Page 22 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 22

20      INTRODUCING   THE  IT ALIAN  RIVIER A

                                     The inhabitants of one valley
                                     would almost certainly be suspicious
                                     of the inhabitants of a nei gh bouring
                                     one. Such complex relation ships are
                                     still part of everyday life in Liguria. To
                                     further complicate matters, there has
                                     been a steady exodus of people from
                                     the mountains towards the coast.
                                     While agriculture in the interior is
                                     in decline, tourism on the coast
                                     is booming.
                                      Demographically, Liguria is in deep
                                     water. It has the lowest birth rate in Italy,
                                     making it the lowest in Europe, and an
                                     unusually aged population: 25 per cent
                                     of Ligurians are over 65 years old. One
                                     reason for this is the influx of retirees,
                                     attracted by Liguria’s warm climate.
       The picturesque seaside town of Camogli, one of the most
       attractive resorts along the Ligurian coast
       town of witches; or the villages of
       the Val di Vara. These places are just as
       Ligurian as the gentrified ports that are
       popular with the jet set.

       The People
       The temperament of the Ligurian
       people can be said to vary according to
       the character of the coast, being generally
       more open and sunny on the beach-rich   Retirees immersed in playing bocce, the local version of the French
       Riviera di Ponente, and more terse and   boules (game played with metal balls)
       reserved along the rockier Riviera di
       Levante. The writer Guido Piovene noted   Tourism
       in his Viaggio in Italia, published in the   Tourism started in the Italian Riviera in the
       1960s, that “The greatest diversity can    19th century, and it is now the dominant
       be obser ved going from Genoa to the   industry. The main attraction is, of course,
       west. Here, the air of Provence breathes    the coast, with its 300 km (186 miles) of
       on a Liguria that is closed, laconic…    sandy or pebbly beaches, cliffs and small
       and lacking imagination, creating a   islands. Many of the towns, and even the
       loquacious, colourful Liguria of storytellers,   old fishing villages, from San Remo to
       a halfway link between the Genoese    Portovenere, are now devoted to tourism.
       and the Marseillais”.                   While in the most famous
         There is also a third Liguria –       seaside resorts there are
       that of the mountainous                  grand hotels built for the
       region behind the coast.                  visiting ari stocrats of the
       Traditionally, the people of               19th century, many of
       the mountains mistrusted not               the old fishing villages
       just the coastal folk but also the   A typical gozzo,    have a harbour rather
       people living in the valleys.    fishing dinghy  than a beach, and are




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