Page 130 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans

128  NE W ORLEANS AREA B Y AREA

Degas was charmed with
America and especially New
Orleans. Several important
paintings evolved from his
sojourn here, despite the fact
that he did not venture far from
the house for fear of the intense
New Orleans sun affecting his
eyesight. The Cotton Buyer’s
Office (1873) shows his uncle
with several members of his
family, including the artist’s
own brothers René and Achille,
Some of the city’s most poignant tombs at St. Louis Cemetery #3 who both worked in the
8 St. Louis famous “quadroon balls” were cotton business.
The Esplanade house,
Cemetery #3 held. Lafon also sponsored which dates from 1854, has
an orphanage for African- Greek Revivial details and
3421 Esplanade Ave. Map 2 B1.
Tel 482-5065. @ 48, 90. Open 8am– American children. cast-iron balconies. The house
4:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am–4pm Sun. is beautifully maintained
Closed Mardi Gras. throughout and offers bed
9 Fair Grounds and breakfast accommodations
This pristine cemetery, with 1751 Gentilly Blvd. Map 2 C1. (see p164), as well as welcoming
its beautiful wrought-iron gates, Tel 944-5515. @ 48. & 7 visitors during the day. Many
opened in 1856. Among the ∑ fairgroundsracecourse.com reproductions of Degas’ work
notables buried here is Antoine are on display.
Michoud, the original owner of In the mid-1800s, New Orleans
a plantation which is now the was a leading center for horse q Cypress Grove
site of the NASA plant where racing. The Creole Racecourse
in the 1960s. There is also a operated during the 19th Cemetery
memorial to architect James century on what is now the 120 City Park Ave. Map 1 C2.
Gallier, Sr. (see p97) and his Fair Grounds. When Metairie Tel 482-0233. @ 40, 46.
wife, who are buried in Metairie Racecourse closed, the Open 8am–4:30pm daily. 7
Cemetery. Both were tragically Louisiana Jockey Club took
killed when the steamer over and purchased the This cemetery, established
Evening Star sank en route Luling Mansion just by the Firemen’s Charitable
from New York to New Orleans off Esplanade as a Association, was laid out
in October 1866. clubhouse. The name in 1841. The impressive
Other famous figures here change occurred when Egyptian-style gate
include Father Rouquette, the Fair Grounds leads into a grave yard
missionary to the Choctaw, and Corporation took over filled with handsome
black Creole philanthropist in 1940. Races are run memorials. Many of the
Thomy Lafon, owner of the old here from November tombs are dedicated to
Orleans Ballroom, where the to March, and in individual firefighters,
April, the Fair Grounds such as Irad Ferry,
host the New Orleans who lost their lives
Jazz Fest (see p42). in the line of duty.
The track also has a slot Marble statue at Ferry’s tomb, which
machine casino that is Cypress Grove features a broken
open year round. column, was designed
by the famous architect
J. N. B. de Pouilly (see p85).
0 Degas House The cemetery also contains
a large number of rich
2306 Esplanade Ave. Map 3 D3.
Tel 821-5009. @ 48. Open by Protestants, who were buried
appointment only. & 8 here after Girod Cemetery
∑ degashouse.com began to deteriorate. Many
of the tombs have remarkable
Calling himself “almost a son of ironwork, like the weeping
Louisiana,” Impressionist painter cupid gate which is crowned
Edgar Degas (1834–1917) with lovebirds and set between
visited his uncle, Michel Musson inverted torches.
Period furniture in the dining room at (see p109), at this house from An extension to Cypress
Degas House October 1872 until March 1873. Grove was built right across the

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