Page 156 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland
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154      SC O TLAND  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                        THE  HIGHLANDS  AND  ISLANDS      155

                                               v Strathpeffer                 administrative centre for the   ranger-led excursions in the
                                                                              Highland Clearances, when the   summer. Further west, the road
                                               Ross & Cromarty. * 1,500.
                                               3 Dingwall. @ Inverness. n Real   tolbooth was used as a jail. All is   passes the romantic Eilean
                                               Sweets, The Pump Room, The Square,   explained in the heritage centre,   Donan Castle, connected to
                                               (07801) 759217. ∑ visitscotland.com   Tain Through Time.  the land by a causeway. After
                                                                                                  becoming a Jacobite (see p151)
                                               Standing 8 km (5 miles) east of   + Dunrobin Castle  strong hold, it was destroyed in
                                               the Falls of Rogie, the holiday   Near Golspie. Tel (01408) 633177.   1719 by English warships. In the
                                               centre of Strathpeffer still retains   Open Apr–mid-Oct: daily. & 8 -  19th century it was restored,
                                               the refined charm that made it   E Tain Through Time  and it now contains a number
                                               well known as a Victorian spa   Tower St. Tel (01862) 894089. Open   of relics of the Jacobite cause.
                                               and health resort. The town’s   Apr–Oct: Mon–Fri; Jun–Aug: Mon–Sat.
                                               huge hotels and gracious layout   & 7 ∑ tainmuseum.org.uk   + Eilean Donan Castle  Typical Torridonian mountain scenery in
                                               recall the days when European                      Off A87, near Dornie. Tel (01599)   Wester Ross
                                               royalty and lesser mortals                         555202. Open Feb–Dec: daily. & -
       The shores of the Black Isle in the Moray Firth  flocked to the chalybeate- and            ∑ eileandonancastle.com  Skye. The Torridon Countryside
                                               sulphur-laden springs, believed                                        Centre offers guided walks in
       c Black Isle        the Brahan Seer, a 17th-century   to alleviate tuberculosis. It is still                   season, and information on the
                           prophet. He was burnt alive in a   possible to sample the water at     m Isle of Skye      natural history of the region.
       Ross & Cromarty. * 9,500. 3 @
       Inverness. n (01463) 252401.  barrel of tar by the Countess of   the unmanned Water Tasting   See pp156–7.       Further north, the A832
                           Seaforth after he foresaw her   Pavilion in the town centre.                               cuts through the Beinn Eighe
       Though the drilling plat forms in   husband’s in fidelity. For local                                           National Nature Reserve, Britain’s
       the Cromarty Firth recall how oil   archaeology, the Groam    P Water Tasting Pavilion     , Wester Ross       oldest wildlife sanc tuary. Rem-
       has changed the local economy,   House Museum in the town    The Square. Open Easter–Oct: daily.  Ross & Cromarty. 3 Achnasheen,   nants of the ancient Caledonian
       the broad peninsula of the Black   of Rosemarkie is worth a visit.                         Strathcarron. @ Gairloch.    pine forest still stand on the banks
       Isle is still largely composed of                                                          n Achnasheen, (01445) 791221 or   and isles of Loch Maree, provid-
       farm land and fishing villages.  E Cromarty Courthouse  b Dornoch                          791368. ∑ visitscotland.com  ing shelter for pine martens and
       The town of Cromarty was an   Church St, Cromarty. Tel (01381)   Sutherland. * 1,200. 3 Golspie,               wildcats. Buzzards and golden
       important 18th-century port   600418. Open Apr–Sep: noon–4pm   Tain. @ Inverness, Tain. n The   The striking Eilean Donan Castle, northwest   Leaving Loch Carron to the   eagles nest on the alpine slopes.
       with rope and lace industries.   Sun–Thu; Oct–Apr: by appointment.    Square. ∑ visitscotland.com  of Glen Shiel  south, the A890 suddenly enters   Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre has
       Many of its mer chant houses   & ∑ cromarty-courthouse.org.uk                              the northern Highlands and the   information on the reserve.
