Page 60 - Philippine Tatler (April 2019)
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LIFE travel
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With its splendid riverside location, enriching cultural
programme, and myriad sybaritic pleasures, Rosewood
Luang Prabang casts a spell over Jakki Phillips
Photography Christopher WadsWorth
osewood Luang Prabang’s guest reflect its location, history, people and traditions.
experience manager used to live in a Saiyavong was eager to share his knowledge of
cave. For one year, Sommai Saiyavong Buddhism and show visitors the real Luang Prabang,
undertook a silent retreat in a rocky not just the well-trodden tourist trail.
hideaway high in the mountains It’s hard to imagine Saiyavong as a monk, let alone
R above the former royal capital of a silent one. With his chiselled cheek bones, spiky
Laos. In his quest for enlightenment, the 29-year- hair and cheeky grin, this charismatic young man
old did not speak, read, write, or communicate wouldn’t look out of place in a Laotian boy band.
in any way, existing in total isolation, sustained He certainly turns heads. As we explore the region
only by donations of sticky rice and fruit from together as part of my five-day stay at Rosewood
local villagers. This spiritual solitude was part of Luang Prabang, I notice young women smiling coyly
Saiyavong’s training to become a Buddhist monk, an and whispering as my guide walks by. “My family
apprenticeship he started in a monastery when he want me to get married and have children,” says
was only 12. Saiyavong. “They beg me not to go back to my silent
The resort’s managing director, Elias Pertoft, first existence, but I have to follow my heart and my heart
encountered this devout young Buddhist in late tells me that at some point in my life, I must return
2017, several months before his property was due to the monastery, forever.”
to open. The two men were living very different But until that fateful day, Rosewood guests are
lives. Saiyavong’s austere existence eventually took blessed to have this deeply spiritual young man images, CloCkwise from top left: hilltop tent; hmong herbal poultiCe; laotian herbs and spiCes; riverside villa; the sChool funded by the buddhist heritage projeCt; waterfall pool villa (Courtesy of rosewood luang prabang) ; buffalo sausages with Chilli jam;
its toll and, after falling ill, he ended his religious introducing them to rare encounters spanning sunrise
training, moving from his cave to a hut in the forest swims in secret waterfalls, candle-lit chanting in forest
near Rosewood Luang Prabang. Although no longer temples, and even the chance to drink Laotian rice
a novice monk, he still followed the teachings of whisky with hill tribe elders as they recite ancestral
Buddha, visiting monasteries daily and undertaking stories around the fire.
long walking meditations in the countryside where he My most memorable adventure was the
befriended local villagers and hill tribes. opportunity to accompany Saiyavong and members
Pertoft was living on-site at Rosewood, a beautiful of a local NGO, the Buddhist Heritage Project, on
Bill Bensley-designed resort 10 minutes outside the a journey along the mystical (if not a little murky)
historic UNESCO World Heritage-listed city. A far cry Mekong to present a gold Buddha statue and a cash
from Saiyavong’s jungle shack, this slice of paradise donation to a remote jungle monastery. The funds
is cradled in a peaceful valley along the banks of a will help build a college within the temple complex to
mountain stream, with only 23 residences ranging teach Buddhist arts and crafts to novice monks. Many
from luxurious hilltop tents to riverside pool villas ancient artisanal skills such as bronze casting, gold leaf
overlooking gentle waterfalls. stencilling, mural painting, and wood carving are on buddhist temple; sommai saiyavong
The two men connected over their shared passion the verge of extinction in Laos due to young people
for preserving and promoting the culture of the favouring jobs in tourism over traditional arts and
region. Pertoft had been seeking someone to curate crafts. As a result, Buddhist temples and monuments
unique guest experiences in keeping with Rosewood’s are falling into disrepair, with no one to maintain the
Sense of Place philosophy—that each property should old or build the new.
60 philippine tatler april 2019
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