Page 122 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland
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120      SC O TLAND  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                                 CENTR AL  SC O TLAND      121

       1 Firth of Clyde                        2 Arran
       Numerous counties west of Glasgow.      North Ayrshire. * 5000. g from
       3 Helensburgh and Dumbarton in          Ardrossan to Brodick; from Claonaig
       the north; Troon and Ayr in the south.   (Mull of Kintyre) to Lochranza (Apr–
       g from Largs to Great Cumbrae;          Oct only). n Brodick (01770) 303774.
       from Gourock to Dunoon.                 ∑ ayrshire-arran.com
       n Helensburgh (01436) 820369.
                                               Arran is thought to have been
       As might be expected of                 populated as long ago as the
       a waterway that leads from              end of the last Ice Age. The
       Glasgow, a former economic              island’s Neolithic chambered
       powerhouse of the British               burial tombs, such as the one
       Em pire (see p50), to the Irish         at Torrylinn near Lagg in the
       Sea and the Atlantic, the Firth         south, indicate this. Bronze Age
       of Clyde has many reminders             stone circles can also be seen   The snowy peak of Ben Lomond rising majestically over Loch Lomond, part of the West Highland Way
       of its industrial past. Greenock,       around Machrie on the west
       some 40 km (25 miles) west    The old harbour at Brodick, with the   coast. Vikings arrived from about   3 Bute   site of struggles be tween   4 Loch Lomond
       of Glasgow, was once a ship­  Goatfell ridge in the distance  AD 800 and exerted an influence   Argyll & Bute. * 7,000. g from   islanders and Vikings in the    West Dunbartonshire, Argyll & Bute,
       building centre. Few visit for the      for more than four centuries.   Wemyss Bay to Rothesay; from    13th century. Over the last    Trossachs. 3 Balloch, Tarbet. @
       town’s beauty, but the McLean   the 1263 battle. A ferry service is   After the Battle of Largs in 1263,   Colin traive to Rhubodach. @ from   120 years or so, Bute has played   Balloch, Balmaha. n Balloch. ∑ loch
       Museum and Art Gallery, with   offered to Great Cumbrae   when Alexander III defeated the   Dunoon. n Rothesay (01700) 507043.  a more placid role as a popular   lomondshores.com National Park
       its exhibits and information    Island, which lies just off the   Norsemen, Scotland bought   holiday resort.  Visitor Centre, Balmaha: Tel (01389) 722
       on the engineer James Watt    coast. The main town on the   Arran from the Vikings in 1266.  Bute is almost an extension of     One of Bute’s attractions is   100. ∑ lochlomond-trossachs.com
       (see p28), a native of Greenock,    island is Millport, which is built     Today, visitors tend to come   the Cowal Peninsula, and the   Mount Stuart House, 5 km
       is worth a visit. Princes Pier is    around a picturesque bay.    to Arran for outdoor pur suits.   small ferry from Colintraive   (3 miles) south of Roth esay. This   Of Scotland’s many lochs,
       a departure point for cruises   The western side of the   Golf is especially popular,   takes only five minutes to cross   aristocratic house, built in 1877   Lomond is perhaps the most
       along the Clyde. Dumbarton,   Firth of Clyde is much   with seven golf courses    the Kyles of Bute to Rhubodach   by the third Marquess of Bute,    popular and best loved. Lying
       24 km (15 miles) from Glasgow   less developed, bor­  on the island, including   on the island. This route is    is set in 18th­century gardens.   just 30 km (19 miles) northwest
       on the northern bank, dates   dered by the Cowal   18­hole courses at    a long drive from Glasgow,   The features of this Gothic   of Glasgow, its accessibility has
       from the 5th century AD. Its   Peninsula with its   Brodick, Whiting Bay    however, and most people   edifice reflect the Mar quess’s   helped its rise to prominence.
