Page 144 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
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142      VIENNA  AREA  B Y  AREA                                                                    OPER A  AND  NASCHM ARK T      143

       2 Hotel Sacher                          Frieze is the Secession’s                                              by artists and designers of the
                                               best­known exhibit. Designed                                           early 20th century. Room after
       Philharmonikerstrasse 4. Map 4 D1
       & 5 C5. Tel 514560. % Karlsplatz.       in 1902, it covers three walls                                         room is filled with outstanding
       Open 8am–1am daily. 7                   and is 34 m (110 ft) long. It                                          furnishings and royal domestic
       ∑ sacher.com                            shows interrelated groups of                                           objects, ranging from a faithful
                                               figures and is thought to be a                                         recreation of Empress Elisabeth’s
       Founded by the son of Franz             commentary on Beethoven’s                                              Schönbrunn Palace apartments
       Sacher, who, according to               Ninth Symphony.                                                        to a simple folding throne that
       some, was the creator of the                                                                                   was used while travelling. The
       Sachertorte in 1840 (see p206),         5 Theater an                                                           exhibits, which range from the
       this hotel (see p199) came                                                                                     mundane to the priceless and
       into its own under Anna Sacher.         der Wien                                                               often eccentric, provide a
       The cigar­smoking daughter­             Linke Wienzeile 6. Map 3 C2.                                           fascinating and evocative
       in­law of the founder ran the           Tel 58885. % Karlsplatz. @ 59A.                                        insight into the everyday lives
       hotel from 1892 until her death         Open for performances and                                              of the imperial family.
       in 1930. During her time the            occasional guided tours. 8 twice
       Sacher became a venue for the           a month; call 588302015 for details.
       extra­marital affairs of the rich   Façade of the Secession Building, an   ∑ theater-wien.at                   0 Haydn Museum
       and noble. It is still a discreetly   example of Jugenstil style                                               Haydngasse 19. Map 3 A3.
       sumptuous hotel.                        Emanuel Schikaneder founded                                            Tel 5961307. % Zieglergasse.
                           Rubens pieces, and 17th­ century   this theatre (see p226) in 1801;                        Open 10am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun.
       3 Academy of        Dutch and Flemish landscapes,    a statue above the entrance   The Majolikahaus, one of the Wagner Apartments  Closed Mon, public hols. &
                                               shows him playing Papageno
                           as well as a 19th­century
                                                                                                                      ∑ wienmuseum.at
       Fine Arts           Austrian collection.  in Mozart’s The Magic Flute.
                                               The premiere of Beethoven’s    7 Wagner            unknown, but the church dates   As with many of the museums
       Schillerplatz 3. Map 4 D2 & 5 B5. Tel
       588162222. % Karlsplatz. v D, 1, 2, 71.   4 Secession   Fidelio was staged here in    Apartments   from 1739. The façade is an   dedicated to composers, the
       Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun & public   Building   1805. Today it hosts popular   Linke Wienzeile 38 & 40. Map 3 C2.    austere pyramidal structure,   Haydn Museum does not
       hols. & 7 ∑ akademiegalerie.at          opera performances.            % Kettenbrückengasse.  rising to a bulbous steeple, and   have a very comprehensive
                           Friedrichstrasse 12. Map 4 D2. Tel                                     has some lively Rococo reliefs   collection of exhibits: only a
       Theophil Hansen built the   5875307. % Karlsplatz. Open 10am–          Overlooking the Naschmarkt   set into the walls.  few copies of documents and
       Academy of Fine Arts in Italian   6pm Tue–Sun. Closed 1 May, 1 Nov,    6 Naschmarkt   are two remarkable apartment     Across the street at No. 45 is   scores, a piano and clavichord.
