Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New Orleans

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

New Orleans Area Map
The colored areas shown on this New Orleans Area by Area
Most of the sights described in this guide lie within the five
areas shown on the map below. Each of these areas has its
map (see inside front cover) are the own chapter. The center of New Orleans – the Upper and Mid-City
Lower French quarters, and the Warehouse and Central
Business Districts – is relatively compact and easy to get
five main sightseeing areas used around, and the suburbs are served by convenient
transport links. As one of the busiest international ports
in the country, the city is constantly growing; the sights
in this guide. Each is covered in a outside the city limits are described in Beyond New Orleans Quarter, Marigny,
(see pp138–59).
Lower French
full chapter in New Orleans Area and treme
Pages 68–85
by Area (see pp46–137). They are MAriGNy
highlighted on other maps treMe QUArter
LOwer
FreNCh
throughout the book. In New Mid-City 0 kilometer 1 Upper FreNCh
QUArter
Orleans at a Glance, for example, Pages 116–129 0 mile 1 CeNtrAL BUsiNess
wArehOUse ANd
they help you locate the top distriCts Upper French Quarter
Pages 52–67
sights (see pp38–9).
GArdeN distriCt
ANd UptOwN
M i s s i s s i p p i
Garden district warehouse and
and Uptown Central Business
Pages 100–115 districts
Pages 86–99
Numbers refer to each Practical information provides everything you
sight’s position on the need to know to visit each sight. Map references
area map and its place pinpoint the sight’s location on the Street Finder
in the chapter. map (see pp218–26).
Detailed information
56  Ne w Orlea N s a rea b y area Upper Fre N c h Q U ar ter  57
3All the important sights in New Orleans
1 Jackson Square and everyday artifacts of the
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. period. A gift shop occupies are described individually. They are
the ground floor.
Today, an attractive and lively
meeting place, this square was 4 Pontalba
named the Place d’Armes in the
early French colony, when it Buildings listed in order, following the numbering
was little more than a muddy St. Peter and St. Ann Sts. Map 5 D2.
field. Here, the troops were v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. - =
drilled, criminals were placed
in the stocks, and executions In 1848, Baroness Micaela on the area map at the start of
were carried out. In 1850, it Pontalba supervised the
was renamed for the hero building of these block-long
of the Battle of New Orleans apartments flanking the the section. Practical information
(see p19), after the Baroness Jazz band playing in Jackson Square uptown and downtown sides
Pontalba paid for its of Jackson Square. They were
beautification and laid out The park is landscaped in a 2 St. Louis erected for over $300,000, and
the gardens and pathways radial pattern, with walkways Cathedral, Cabildo, at the time they were con sidered Interior of Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré includes a map reference, opening
of the square as they exist stemming out from the center the best and the largest
today. Under her auspices, and there are plenty of benches and Presbytère apartments of their kind. Lower Pontalba Building, but building where Faulkner wrote
the Pelanne brothers to sit and enjoy the charm See pp58–9. At the age of 15, Micaela had in 1922, the current site was his first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
designed the hand some of the historical houses. married the foppish aristocrat bought and was used for the in 1925. hours, and telephone numbers. The
wrought-iron fence Outside the park, diverse Celestin Pontalba, a distant first American productions of
that encloses the artists rent space and 3 The 1850 House cousin, and moved to Paris. Eugene O’Neill’s Beyond the 7 Père Antoine
square. At the hang their works on 523 St. Ann St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568- There, her father-in-law tried to Horizon and Oscar Wilde’s Lady
center stands a the enclosing fence, 6968. @ 5, 55. Open 10am–4:30pm force her to sign over her entire Windermere’s Fan. It is a pretty Alley and St. key to the symbols is on the back flap.
statue of General and there are plenty Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 estate. When she refused, he building with a beguil ing Anthony’s Garden
Andrew Jackson of artists waiting to attempted to kill her, but courtyard and fountain. Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
astride a rearing draw your portrait In the Lower Pontalba Build ing, succeeded only in shooting In 2011, the board of directors
horse, which was Water vessel in the or caricature. On the this museum recreates an off two of her fingers. decided to convert part of the This alley is named for one
sculp ted by Clark 1850 House flagstones around antebellum apartment. The She courageously separated building into an eatery due to of the city’s most beloved
Mills for $30,000. the square, tarot three-story residence above the from her husband in 1848 and the severe financial problems clergy men, Father Antonio de
The inscription, “The Union card readers, jazz musicians, ground-floor space is accessed returned to New Orleans. The faced by the theater. The Sedella (Père Antoine), who
must and shall be preserved,” and clowns entertain visitors by a dramatic circular staircase. baroness, like her father the restaurant is run by the famous served as pastor of St. Louis
on the plinth was added by throughout the week. There are The bedrooms contain all philanthropist Don Andrés Dickie Brennan. Cathedral for 40 years. He was
Union General Benjamin also shops on the ground level the innovations of their day, Almonester y Rojas, was a The theater hosts an annual loved for his compassionate
“Beast” Butler, when he of the Pontalba Apartments, including walk-in closets and developer. With plans brought season of perfor mances from ministry to the poor, whom he
occupied the city during the selling gifts, clothing, candy, private bathrooms. Also back from Paris, she proceeded September to June; it is advised assiduously fed and clothed.
