Page 201 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 201

SHOPPING      199


                                               to pay to taste the wine,
                                               which may be accompanied
                                               by cheese and salami, and you
                                               usually need to book ahead.

                                               Gastronomy
                                               The main problem with buying
                                               food in Liguria is that it is hard
                                               to know where to start, and
                                               when to stop. Much of what
                                               you see is best eaten on the
                                               spot. This applies to the
                                               wonderful snacks that the
                                               Ligurians love. Baked or fried
                                               snacks come in all shapes and
       Dried beans sold by the sackful at a Ligurian market  sizes: from the famous focaccia,
                                               to cuculli (fritters) and torta
       the coast, but the best olives   Note that the price of a good-  sardenaira, a sort of pizza topped
       grow along the Riviera di   quality olive oil (ideally extra   with tomatoes and anchovies
       Ponente, none more so than the   virgin) bought from a press-  (popular in San Remo).
       small black olives of Taggia,   house is higher than that of an   Bakeries and pasticcerie
       which yield a golden olive oil   everyday oil from a super-  (pastry shops) sell all
       with green tints and an almondy,   market or grocer’s shop,   manner of wonderful
       lightly fruity aroma. In the area   but it will definitely be   cakes and biscuits, too.
       between Taggia and Albenga    worth taking home.    In terms of foods to
       you can buy olive oil direct                  take home, you’d do
       from the producers: look for    Wine          better to concentrate
       signs saying frantoio, which                  on the local cured
       means presshouse.   Liguria is not a major    meats and preserved
         Most Ligurian olive oil    wine producer but still   vegetables, such as
       carries the quality mark of   has some respected   sundried tomatoes,
       Denomi nazione d’Origine   wines, both whites and   local artichoke paste
       Protetta (DOP), which guarantees   reds (see p187). It is   and dried porcini
       the prove nance of the olives,    fun to buy wine direct   mushrooms. Ancho-
       and the cold-pressing methods   from the producers.   Olio Carli, a fine olive    vies in olive oil are
       used in the manufacture.  Sometimes you have   oil from Imperia  another good buy.
                               DIRECTORY
        Antiques      Glass and Lace  Local Produce  Cascina dei Peri (wine
                                                    and oil)
        Antiqua & Tuttantico  E. Gandolfi (lace)  Antico Frantoio   Castelnuovo Magra
        Genoa         Rapallo        Sommariva (oil)  Via Montefrancio 71.
        Fiera Internazionale.    Piazza Cavour 1.    Albenga  Tel 0187 674 085.
        Tel 010 539 11.   Tel 0185 50 234.  Via Mameli 7.    Enoteca Sciacchetrà
                                     Tel 0182 559 222.
        ∑ fiera.ge.it  Soffieria Bormioli           (wine)
                      (glass)        Bottega del    Vernazza Via Roma 50.
        Ceramics      Altare         Formaggio (cheese    Tel 0187 821 210.
        Ceramiche Fenice  Via Paleologo 16.  & salami)  Panificio Canale
                                     Chiavari
                      Tel 019 58 254.
        Albissola Marina             Via Martiri della   (bakery)
                                                    Portofino
        Via Repetio 22.    Plants    Liberazione 208.   Via Roma 30.
        Tel 019 481 668.             Tel 0185 314 225.  Tel 0185 269 248.
                      Stern & Dellerba
        Studio d’Arte Esedra  (cacti & succulents)  Bottega della Strega   A’Pestun’à (bakery)
        Dolceacqua    San Remo       (deli)         Genoa
        Via Castello 11.    Via Privata delle Rose 7.   Triora  Via Boccadasse 9.
                                     Corso Italia 48.
        Tel 0184 200 969.  Tel 0184 661 290.  Tel 0184 94 278.  Tel 010 377 75 75.
        Studio Ernan Design  Vivai Olcese (plants)  Bruciamonti (deli)  Revello Dolce e
                                                    Salato (bakery)
        Albisola Superiore  Genova   Genoa          Camogli
        Corso Mazzini 7.    Via Borghero 6.    Via Roma 81.   Via Garibaldi 183.
        Tel 019 489 916.  Tel 010 380 290.  Tel 010 562 515.  Tel 0185 770 777.

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