Page 2 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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NATURAL WONDERS Croatia’s FORGET THE GREEK

ISLANDS?

THE BUILD-UP There are approximately 1,400
Greek islands, of which only 227 are inhabited.
They occupy a huge area of the Ionian and

to the coast of Turkey. Many are graced by fine,
Islands Aegean seas, stretching from Greece all the way
sandy beaches and sun through the year.
THE LETDOWN Several million tourists are
brought each year by monster ferries, cheap
flights, and package holidays. Uncontrolled
vs the Greek Islands building legislation in the past means
destination resorts now litter the islands. Any
authentic local economy or lifestyle has
disappeared from most islands. Tourism is the
Combining breathtaking beauty and incredible diversity, Croatia’s islands surpass only game in town, transforming the islands
those of Greece for unspoiled natural splendor – and they’re also far more accessible into theme parks.
GOING ANYWAY? Avoid the peak months of
late-June, July, and August. Don’t choose an
island with an airport – it makes getting there
NEED TO KNOW tides; secret Solta’s dense woods flavored with harder, but also means that the island will not
mulberry, olives, and rosemary; and Hvar, whose have been developed for the tourist market.
LOCATION The islands busy riviera nightclubs and restaurants are
are situated in the central 4-07&/*" ;BHSFC Instead, take a ferry from Piraeus, near Athens.
part of the Adriatic Sea $30"5*" patronized by the beautiful, the rich, and the
just off Croatia’s coast tanned. But there’s a whole lot more to Venetian-
POPULATION flavored Hvar than cool nightlife. The island’s
4.5 million #04/*"
$30"5*" 4 )&3;&(07*/" interior, too, buzzes by day – from the hives tended
NUMBER OF ISLANDS *4-"/%4
1,085 but only 47 are inhabited 4QMJU by small farmhouses, the precious boxes loaded
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "ESJBUJD with delicious lavender-flower honey. And off the
4F B
Jan: 54°F (12°C); Apr: 63°F (17°C); beaten track, you’ll find perfect, deserted bays,
Jul: 84°F (29°C); Oct: 70°F (21°C) %VCSPWOJL
inlets, and even a quiet fishing village.
There’s a vast choice of islands that you can
Forming a unique archipelago over 180 miles visit, but don’t miss Vis. Once the base for Allied ABOVE Hordes of tourists soaking up the sun at a crowded
(300 km) long, Croatia’s 1,000 or so islands and forces during World War II, the craggy island with beach in Malia, Crete
islets are spattered like paint along the length of fabulous views, quaffable wine, and unspoiled seas
the country’s coastline. It’s as though an artist has was closed to visitors until 1989 due to its status as
dipped a brush deep into greens and browns and a strategically important spot. It is dotted with
flicked it at the cobalt-blue canvas of the Adriatic. clumps of pines and carob trees among a low
Unlike the Greek Islands, many of which are scrub strewn with many varieties of herbs, cloaking
blighted by eyesore tourist resorts, Croatia’s best the island in an invisible fragrant cloud. This PRACTICAL INFORMATION
and most unspoiled islands are easily accessible magical perfume should be enough to convince
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
from the mainland without long and expensive you of the superiority of the Croatian Islands to the
Split has an airport and is the Hotel San Giorgio on Vis (www.
ferry trips. The communities benefit from tourism, Greek. If not, a short boat ride to the Blue Cave, best point of entry for the islands hotelsangiorgiovis.com), or
but at the same time continue to carry on with suffused with iridescent blue light at midday, a of Brac, Solta, Hvar, and Vis. Hvar’s luxury Riva Hotel (www.
their traditional island life. Some of the highlights hike through Greek and Roman ruins, visits to Mljet is most easily accessible slh.com/rivahotel).
include beautiful Brac, with its magical, curving spit sleepy fishing villages, and dining in some of the from Dubrovnik, but it is also a When to Go
good entry point for the other
of golden sand, Zlatni Rat, which moves with the country’s best restaurants should clinch the deal. As with all of Europe, it’s best if
islands as well.
Farther south, towards Dubrovnik, get away you can avoid the peak summer
Where to Eat months (Jul-Aug), when tourist
from the mainland crowds on Mljet, a national park
Generally, the food available on and yacht traffic increases.
with karst caves, emerald-green saltwater lakes, the islands is simple fare such as
and the tiny Sveta Marija monastery on an island baked or grilled fish, crab, Budget per Day for Two
US$350 should be enough if you
within an island. On this green island, ancient lobster, octopus, and grilled stay in the smarter hotels and
Aleppo pines and oaks ring with birdsong and meat. However, Hvar and Vis dine in quality restaurants.
islands have some select
provide shelter for mongooses, an exotic import Otherwise, if you prefer the
restaurants offering excellent
brought from India to control the snake population food. One of the best places to more standard accommodations
and who were then reluctant to leave. The quieter dine on Vis is Jastozera (www. and simple konobas, US$200
eastern end of the island is perfect for exploring on jastozera.com), a konoba should be sufficient.
foot or by bike and is home to some of Croatia’s (tavern) decorated with lobster Websites
pots and fishing paraphernalia. www.croatia.hr
rare sandy beaches. If you can, stay overnight –
Lobster rules here. www.croatiafortravellers.co.uk
ABOVE Zlatni Rat, the golden spit of sand, slicing the Adriatic at Brac you’ll feel the same way as the mongooses.

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