American Civil War (see p20). and ice cream. displayed are decorative arts to build apart ments like the you call ahead if you wish to The fenced garden, once
ones she had seen in Paris. buy tickets. It also acts as a a popular dueling ground,
Architects James Gallier and head quarters during the features a great sculpture of
Henry Howard drew up the Tennessee Williams New the Sacred Heart. In the early
plans. The design of the initials Orleans Literary Festival and morning and evening, the scent The visitors’ checklist gives
A and P (for Almonester and Writers’ Conference. of sweet olive lingers in the air.
Pontalba) in the cast-iron
railings of the galleries and
balconies is attributed to one of 6 Pirate’s Alley all the practical information
the baroness’s sons, an artist. Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55.
5 Le Petit Théâtre Although it is named after the needed to plan your visit.
famous pirate brothers, Jean
du Vieux Carré and Pierre Lafitte (see p19), there
is no evidence here that this
616 St. Peter St. Map 5 D2. was once a pirates’ haunt or a
Tel 522-2081. @ 5, 55. Box Office: slave market. Today, the alley’s
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat.
Closed public hols. & classic bohemian atmosphere
and open-air cafés are what
This small theater was the make it worth seeking out.
brainchild of a group of actors The Faulkner House, a 58  ne w orleans area b y area upper french qu ar ter  59
called the Drawing Room bookstore where the shelves
Players, who came together in are lined with William Faulkner
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,
1916 under the management first editions as well as works Ceiling Murals
of Mrs. Oscar Nixon. Their first by other major Southern Faulkner House, a bookstore in ViSiTorS’ CHECKLiST
The Pontalba Buildings, the upriver side of Jackson Square theater was located in the authors, is located in the Pirate’s Alley Painted by Alsatian artist
and Presbytère Practical Information
Erasme Humbrecht in
For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81 1872, the murals portray Jackson Square. Map 5 D2.
different biblical stories.
this complex of buildings was the most important ensemble in Tel 525-9585 (St. Louis Cathedral);
the early colony. the cabildo, designed by Guilberto Guillemard, 568-6968 (Cabildo and
was built and financed in 1795 by Don andrés almonester y daily (St. Louis Cathedral);
Presby tère). open 10am–4:30pm
rojas. It served as a capitol for the legislative assembly of the 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun (Cabildo
spanish colonial government, and subsequently as the city hall. and Presbytère). Closed all major
from 1853 to 1911, it housed the state supreme court. the casa holidays (Cabildo and Presbytère).
& Cabildo and Presbytère.
curial, or presbytère, was built between 1794 and 1813, and 5 St. Louis Cathedral, regular
served as a courthouse until 1911. today, both buildings are services daily. 7 8 =
flagship properties of the louisiana state Museum. two earlier ∑ saintlouiscathedral.org
churches on the site of the st. louis cathedral were destroyed, . Main Altar ∑ lsm.crt.state.la.us
the first by a hurricane in 1722, the second by a fire in 1788. The carved-wood Baroque altars Transport
were constructed in Ghent,
the current building was begun in 1789 and dedicated as a Belgium, and brought to the v St. Charles Ave and Canal
Facades of important buildings cathedral in 1794. It has been substantially modified since then. cathedral in pieces.
streetcars. @ 5, 55, 81.
are often shown to help you
recognize them quickly.
Cathedral Dome
A great mural of St. Louis announcing the Seventh Crusade
was painted above the altar.
Mardi Gras Exhibits
Pieces of floats, colorful
costumes, and historic
photos bring Mardi Gras
New Orleans’ major sights to life all year round.
4Historic buildings are KEY
dissected to reveal their Napoleon’s Death Mask 1 Cabildo
2 Stained-glass windows with
figures of Catholic saints adorn the
cathedral’s interior.
interiors; museums and The museum’s collection 3 Presbytère
includes a casting of
4 St. Louis Cathedral
Napoleon’s face made
5 The clock bell, given the name
after the French emperor’s
galleries have color-coded death in 1821. . Sala Capitular “Victoire” by Père Antoine, was cast in . Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond
Paris. It has tolled hourly since 1819.
The Louisiana Purchase (see p19)
6 The steeples, the portico, and
floor plans to help you find For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81 set was in place at the time. Hurricane Katrina and storm science.
was signed in this room; this desk
the pilasters were added in 1851.
The Presbytère houses exhibits and artifacts on
the most important exhibits.
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