Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Vienna Area Map
The coloured areas shown on this Vienna Area by Area
Most of the sights described in this book lie within
the six areas of central Vienna shown on this map. Each
map (see inside front cover) are the of these areas has its own section in the book. A tram ride D A N U B E C A N A L
around the Ringstrasse will take you past many major sights
on either side of this road, and you can stop off at any point
six main sightseeing areas used in to reach one of the two inner or four outer areas. If time is
short, concentrate on the centre, which is small and easy to
get around: the Stephansdom Quarter is the main shopping
area and is largely pedestrianized, with a network of old
this guide. Each is covered by a backstreets behind the cathedral. The Hofburg Quarter SCHOTTENRING
reflects the grandeur of imperial Vienna and is dominated
by the Hofburg itself, including the Spanish Riding School. AND ALSERGRUND Schottenring and Stephansdom Quarter
full chapter in Vienna Area by Area Pages 108–113 Pages 70–89
Alsergrund
(pp68–181). They are highlighted on
other maps throughout the book. MUSEUM AND
TOWNHALL
QUARTER
In Vienna at a Glance (pp42–63), for STEPHANSDOM
QUARTER
example, they help you locate the HOFBURG
QUARTER
Museum and
Townhall Quarter
top sights. They are also used to Pages 114–135 0 metres 500 Hofburg Quarter
Pages 90–107
indicate the location of the three 0 yards 500
guided walks (pp182–9).
OPERA AND
NASCHMARKT
BELVEDERE
Opera and Naschmarkt QUARTER
Pages 136–143
Belvedere Quarter
Pages 144–159
Numbers refer to each
sight’s position on the Practical information provides all the detail you need
area map and its place to visit every sight. Map references pinpoint each sight’s
in the chapter. location on the Street Finder map (pp262–7).
78  VIENNA AREA B Y AREA STEPHANSDOM QU AR TER  79
2 Deutschordens- headquarters here in order to
kirche be near the Old University,
which they controlled. The
Singerstrasse 7. Map 6 D3. Tel 5121065. Jesuit order was the dominant
% Stephansplatz. @ 1A, 2A, 3A. force behind the Counter-
Church: Open 7am–6pm daily. Reformation and not afraid
Treasury: Open 10am–noon Tue, Thu & of making a statement. The
Sat, 3–5pm Wed & Fri. Closed Sun, Mon
& pub hols. ∑ deutscher-orden.at grand redesign of the church
highlighted their power.
This church belongs to the Order The interior is gaudy, with
of Teutonic Knights, a chivalric plump marble columns
order that was established in screening the side chapels. The visitors’ checklist
the 12th century. It is 14th- Pozzo’s ceiling frescoes are
century Gothic, and though cleverly executed using a
restored in the 1720s in Baroque trompe l’oeil effect and the
style by Anton Erhard Martinelli, Inner courtyard of No. 9 Blutgasse, the Fähnrichshof pews are richly carved. provides all the practical
it retains Gothic elements such
as pointed arched windows. some Gothic paintings and a 4 Domgasse 9 Academy of
Numerous coats of arms of Carinthian carving of St George Map 6 D3. % Stephansplatz. information needed to
Teutonic Knights and memorial and the Dragon (1457). @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Sciences
slabs are displayed on the walls. Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz 2. Map 2 E5 & 6
The altarpiece from 1520 is Domgasse boasts some E3. % Schwedenplatz, Stubentor. plan your visit.
Flemish and incorporates panel 3 Blutgasse interesting buildings, including Tel 515810. Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.
paintings and carvings of Map 6 D3. % Stephansplatz. Mozarthaus Vienna (see below) ∑ oeaw.ac.at
scenes from the Passion @ 1A, 2A, 3A. and the Trienter Hof, with its
beneath some very delicate airy courtyard. No. 6 is a house Once the centrepiece of the
traceried canopies. A local legend relates that this of medieval origin called the Old University, the Akademie
The Order’s Treasury is street acquired its gruesome Kleiner Bischofshof (Small der Wissenschaften was
situated off the church’s name – Blood Lane – after a Bishop’s House): it has a 1761 designed in 1753 by Jean
courtyard and now serves as massacre in 1312 of the Knights Matthias Gerl façade. Next door Nicolas Jadot de Ville-Issey
a museum, displaying various Templar (a religious military is the site of the house where as the Aula, or great hall. It
collections acquired by its order) in a skirmish so violent Georg Franz Kolschitzky lived boasts an impressive Baroque
Grand Masters over the that the streets flowed with and, in 1694, died. It is said that Elaborate nave of the Dominikanerkirche façade and fine rooms
centuries. The starting point blood. But there is no evidence he claimed some Turkish coffee throughout. A double staircase
is a room housing a large to support this story and the beans as a reward for his 6 Grünangergasse Canevale designed the leads up to a huge salon, one
74 
a 13th-century enthronement
siege, and later opened Vienna’s
Elaborate frescoes adorn the
72  VIENNA AREA B Y AREA STEPHANSDOM QU AR TER  73 collection of coins, medals and street’s charm belies its name. bravery in the 1683 Turkish Map 6 D3 & D4. % Stephansplatz. present church, which boasts of the grandest in Vienna. VIENNA AREA B Y AR
a majestic, rather handsome
Its tall apartment buildings
@ 1A, 2A, 3A.