       still stand. The award-winning   P Hugh Miller Museum  With its first-class golf course    great wilderness of Wester Ross.     Along the coast, a series of
       museum in the Cromarty   Church St, Cromarty. Tel (01381)   and extensive sandy beaches,   n Glen Shiel   The Torridon Estate, sprawling   exotic gardens thrive in the
       Courthouse provides heritage   600245. Open late Mar–Sep: noon–  Dornoch is a popular holiday   Skye & Lochalsh. 3 Kyle of Lochalsh.   on either side of Glen Torridon,   warming influence of the Gulf
       tours of the town. The thatched   5pm daily; Oct: noon–5pm Tue, Thu &   resort, but it has retained a   @ Glen Shiel. n Bayfield House,   includes some of the oldest   Stream. The most impressive is
       Hugh Miller Museum celebrates   Fri. &  7 limited. « ∑ nts.org.uk  peaceful atmos phere. The   Bayfield Road, Portree  (01478) 612992.  mountains on earth (Torridonian  Inverewe Garden (see p160).
       the life of theologian and geol-  E Groam House Museum  medieval cathedral (now            rock is over 600 million years old),
       ogist Hugh Miller (1802–56), who   High St, Rosemarkie. Tel (01463) 811883.   the parish church) was all    Dominating one of Scotland’s   and is home to red deer, wildcats   E Torridon Countryside Centre
       was born in Cromarty. Fortrose   Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4:30pm    but destroyed in a clan dispute   most haunting regions, the   and wild goats. Peregrine fal cons   Torridon. Tel (01445) 791368. Open
       boasts a ruined 14th-century   Mon–Fri, 2–4:30pm Sat & Sun.    in 1570; it was finally restored    awesome summits of the Five   and golden eagles nest in the   Apr–Sep: Sun–Fri. 8 7 «
       cathedral, while a stone on   & 7 ground floor only.   in the 1920s for its 700th   Sisters of Kintail rear into view at   towering sandstone mass of   O Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre
       Chanonry Point com memor ates   ∑ groamhouse.org.uk  anniversary. More recently,    the northern end of Loch Cluanie   Beinn Eighe, above the village   Near Kinlochewe, on A832. Tel (01445)
                                               the pop star Madonna chose     as the A87 enters Glen Shiel. The  of Torridon, with its breath taking   760258. Open Apr–Oct: daily. 7
                                               the cathedral for the christening   Visitor Centre at Morvich offers   views over Applecross towards   ∑ nnr-scotland.org.uk
        The Highland Clearances
                                               of her child.
        During the heyday of the clan system (see pp32–3), tenants paid their     A stone at the beach end of
        land-holding chieftains rent in the form of military service. However,   River Street marks the place
        with the destruction of the clan system after the Battle of Culloden   where Janet Horne, the last
        (see p150), landowners began to demand a financial rent, which their   woman to be tried for witch craft
        tenants were unable to afford, and the land was gradually bought up   in Scotland, was executed in 1722.
        by Lowland and English farmers. In what became known as “the year
        of the sheep” (1792), thousands of tenants were evicted, sometimes   Environs
        forcibly, to make way                  Nineteen kilometres (12 miles)
        for live stock. Many                   northeast of the resort is the
        emigrated to Australia,                stately, Victorian ized pile of
        America and Canada. The
        ruins of their crofts can              Dunrobin Castle, magnific ently
        still be seen, especially              situated in a great park with
        in Sutherland and                      formal gardens overlooking the
        Wester Ross.                           sea. Since the 13th century this
                                               has been the seat of the Earls of
                                               Sutherland. Many of its rooms
          The Last of the Clan (1865)          are open to visitors.
               by Thomas Faed                    The peaceful town of Tain
                                               to the south became an         The western side of the Five Sisters of Kintail, seen from a viewpoint above Ratagan
       For hotels and restaurants see pp176–7 and pp187–9


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