Page 44 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Kicking Horse

vs Whistler

If you want your skiing steep, deep, and powdery, forget the oft-visited, rain-drenched ski runs of Whistler and
head east into the frosty splendor of Kicking Horse, Canada’s coolest ski resort

even has the finest mountain restaurant in Canada, Mounties and grizzly bears. The resort’s satellite
NEED TO KNOW
when you need a break from the action. You can town of Golden may not live up to its name, but it
LOCATION Kicking Horse is set sit in said Eagle’s Eye Restaurant at a height of is a utilitarian blue-collar logging town that is far
amid high mountains and forests
above the Columbia River Valley 7,700 ft (2,350 m), gaze out across the snow-draped removed from the glamor that defines much of
and the town of Golden in Selkirk, Purcell, Kootenay, and Rocky Mountain Whistler (so much the better, some might say).
southeastern British Columbia
ranges and wonder about all the fuss over the The real gold however, lies 7 miles (11 km)
SKIABLE AREA $ "/"%"
4 sq miles (11 sq km) ,*$,*/( )034& big guy to the west. uphill from Golden, where Kicking Horse’s small
SEASON Dec–Apr 7BODPVWFS $BMHBSZ Whistler may have vast amounts of terrain and selection of recently built hotels, bars, and
0UUBXB
ACCESSIBILITY Roads are 5PSPOUP the famous big vertical, but who wants to ski if restaurants greets you, and the powder-white
well maintained, although access 6 4 " it’s raining on the lower slopes and draped in bulks of the 8,035-ft (2,450-m) Blue Heaven and
may be difficult in snowy conditions
clouds on the upper slopes? Kicking Horse is the 7,900-ft (2,410-m) Terminator Peak loom above.
skier’s ski resort – the focus is on those wanting From these radiate a series of ridges from which
For years, Whistler has been the big boy of the to push themselves on challenging terrain, where deep chutes descend, attracting keen skiers from
Canadian ski scene, and with its hosting of the the skiing comes first and everything else, from all over the world. Almost every run off the two
2010 Winter Olympics, that situation is unlikely to nightlife to ease of access, is secondary. And, main ridges, CPR and Redemption, is a double
change soon. Yet, on the opposite side of British because of its ideal location, you often get the black diamond and the exciting descents that they
Columbia (BC), there is a far smaller resort which light, dry snowfall referred to as “champagne offer take you into snowy bowls, where a good,
proves that big isn’t necessarily best. powder,” which is great for skiing. hard turn will see the powder arcing over your
Kicking Horse, in the Canadian Rockies, has Just getting here is a mini adventure in itself – shoulder into a long, dry plume that hangs in the
skiing that will challenge the very best, is surrounded the spectacular drive from Calgary takes you air for several seconds after you’ve passed by.
by classic mountain wilderness and, to top it all, through the kind of scenery that was made for Who wouldn’t travel to the other side of British
Columbia for all that?

FORGET WHISTLER? PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Getting There and Around Where to Stay
THE BUILD-UP Huge vertical, a massive off-piste area, great lift The nearest international airport The award-winning Copper
system and buzzing nightlife make Whistler one of the world’s is at Calgary, about a 3-hour Lodge (www.kickinghorseresort.
most popular ski resorts – you’ll literally encounter skiers and drive to Golden. Shuttle services com) is boutique hotel
boarders from every corner of the globe on the resort’s slopes. from the airport to the resort are accommodations at its best, and
also available. The road is well it’s just a short walk from the
THE LETDOWN Being so popular means it’s often busy on the maintained but the drive may be Golden Eagle Express Gondola.
lifts, on the slopes, and in the bars and restaurants. So if you like difficult in heavy snow.
When to Go
peace and quiet, this may not be for you. Whistler is located Where to Eat The season runs Dec–Apr. Skiing
relatively close to the Pacific Coast, which means the frequent The dining is just adequate, is possible before and after the
snowfalls here can be heavy in every sense of the word. While except at Eagle’s Eye Restaurant “official” season, but there will
bluebird days and powder are not uncommon, you may also (www.kickinghorseresort.com). be no lift access.
spend day after day under leaden skies and maybe even rain. Located at the mountaintop and Budget per Day for Two
only accessible via the Golden
ABOVE Skiing enthusiasts parking their skis outside a Eagle Express Gondola, this is an US$280 including food, lift pass,
GOING ANYWAY? Travel outside peak holiday periods to avoid busy mountain restaurant at Whistler absolute must for its sensational ski rentals, and lessons.
the crowds; plan for alternative activities, should the weather locally produced food and Website
turn bad. Fortunately, Whistler has heaps of options. magnificent views. www.kickinghorseresort.com

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