Page 24 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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BEACHES FORGET WAIKĪKĪ?

THE BUILD-UP Arguably the world’s most
famous beach, Waikīkī stretches for 2 miles
(3 km) along the shoreline of southern O’ahu.
Its natural setting is magnificent, with the
Ko‘olau Mountains soaring to the rear, the
extinct volcano of Diamond Head silhouetted
to the southeast, and the sun descending each
night into the Pacific Ocean straight ahead.

Hulopo‘e THE LETDOWN Waikīkī is, however, no
timeless South Seas paradise; it is a hectic
modern resort, whose high-rise hotels sleep
100,000 guests per night, and whose bars, clubs,
restaurants, and cafés remain open around the
vs Waikīkī clock. Simply finding room to lie on the sand,
or swim in the sea, can be a problem. And with
busy Honolulu just 3 miles (5 km) west, traffic
congestion is frequently horrendous.
Hawai‘i’s Hulopo‘e Beach has everything from gorgeous golden sands and idyllic swimming,
GOING ANYWAY? To make the most of
to abundant marine life – and none of the crowds and high-rises of Waikīkī Waikīkī, throw yourself into the melee. Spend
the day sunbathing or in the ocean, surfing or
canoeing, then spend the night partying hard.
a glimpse of the ocean; the crowds of touts and And be sure to explore the rest of O’ahu, which
NEED TO KNOW
tourists jostling for position on the beach, the abounds in forests, beaches, and cultural sights.
LOCATION Hulopo‘e is on wafting smells of the all-you-can-eat bacon-and-
the south shore of the small ,BVBAJ
island of Lāna‘i, 9 miles egg buffets just a few feet away from the water.
(15 km) west of Maui -ūIVAF 0ABIV Lāna‘i is often called the “Private Island,” as it is
)POPMVMV
VISITORS PER YEAR .PMPLBAJ almost entirely owned by David H. Murdock, the
100,000 -ŔOBAJ
)"8"*A* .BVJ
DAYTIME )6-010A& former chairman of Dole, the producer of fresh
#&"$)
TEMPERATURES fruit and vegetables. After the company stopped
Jan: 71°F (22°C); Apr: 74°F 1BDJmD #JH )JMP growing pineapples here in 1992, Murdock re-
(23°C); Jul: 79°F (26°C); 0DFBO *TMBOE
Oct: 77°F (25°C) directed the island towards tourism. While the
island’s image as an upscale resort is largely ABOVE Sunbathers crowding the golden sands of Waikīkī
deserved, Hulopo‘e Beach is an exception. As with Beach, Honolulu
Most mornings, you can stroll along the rich all Hawaiian beaches, it’s always open to the public,
golden sands of delightful Hulopo‘e Beach, Lāna‘i and with regular ferries from Maui docking a few
and have the place to yourself. Oh, there’ll be a hundred yards east, access is easy.
fisherman perched out on the lava boulders of The beach itself is a gem, a gentle curve of PRACTICAL INFORMATION
the headland, or you might spot a snorkeler deep, thick sand, fringed by low kiawe trees, and
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
burrowing in and out of the rock pools. Someone demarcated to the east by the russet Mānele Cone,
Fly into Honolulu International The Asian-influenced Four Seasons
from the tiny campsite, tucked away in the nearby an extinct volcanic relic. The brisk slope of the
Airport on O’ahu, from where Resort Lāna‘i at Mānele Bay (www.
woods, might even wander down. And, of course, sand into the ocean makes it ideal for swimming, you can take a connecting flight fourseasons.com/manelebay)
the local pod of spinner dolphins will probably while the offshore reef ensures that the surf to Lāna‘i ‘s airport, which is stretches upwards from near the
swim by at some point, to play and cartwheel in seldom rises to threatening levels. By Hawaiian located 12 miles (20 km) west end of Hulopo‘e, and has a
the surf before heading back out to sea. standards, the surfing conditions are relatively northwest of Hulopo’e Beach. pool, luxury spa, and plush
Five ferries (www.go-lanai.com) rooms. The plantation-style
Now compare that with the scene at Waikīkī – tame, making this a great spot to learn under safe
ply daily from Lahaina on Maui Hotel Lāna‘i is a cheaper option.
picking your way through busy traffic simply to get conditions, or simply to play on a boogie board. to Mānele Bay, close to Hulopo‘e.
Beach equipment can be rented from a small kiosk A ferry-trip from Maui to Lāna‘i When to Go
It makes very little difference
near the west end, and the park area set back from costs around US$40.
what time of year you visit
the center holds public showers. Where to Eat Hulopo‘e Beach. From January
The whole bay forms part of a marine preserve – Lāna‘i City, 8 miles (13 km) from to April, there is slightly more
hence the dolphins – so the snorkeling conditions Hulopo‘e, has several appealing rainfall and the sea is a little
local restaurants, but the only
are superb, especially early in the day. In winter, rougher, but this is also peak
place to eat near the beach is in whale-watching season.
when humpback whales are frequently visible the Four Seasons. Its open-air
out to sea, snorkelers are also able to hear their Hulopo‘e Court restaurant Budget per Day for Two
underwater songs. An ancient Hawaiian fishing (www.fourseasons.com/ US$475 for food and
accommodations at the
village, inhabited for around 500 years, formerly manelebay) serves irresistible Four Seasons Hotel.
stood at the west end of the beach; ruined stone seafood dishes such as delicious
fresh fish steamed in banana Website
homesites are still visible in the dunes, with
leaves (laulau). www.gohawaii.com
ABOVE Snorkelers in the waters off Lana‘i explanatory placards alongside.

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