Page 89 - Off The Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 2 of 2)

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Lyonnaise Cuisine ART AND CULTURE

vs Parisian Cuisine

Paris has an enviable gastronomic reputation, but Lyon has a great deal of culinary credibility, too.
In fact, where food is concerned, France’s second city has the edge

rich apple tarts – simple home-style cooking at its
NEED TO KNOW
rustic best, washed down with a glass or two of
LOCATION Lyon is in 6/*5&%
,*/(%0. -JMMF Beaujolais. This is, after all, the wine’s heartland.
the Rhône-Alpes region of
France, 290 miles (465 km) 1BSJT In fact, in Lyon the third Thursday of November
southeast of Paris 4USBTCPVSH sees a serious celebration of the arrival of
VISITORS PER
'3"/$& Beaujolais Nouveau – the new season’s wine.
YEAR 6 million 48*5;&3-"/%
DAYTIME #BZ PG -:0/ Come midnight on the Wednesday, the Place
#JTDBZ
TEMPERATURES #PSEFBVY *5"-: Bellecour is alive with music, fireworks, and people
Jan: 39°F (4°C); Apr: 57°F hanging out to taste the new vintage. It’s an event
(14°C); Jul: 72°F (22°C); .BSTFJMMF
Oct: 63°F (17°C) .FEJUFSSBOFBO that’s been dubbed “the Beaujolympics.”
41"*/
4FB In addition to its down-to-earth eating
establishments, Lyon has its stellar performers. ABOVE Panoramic view of Lyon from Fourvière Hill
The battle for gastronomic supremacy between Veteran super-chef Paul Bocuse, a proud local, has
Lyon and Paris has long been waged. Sure, Paris has his Michelin 3-star restaurant here. (He also runs a at Pupier, silky foie gras at Rolle, glossy meat at
the tower, the museums, the shops, and myriad string of brasseries, so the great man’s tastes are Maurice Trolliet, and plump andouillettes at
eateries in every neighborhood, but it’s Lyon that’s available to all pockets.) As revered as Bocuse are Bobosse. Sample the lemon verbena or strawberry
top when it comes to food, with the highest ratio of the nearby Côtes du Rhône vineyards, home to the and basil macaroons at Sève. And then, sustained
restaurants to people in the whole of France. famed Condrieu, Château Grillet, Saint Joseph, and by coussins (pillows of almond paste filled with
Unique to Lyon is the bouchon – a traditional Côteaux de l’Hermitage wines. chocolate ganache), roam the charming
bistro dishing up 100% Lyonnaise food. Think If you’re still in any doubt about the gastronomic passageways of Vieux Lyon and salute the city
herring and potatoes soused in oil, sausages in all wonders on offer in the city, take a wander around and its cuisine from one of the floating bars on
their guises (including tripe andouillettes), chunky the Halles de Lyon–Paul Bocuse market to see the banks of the Rhône.
terrines, lentils and pork, juicy chicken and buttery- creamy clouds of cheese at Maréchal, briny oysters
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Getting There and Around and French classics: pigeon cooked
FORGET PARISIAN CUISINE? TGV trains run regularly from in Dijon mustard, poached quince
Paris to Lyon. Lyon-Saint Exupéry with fresh figs and almond cream.
THE BUILD-UP The French passion for food is a huge airport is 16 miles (25 km) from Where to Stay
part of life in Paris, with bistros and regional restaurants, the town center. A shuttle bus The all-white, very modern
from modest to upscale, proudly flying the French flag. runs every 20 minutes. To get Collège Hôtel (www.college-
around Lyon city center, take
Also on offer are Japanese, North African, Caribbean, hotel.com) in Vieux Lyon used
trains, trams, or buses. Bicycle
Vietnamese, and Chinese cuisine, as well as that from to be a university dormitory and
rental is another option.
every part of the Mediterranean. And, of course, Paris is still has a fun, school theme.
Where to Eat
the headquarters of haute cuisine. When to Go
Head for the atmospheric La Try to visit in June or September;
Meunière (www.la-meuniere.fr)
THE LETDOWN You can spend a lot of money on food in July and August get very crowded.
bouchon for its Lyonnaise salad
Paris without even trying. And without a recommendation, Budget per Day for Two
buffet table, including cervelle
finding a good-value eatery can be hit and (mostly) miss. de canut (cream cheese with If you eat in bouchons and stay in
ABOVE A rare opportunity for good-quality food at
The city is a tourist mecca and prices are heavily inflated in a mid-range hotel, expect to spend
economical prices – Chartier, in Paris’s 9th arrondissement shallots and herbs), shredded
popular areas, where the food rarely corresponds to the bill. beef with lentils, and Beaujolais US$260 per day. Any splurges on
drawn straight from the cask. Michelin-starred restaurants will
GOING ANYWAY? Book ahead at famous or popular restaurants, and confirm the reservation the day before. The Michelin 2-star Nicolas Le significantly add to the expense.
Read up on where to eat before you visit. And bear in mind that many places that are hard to get into in the Bec (www.nicolaslebec.com) Website
evening are sometimes much easier to get a table at for lunch. serves an original take on regional www.lyon-france.com

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