Page 30 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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BEACHES

FORGET TULUM?

THE BUILD-UP It’s not difficult to see why
the crowds first flocked to Tulum with its
picturesque stretch of coastline and evocative
Mayan ruins overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
THE LETDOWN An astonishing 11 million
visitors arrive every year in the small Mexican
state of Quintana Roo, a sizeable proportion of
whom visit Tulum to view the Mayan ruins,
Mexico’s third-most-visited archaeological site.
Tulum may not be Cancún, that poster child for
over-developed Caribbean resorts, but the latter
ABOVE Columns of the Temple of Isis towering over the ruins of Sabratha is just a short drive away and its tour buses spill
beside the Mediterranean, Libya
daily into Tulum. You’ll spend most of your
Sabratha full pantheon of Roman divinities, traces of the before everyone else discovered it.
time lamenting the fact that you didn’t visit
city’s Phoenician origins, and ancient Greek
vs Tulum inscriptions litter the site within its Byzantine-era GOING ANYWAY? Whatever you do, stay in
Tulum itself. Once the day-trippers return to
wall. Together they form an extraordinary seaside
monument to the great civilizations of Cancún, find a secluded vantage point in the
expansive Mayan ruins of Zamá, close to sunset
Sabratha’s beaches, lined with ancient Mediterranean antiquity. – this is the moment when you’ll most
It was from Sabratha’s port, alongside its small
temples, are a quiet contrast to Tulum understand Tulum’s charm.
beach, that ships set sail for ancient Rome, laden
with olive oil destined for Roman tables and
elephants earmarked for gladiatorial conquests.
NEED TO KNOW
Sabratha ranked among Rome’s most prosperous
LOCATION Sabratha lies .FEJUFSSBOFBO cities on African soil, and for all its claims of fealty
50 miles (80 km) east of the 56/*4*" 4FB
Libyan capital, Tripoli, along 4"#3"5)" to the gods, was known for its devotion to the cult
the Mediterranean coast of of excess – in the Seaward Baths that overlook the
northwestern Libya 4VSU
beach and the broad sweep of coastline, fragments
VISITORS PER YEAR &(:15
-*#:" of mosaic and marble peer out from beneath
Around 60,000
(IÈU
DAYTIME centuries’ accumulation of sand and footprints.
TEMPERATURES Jan: "M ,VGSBI On the sandy beach itself, it doesn’t take much ABOVE Visitors touring the archaeological site of the Mayan
54°F (10°C); Apr: 66°F (19°C); /*(&3 ruins at Tulum, Mexico
Jul: 82°F (28°C); Oct 75°F (24°C) $)"% imagination to visualize yourself surrounded by
toga-clad Romans enjoying the warm, southern
Mediterranean sun. Once in the water, the view
If Sabratha were anywhere but in Libya, this is exceptional – here stand the impressive
pristine coastline would be overrun by resorts of Corinthian columns of the Temple of Isis, the
the kind that spoil your view at almost every turn goddess of seafarers, on a promontory away to the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
in Tulum, Mexico. This is Tulum as it used to be, east; there, the three-story fortress-like walls of
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
before it was discovered by the packaged tour Sabratha’s theater, one of the most exquisite The nearest international airport Most travelers visit Sabratha as
crowd – a sweeping coastline of white sand and structures in the ancient Roman empire. is at Tripoli. Although buses and a day trip from Tripoli, not least
waters of transparent turquoise. As the Romans knew, swimming here is one of shared taxis run regularly because the former has few
All along the coast from Tripoli to Zuara, with the great bathing experiences on earth, not least between Tripoli and Sabratha, habitable hotels. A fine choice
visas for Libya are only possible among many in Tripoli is Zumit
Sabratha at its midpoint, empty roads lead down because Sabratha is how all seaside resorts once
as part of a guided tour in which Hotel (www.zumithotel.com).
to empty beaches. There are built-up areas and were, albeit a very long time ago. all transportation is included.
even occasional half-hearted approximations of When to Go
Where to Eat May–Sep offers great swimming
resorts, but such places are rare and overflow in Restaurants catering to tourists weather, but the heat outside
summer with Libyan families, not sun-starved across Libya serve banquet-style the water can be oppressive.
Europeans. Elsewhere along this often-deserted meals that include soup, salad, Milder temperatures make
coast, you could spend an entire day on the beach and a local main course, usually Oct–Apr more agreeable.
rice or couscous with meat or fish.
and not see another living soul. Budget per Day for Two
Mat’am Bawady (tel. +218 24
The only exception to this rule is a pretty 620 224) is a good option. The Your visit to Sabratha, including
special one. In Sabratha itself, the Roman city of best place to eat in the capital is accommodations and meals, will
the same name dominates the Mediterranean Tripoli’s fish market – you simply be included in the cost of your
guided tour while in Libya.
shoreline, a forest of columns in light sandstone select your fresh seafood and
have it cooked in a popular Website
rising from the sandy soil where other, more
restaurant in the market area. www.arkno.com
famous beaches have palm trees. Temples to the ABOVE Detail of the floor mosaic in the Seaward Bath ruins

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