       Renaissance style between 1872   25 Dec. & 8 11am Sat. 7   Map 3 C2–C3. % Kettenbrücken­  buildings. Designed by Otto   the house where the playwright     Haydn built this house in
       and 1876. In 1907 Adolf Hitler   ∑ secession.at  gasse. Market: Open 6am–6:30pm   Wagner in 1899, they represent   Ferdinand Raimund was born in   what was then a new suburb
       was barred from entrance on the         Mon–Fri, 6am–6pm Sat. Schubert   the apex of Jugendstil (see   1790. Its cobbled courtyard is   of Vienna with money he had
       grounds that he lacked talent.   Joseph Maria Olbrich designed   Museum: Tel 5816730. Open   pp56–9). No. 38 has sparkling   lined with shops.  earned from his successful visits
         The Academy is an arts   the unusual Secession Building   10am–1pm, 2–6pm Wed & Thu.   gilt ornament, mostly by Kolo     Mariahilfer Kirche is named   to London between 1791 and
       college and also has a gallery   in Jugendstil style (see pp56–9)   ∑ naschmarkt-vienna.at  Moser. No. 40, which is called   after a 16th-century cult of the   1795. He lived here from 1797
       showing changing exhibitions.   as a showcase for the Secession        the Majolikahaus after the   Virgin Mary which was founded   until his death in 1809 and it
       These include late Gothic and   movement’s artists (see pp36–7).   The Naschmarkt is Vienna’s   glazed pottery used for the   at the Mariahilfer Kirche at   was here that he composed
       early Renaissance works, some   The almost windowless   liveliest market. It has a huge   weather-resistant surface   Passau. The Viennese church    many of his major works,
                                  building, with its   variety of market stalls and some   decoration, is the more    is in the Baroque style and is   including The Creation and The
                                  filigree globe of   of the best snack bars in the city   striking. The façade has    dominated by two towers with   Seasons. There is also a room
                                  entwined laurel   (see pp215–16). Walking west   subtle flower patterns in pink,   large steeples.  that contains some furniture
                                  leaves on the roof,    sees a profusion of stalls selling   blue and green. Even the sills   and mementoes
                                  is a squat cube    flowers, farm produce and    are moulded and decorated.    9 Kaiserliches    belonging to
                                  with four towers. The  wine, as well as cakes, bread    No. 42 next door, in historicist   Johannes
                                  motto of the foun­  and meats. The Saturday flea   style (see pp34–5), shows    Hof mobiliendepot   Brahms.
                                  ders, emblazoned in    market, rated as one of Vienna’s   what the Secession was   Andreasgasse 7. Map 3 A2.
                                  gold on the façade,   top ten fun things to do, mixes   reacting against.  Tel 5243357. % Zieglergasse.
                                  states, “Der Zeit ihre   professional antique dealers           Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
                                  Kunst, der Kunst ihre   with pure junk. Bargains can be   8 Mariahilfer   ∑ hofmobiliendepot.at
                                  Freiheit”, which   had, but it also pays to be aware.
                                  translates as: “To   No returns are accepted.  Strasse          The imperial furniture
                                  every age its art,      At No. 6 Kettenbrückengasse,   Map 3 A3 & 5 A5. % Zieglergasse,   collection, founded by
                                  to art its freedom”.   by the U­Bahn, is the simple flat   Neubaugasse. Stiftkirche: Open   Maria Theresa in 1747,
                                  Alongside the   where Franz Schubert died in   7:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 7am–11pm   gives an intimate
                                  building stands a   1828. It is signposted Schubert   Sat, 8:30am–9:30pm Sun. Mariahilfer   portrait of the Habsburg
                                  marvellous statue    Sterbewohnung. This tiny two­  Kirche: Open 8am–7pm Mon–Sat,   way of life, as well as a
                                  of Mark Antony in   room flat with music studio,   8:30am–7pm Sun.  detailed historical
                                  his chariot being   housing an elaborate grand                  record of Viennese interior
                                  drawn by lions   piano and a meagre scattering   This is one of Vienna’s busiest,   decoration and cabinet-
                                  (1899), by Arthur   of personal effects, is perhaps   pedestrianized shopping streets.  making in the 18th and 19th
                                  Strasser. Gustav   the most haunting of all   On the corner of Stiftgasse    centuries. Also included in the   Antique wheelchair in the Kaiserliches
       Columned entrance to the Theater an der Wien  Klimt’s Beethoven   memorials to the composer.  is the Stiftkirche. The architect is   collection are pieces created    Hofmobiliendepot




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