Page 169 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Switzerland
P. 169

patron saints of Zürich, and    Construction of the present   Bellevueplatz in the south and
       of the city’s legendary links   basilica began in about 1100,   the Bahnhofbrücke in the
       with Emperor Charlemagne.   and the west towers were   north. The most interesting
       The emperor is said to have   eventually completed in the   stretch of Limmatquai is its
       founded Zürich when he dis­  late 15th century.  southern section, lined with
       covered the graves of Felix     It was from the pulpit of the  guild houses, which have
       and Regula, who deserted a   Grossmünster that the human­  been converted into shops
       Roman legion in the Valais   ist Ulrich Zwingli preached the   or restaurants.
       and who were martyred for   Reformation. In line with     Among the finest of these
       their Christian faith.  reformist ideals, the minster   houses are Haus zur Saffran
                           was stripped of its furnishings   at No 54, dating from around
                           and decoration, so that the   1720; Haus zur Rüden at
       12                  interior is now almost   No 42, dating from the 17th
                                               century; and the adjoining
                           completely bare. However,
       Grossmünster        vestiges of Gothic frescoes as   Haus zur Zimmerleuten, an
                           well as the fine Romanesque   18th­century building with
        C3   ⌂ Grossmünsterplatz     capitals of the nave survive.  a colourful oriel window.
       # Cloister and church: Mar–
       Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–    The Grossmünster’s large
       Feb: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,   crypt contains a 15th­century
       noon–5pm Sun; tower: Mar–  statue of Charlemagne, which   15 \-=
                           originally graced the south
       Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,                  Niederdorf
       12:30–5:30pm Sun; Nov–  tower. (The present statue on
       Feb: 10am–4:30pm Mon–  the tower is a replica.) Other    C2
       Sat, 12:30–4:30pm Sun     notable features are its   Consisting of a dense network
                           Romanesque portal, with a
       ∑ grossmuenster.ch
                           bronze door (1935), and   of cobbled alleys leading
       The tall twin towers of the   stained­glass windows by   towards Limmatquai, this
       Grossmünster, or Great   Augusto Giacometti (1932).  small district constitutes
       Minster, dominate Zürich’s              the heart of the Old Town’s
       skyline from the east bank              eastern section. The main
       of the Limmat. According to             artery through this historic
       legend, Charlemagne founded    13 '     district is Niederdor fstrasse,
       a church here in the late 8th     Rathaus   a pedestrianized thoroughfare
       to early 9th century, on the    C2   ⌂ Limmatquai 55     that turns into Münstergasse
       graves of Felix and Regula.   # Only via guided tours: 10–  to the south. Niederdorf’s
       After they were killed at the   11:30am Tue & Thu (book   narrow alleys are lined with
       site of the Wasserkirche,    one month in advance)     antiques shops and art gal­
       these martyrs are said to    ∑ kantonsrat.zh.ch  leries, as well as small hotels,
       have carried their heads                cafés, restaurants, beer halls
       up the hill to the spot now   Zürich’s town hall was built on   and fast­food outlets.
       marked by the Grossmünster.  piles driven into the riverbed,
                           and the waters of the Limmat
                           flow beneath the platform on
         DADA              which it stands. The two­storey
                           building dates from 1694–8.
         The avant-garde artistic
         movement Dada came     The façade is ornamented
         to prominence in Zürich   with friezes featuring masks,
         in around 1916, as an   the windows crowned with
         anarchic reaction to the   broken pediments filled with
         senseless carnage of   busts. The marble door way
         World War I. The focus   has gilt decoration. One of its
         of the movement was   most impressive rooms is the
         the Cabaret Voltaire in   Baroque council chamber.
         Zürich and among its
         main exponents were
         Tristan Tzara, Hans Arp
         and Francis Picabia.   14 \-=
         Dada’s aim was to flout   Limmatquai
         convention and the    C2
         traditions of the artis-
         tic establishment   This riverside boulevard   A narrow cobbled street
         through irony.    follows the east bank of the   in the picturesque old
                           Limmat, running between the   quarter of Niederdorf
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