ring. A second room contains date mostly from the 18th cen- first coffee house. The truth of Baroque façade. The interior ceilings of the Ceremonial Hall,
chalices and Mass vessels tury. Walk into No. 3 and see how this story, however, is doubtful. This quiet lane takes its name is equally imposing. The central the walls of which are made of
1 Stephansdom
Street-by-Street: Old Vienna 7 Dominikaner- worked with silver filigree, the city’s restorers have linked 5 Mozarthaus from Zum Grünen Anker at chapel on the right has swirling marble embellished with Rococo . Steffl or Spire VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The 137­m high
No. 10, a former guesthouse
up the buildings and their court-
plasterwork. Haydn’s Creation was
while a third displays maces,
kirche
Rococo grilles and candelabra,
(450­ft) Gothic
and there is a very beautiful
yards. No. 9, the Fähnrichshof, is
Practical Information
that was frequented by Franz
performed here in 1808 in the
daggers and ceremonial garb.
Situated in the centre of Vienna, the Stephansdom is the soul
This part of the inner city retains its medieval layout: Originally conse­ STEPHANSDOM The museum also displays particularly impressive. Vienna Schubert in the 19th century. gilt organ above the west door. presence of the composer: it spire is a famous Stephans
crated on this site in
of the city, and its towers, crypt and altars are the number-
one tourist attraction in Vienna. A church has stood on the
lanes, alleys and spacious courtyards. The influence of the 1237, the present HOFBURG QUARTER Domgasse 5. Map 6 D3. No. 8’s doorway has carvings Its casing dates from the mid- was the eve of his 76th birthday landmark. From the E5 & 6 D3. Tel 515 52 30 54.
Sexton’s Lodge (see
church is particularly evident. You can find remains of orders Baroque church QUARTER Tel 5121791. % Stephansplatz. of rolls and pretzels. It is known 18th century. The frescoes by and his last public appearance. p77), visitors can Mon–Sat, 1pm–4:30pm Sun &
Open 9–11:30am & 1–4:30pm
site for over 800 years, but all that remains of the original
such as the Dominicans, the Teutonic Knights and the Jesuits. dates from the 1630s. @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Open 10am–7pm daily. as the Kipferlhaus after a Tencalla and Rauchmiller are 13th-century Romanesque church are the Giants’ Doorway climb the stairs to a hols. 5 High M
Yet there is nothing ossified about the area: the bars and OPERA & NASCH- & ∑ mozarthausvienna.at Viennese crescent-shaped roll. especially noteworthy, as is and Heathen Towers. The Gothic nave, choir and side chapels viewing platform. & hols (Jul & Aug: 9:30am). Gui
The for mer Fürstenberg Palace,
the high altar.
restaurants on Bäckerstrasse and Schönlaterngasse are MARKT Mozart and his family occupied from 1720, has a Baroque doorway are the result of a rebuilding programme in the 14th and 15th tours in English: 10:30am Mon–
thronged with people until the early hours of the morning. Locator Map an apartment on the first floor with carved hounds racing to centuries, while some of the outbuildings, such as the Lower Sat; Pummerin Bell (lift): 9am–
See Street Finder maps 2 & 6
5pm daily (to 6pm Jul & Aug).
Dominating the area is the 137-m (450-ft) spire of the 0 Schönlaterngasse of this building from 1784 to the top of the keystone. 8 Jesuitenkirche Vestry, are Baroque additions. In a vault beneath the altar are Catacomb tours daily. 7 8 9
Stephansdom cathedral, at the very centre of Vienna. The lantern at No. 6 1787. Of Mozart’s 11 Viennese Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz 1. Map 2 E5 & . Giants’ Doorway = ∑ stephanskirche.at
gave this charming S C H Ö N L AT E R N G A S S E residences, this is the one where 6 E3. Tel 512 523 20. % Stubentor, urns containing the internal organs of some of the Habsburgs. and Heathen Towers
street its name. he is said to have been 7 Dominikaner- Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz. The entrance and twin towers Transport
% Stephansplatz. @ 1A, 2A, 3A.
composed a signifi cant number
q . Cathedral Museum happiest. It is also where he kirche @ 2A. Open 7am–7pm Mon–Sat, KEY apparently stand on the site of an
earlier heathen shrine.
