Page 180 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

178  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  179

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK sampling a few “drams” with
the locals is an essential under-
Scotland’s restaurant scene has come far rich natural larder offers in such abundance. taking on any tour of the coun-
from its once-dismal reputation, partly due In major towns and cities, it is possible to try. Lately, the old-fashioned,
to an influx of foreign chefs and cooking enjoy good meals at any budget. The more boozer has had considerable
competition from cosmopolitan
styles, as well as a greater knowledge about rural establishments are, however, less bars and posh gastro pubs.
food among increasingly discerning local flexible. Affordable, well-prepared but less Found in towns and cities, bars
diners. Visitors can now sample a wide range elaborate food is making a mark in all can be noisy and tend to attract
of international cuisine across Scotland, types of cafés, brasseries and restaurants a younger clientele with lively
with the greatest choice in Glasgow and throughout the country. The listings on happy hours and interest ing
Edinburgh. Home-grown restaurateurs pages 181–9 feature some of the best places cocktails. Gastro pubs place an
emphasis on food, serving high-
have also woken up to the world-class to eat. Note that it is illegal to smoke in A fish and chip shop on the Portobello promenade in Edinburgh quality traditional pub meals
seafood, red meat and game that Scotland’s any Scottish restaurant, bar or café. that may be prepared with
provide special play areas for herring and mackerel can all be organic or sustainably sourced
kids. In city centre bars, don’t be found in shops and restaurants, ingredients. They will also have
usually eaten between 6pm and surprised or offended to see while farms on the west coast a number of craft beers to
9pm, and no later. In Scotland signs stating the pub is for rear much of Scotland’s Atlantic choose from.
lunch is some times called over-18s only. salmon and rainbow trout.
“dinner” and the evening meal Lobsters, crabs and prawns
may be called “tea”. are also common in Scottish Recommended
Vegetarian Food waters. Recently more emphasis Restaurants
Britain is ahead of many of its has been placed on the The restaurants, cafés, brasseries
Afternoon Tea European counterparts in cultivation and conservation and pubs listed in this guide
No visitor should miss the providing vegetarian alternatives of sustainable natural shellfish have been chosen because they
exper ience of a proper Scottish to meat dishes, and Scotland is stocks, including mussels, offer quality and reasonable
after noon tea. There are many no exception. Edinburgh and oysters and scallops. value for money. They range
tea rooms all over Scotland, Glasgow have the widest choice, from inexpensive and cheerful
offering a choice of delicious but restaurants in smaller towns Fast Food cafés to fine-dining temples and
sandwiches and cakes, or Scotch and villages are also increasingly Michelin-starred restaurants. A
pancakes swimming in butter. likely to offer meat-free dishes. Scotland is rightly famed for its Scottish restaurant will serve
Vegetarians wishing to find a “fish suppers” and there are traditional dishes such as haggis,
A selection of beer and whisky on display in a typical Scottish pub wider choice than is offered by many seaside fish bars selling whereas somewhere offering
Scottish and English food should wonderfully fresh fish and chips. more flavours and contem-
Prices and Booking Breakfast, Lunch try Indian, Chinese, Middle Away from the coast, the fish p orary twists on the old is
and Dinner
All restaurants are required by Eastern or other ethnic restaur- may not be as amazingly fresh, considered modern Scottish.
law to display their current Traditionally, breakfast in Scotland ants with a tradition of but there are plenty of good Establishments highlighted as
prices outside the door. These begins with cereal and milk, vegetarian cuisine. places to choose from. Most DK Choice have been chosen
amounts include VAT at 20 per sometimes followed by bacon, also offer other options includ- for their excep tional features,
cent. Any service or cover charge eggs and tomato, and usually ing fried chicken. which may include gourmet
should also be specified. black pudding (blood sausage), Seafood Visitors to Scotland will also dishes or a spectacular location.
Wine can be pricey when haggis or white (oatmeal) With more than 16,000 km find the usual fast food chains, as All DK Choice eateries offer a
dining out in Scotland, and pud ding. It may also be (10,000 miles) of coastline, fish well as sandwich bars and “greasy memorable dining experience.
extras such as coffee and bottled accompanied by toast and and shellfish play an important spoon” cafés, which mainly
water may be disproportionately marmalade, and tea. part in the Scottish diet and serve fried food, including large
expensive compared to the cost The most popular lunchtime economy. North Sea cod, traditional breakfasts.
of the food. Service charges foods are sandwiches, salads, haddock (often smoked as
(usually between 10 and 15 per baked potatoes and ploughman’s Elegant table setting for traditional kippers or Arbroath Smokies),
cent) are sometimes added lunches (a roll, hunk of cheese afternoon tea Pubs and Bars
automatically to the bill. If service or ham and relishes), found Scottish licensing laws are
has not been included, you are mainly in pubs. A traditional Children different from the rest of Britain,
expected to leave a tip. The Sunday lunch of roast meat and mostly in the closing times of
majority of restaurants accept vegeta bles is served in some Many places welcome junior pubs and bars. In Scotland,
credit cards. Pubs often prefer pubs and restaurants. diners and some actively particularly in urban centres,
cash to cards. Generally there are three encourage families, at least many pubs stay open until
Restaurants in cities are very courses to a meal, although during the day and early midnight or even 1 or 2am.
busy, and some of the more grand hotels may have six-course evening. They may have a During the Edinburgh Festival
renowned establishments can feasts and contemporary restaur- separate children’s menu, or in August (see pp84–5), bars
be fully booked up to a month ants often offer multi-course simply offer half portions. Many often do not close until 3am,
in advance. It is advisable to tasting menus. Dessert may be will also provide highchairs. and some are open 24 hours.
reserve ahead; if you cannot followed by a range of superb Even pubs, which are all The large selection of beer
keep a reservation, cancel it specialist cheeses. Outside the non-smoking, are generally Secret Garden dining room in the Witchery and whisky available in a typical The elegant Douglas Bistro at the Douglas
by phone. larger towns and cities, dinner is relaxing their rules and some by the Castle (see p182), Edinburgh Scottish pub is impressive and Hotel (see p186), on the Isle of Arran

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