source This is served with the region’s
Local Produce
of the region’s rightly sought- fantastic array of local pastas,
Ligurian cooking is inspired by after olive oil are also used in with intriguing names such
an ancient tradition born out cooking. Olives known as as fidelini, fazzoletti and stracci.
of the superb fruits of the land taggiasca, which means from The best-known pastas are
trofie (twists from Genoa)
and trenette (flat cousins of
spa ghetti), while the most
popular stuffed pastas are
pansôti (see p186) and ravioli.

Ligurian Trattorias
Typical Ligurian trattorias may
provide more modest decor
and simpler menus than the
average restaurant, but they
often offer excellent meals.
Unfortunately, tourist develop-
ment along the coast has
brought with it a proliferation
Fresh fish, abundant in the seas along the Riviera of fast food joints and pizza

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