8am–7pm Sun & hols. ∑ jesuiten.at
Postgasse 4. Map 2 E5 & 6 E3.
Much of this collection was of his masterworks: the Tel 5129174. % Stephansplatz,
donated by Duke Rudolf IV exquisite Haydn quartets, a Andrea Pozzo, an Italian 1 Lower Vestry
who is shown here. Schwedenplatz. @ 2A.
handful of piano concertos, and Open 7am–6pm daily. architect, redesigned the 2 The symbolic number “05” of
The Marriage of Figaro. Restored Jesuitenkirche between 1703 the Austrian Resistance Movement
for the anniversary year 2006, The Dominican order of monks and 1705 and its broad, high was carved here in 1945.
façade dominates the Dr-Ignaz-
came to Vienna in 1226, and by
Winged altarpiece in
the Mozarthaus has exhibitions
ESSIG GASSE BACKERSTRASSE DR-IGNAZ- SEIPELPLATZ POSTGASSE the Deutschordens- on two upper floors as well as 1237 they had built a church Seipel-Platz. In the 1620s the Fountain by Franz Joseph Lenzbauer on the
3 Main entrance
4 Pilgram’s Pulpit (see p76)
Academy of Sciences (c. 1755)
kirche (1520)
Jesuits decided to move their
the original apartment.
here. In the 1630s Antonio
5 Entrance to the catacombs
6 The North Tower, according to
legend, was never completed
STOBELGASSE Puchsbaum, broke a pact he had
because its master builder, Hans
made with the devil by speaking a
To Rotenturm- holy name. The devil then caused
To Kärntner strasse him to fall to his death. . Tiled Roof
Almost a quarter of a million glazed tiles cover the roof; they
days of World War II.
1 . Stephansdom Strasse S T E P H A N S - W O L L Z E I L E Detailed information on each sight 7 Southeastern entrance were meticulously restored after being damaged in the last
P L AT Z
The cathedral took
centuries to build and Johannes Capistranus
is rich in medieval and On the exterior northeastern wall of
Renaissance monuments. S C H U L E R S T R A S S E 3All the important sights in Vienna are the choir is a pulpit built after the
1456. It was from here that the
2 Deutschordenskirche B L U T G A S S E victory over the Turks at Belgrade in
A remarkable Treasury of 8 Jesuitenkirche described individually. They are listed in Italian Franciscan, Giovanni da
objects collected This pulpit detail of the apostle Capestrano (1386–1456), is said to
by German aristocrats, The Haas & Haas Matthew is from the Baroque have preached against the Turkish
lies alongside this Tea House is a Jesuitenkirche. One of Vienna’s invasion in 1451. The 18th­century
Gothic church. Baroque statue above it depicts the
charming, informal most ornate churches, it was built order, following the numbering on the triumphant saint – known in Austria
café and tea house. S I N G E R S T R A S S E G R Ü N A N G E R G A S S E by the Jesuits in the 1620s. as Johannes Capistranus – trampling
on a defeated Turkish invader.
5 Mozarthaus Vienna area map at the start of the section.
Mozart lived in a suite of rooms here K U M P F G A S S E 1147 The first 1515 Double
from 1784 to 1787. Here he wrote Romanesque 1304 Duke Rudolf IV wedding of grand­ 1711 Pummerin bell cast
children of Maximil ian
many of his great works. 9 . Academy of Sciences Practical information includes a map building on the initiates work on with children of the from remains of guns left 1948 Reconstruction
4 Domgasse The ceiling of the Rococo hall is site consecrated High Gothic King of Hungary takes by Turks on their retreat and restoration
Albertine Choir
from Vienna
by the Bishop of
This pretty street includes painted with frescoes depicting Passau place carried out
a bookshop at No. 8, the four academic faculties. reference, opening hours, telephone 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
Buchhandlung 777. 1359–1440
roofed over
1230 Second Main aisle, 1515 Anton 1556 North Tower is
southern
his pulpit
3 Blutgasse 6 Grünangergasse 0 metres 50 Key numbers, admission charges and facilities . Singer Gate Romanesque arches and Pilgram carves graveyard closed after 1916 Emperor 1945 Cathedral
1783 Stephansdom
catches fire
Franz Joseph’s
This was once the entrance for male visitors.
building
southern
Courtyards like this are This quiet lane is full of 50 Suggested route A sculpted relief above the door depicts erected on the tower built plague funeral during bombing
same ground
typical of the tenement bookshops and galleries. 0 yards scenes from the life of St Paul.
available for each sight. The key to the
houses on Blutgasse.
symbols used is on the back flap.
Vienna’s major sights
4Historic buildings are
dissected to reveal their A timeline charts
interiors; museums and the key events in
galleries have colour-coded the history of the
floorplans to help you find building.
important exhibits.
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