       ancient castle perches on a rock   hills and lochs. The   and Lamlash.   choose to travel via Wemyss Bay   interests in mythology, religion   The loch is the largest body of
       over looking the rest of the town.  only town of note      Brodick is the   on the Firth of Clyde across to   and astronomy.  fresh water in the British Isles,
         The Firth itself is L­shaped,   in this wild country   island’s only real town.   the island’s main town, Rothesay.  35 km (22 miles) long and 8 km
       heading northwest as it opens    is Dunoon. Again once a   The more mountainous     Just 25 km (16 miles) long    + Rothesay Castle  (5 miles) at its widest point in the
       up beyond the Erskine Bridge.    Victorian holiday resort, it   parts offer some of the   by 8 km (5 miles) at its widest   Castle Hill St, Rothesay. Tel (01700)    south, where there is a scattering
       On reaching Gourock, just west    still relies on tourism for its   most spectacular hill   point, Bute has been occupied   502 691. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–   of over 30 islands, some with
       of Greenock, the Firth branches   income. For many years   walking in Cen tral   since at least the Bronze Age.   5:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–   ancient ruins. Duncryne, a small
       south to more open water.    there was a strong   Scotland. The Goatfell   The remains of the chapel at    4pm Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun. &    hill some 5 km (3 miles) northeast
       Kip Marina at nearby Inverkip    American influence in   ridge to the east of   St Ninian’s Point on the west   ∑ historicenvironment.scot  of Balloch on the southern
       is a major yachting centre, while   Dunoon due to the    Glen Rosa and Beinn   coast date from around the 6th   + Mount Stuart House  shore, gives an excellent view of
       many towns on the Ayrshire   US nuclear submarine    Golfer on the    Tarsuinn to the west   century, while Rothesay Castle,   Mount St. Tel (01700) 503877.    the Loch. Much of the area
       coast have served as holiday   base at Holy Loch that    island of Arran  have a particular   now ruined, is mostly a 12th­   Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm daily. &   became Scotland’s first national
       resorts for Glasgow since   is now closed.    rugged beauty.           century structure and was the   8 7 - ∑ mountstuart.com  park in 2002, fronted by a Visitor
       Victorian times. Largs, site of the       Robert the Bruce stayed on                                           Centre in Balmaha. In Balloch, the
       clash between Scots and Vikings   E McLean Museum and Art   Arran on his return to Scotland                    Loch Lomond Shores complex
       in 1263, has a multimedia centre   Gallery  in 1307. His followers had                                         has shops and restaurants.
       about the Vikings in Scotland, as   15 Kelly St, Greenock. Tel (01475)   already been harassing the              In general, the western shore
       well as a modern monument to   715624. Closed until Aug 2018.  garrison at Brodick Castle, then                is the more developed, with
                                               occupied by supporters of the                                          villages such as Luss and Tarbet
                                               King of England. Legend states                                         attracting many visitors. The con­
                                               that it was from Arran that Bruce                                      trast between the Loch and Ben
                                               saw a signal fire on the Ayrshire                                      Lomond, 974 m (3,196 ft), high
                                               coast that told him it was safe                                        above its eastern shore adds to
                                               to return to the mainland and                                          the spectacle. Many walkers pass
                                               launch the campaign against                                            this way since Scotland’s most
                                               the English (see p47). Parts of                                        popular long­distance foot path,
                                               the Castle still date from the                                         the West Highland Way (see p199)
                                               13th century, though it has                                            from Glasgow to Fort William,
                                               had many later additions.                                              skirts the eastern shore. Boat
                                                                                                                      trips around the loch operate
                                               + Brodick Castle                                                       regularly from Balloch Pier. The
                                               Brodick. Tel (01770) 302202.  Open                                     area is also good for watersports
                                               May–Sep: 11am–4pm (to 3pm Apr &                                        enthu siasts – speed boats, kayaks
       Largs seafront, the departure point for ferries to Great Cumbrae Island  Oct); gardens all year.  & 7 «   View of Bute with 14th-century Kames Castle, at the head of Kames Bay  and jet skis can all be rented.
       For hotels and restaurants see pp175–6 and pp186–7


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