Page 187 - Vogue - India (January 2020)
P. 187
there when they are not in the sampling unit,” she says. “Entire countries were consumed by extreme materialism
Who wouldn’t? There are swings and open tables overlook- and rapid growth without realising their impact on the envi-
ing the green hills of Navi Mumbai. It’s hard to believe ronment. With so much wealth, there came a disregard for
you’re only 40 minutes away from one of India’s most what was being bought. We [Indians] were never like that,”
polluted cities. she muses. “All balance sheets should account for what com-
The cavity walls of the factory are constructed in a man- panies have done for the environment and not just the profi t.
ner that keeps out the heat, thus eliminating the need to You can’t just be lauded for the material wealth you create.
turn on the air conditioners. The water in the factory is re- What is the community wealth you are generating?”
cycled. An on-ground guest house is open to employees for HOAD is a registered member of the Sustainable Ap-
resting purposes. Dongre even encourages her workers to parel Coalition (SAC) and follows the HIGG Index. “Every
bring along their loved ones. “Why shouldn’t they come and year we set goals for ourselves, which we periodically re-
see where their family works? Young mothers are welcome view,” Dongre explains. “The plan is to move our produc-
to bring their kids to the factory if needed.” The familial tion from regular vendors to those that are certifi ed as sus-
spirit extends to furry friends too—her brother Mukesh tainable. All the cotton we use is from Better Cotton [the
Sawlani, the managing director of HOAD, feels strongly for largest cotton sustainability programme across the globe].”
strays and has adopted eight puppies including Cookie, a Eva Kruse, CEO and president of Global Fashion Agenda,
train accident survivor. called her a social entrepreneur. Dongre’s Grassroot line em-
Dongre is a Bandra native but lives in ploys women from the Self Employed
her airy, sunlit home in Kharghar with Women’s Association (SEWA) in Guja-
uct design, merchandising and innova- “Everyone rat. Her couture line generates jobs in
her sister Meena Sehra, president - prod-
the thousands. She fi rmly believes that
tion, during the work week and drives an India can lead the charge in showing the
MPV. Commuting to town in a luxury does beautiful world how to reverse the damage caused
car could be a routine for her, but she to the planet. “In India, to be sustainable
won’t have it. More businesswoman stores, but no comes naturally. We were never an in-
than designer, with a firm head on her human culture. Our farm animals were
shoulders, her profits have only climbed one wants a our pets. We were a land of such rich cul-
thanks to the oldest and simplest trick in ture...of Bishnoi villagers who sacrifi ced
the book: wake up, show up, repeat. You themselves to save trees.” However, sav-
can’t distract Dongre with cars or par- beautiful back- ing the world today is impossible with-
ties. She functions on a routine. A school out innovation and technology. Dongre
night is a school night, no matter what. end. I did” has a dedicated sustainability resource
Such is her work ethic that senior de- in Sangita Rohira (president – sourcing
signers in the fraternity often reach out and production), although the load is
to her for advice. shared and everyone has inputs. “All
ideas are welcome. We are not perfect, but every little change
INTO THE FUTURE makes me happy.”
Today, Anita Dongre runs five brands: Anita Dongre, the Currently, she is excited about introducing biodegradable
couture-focused label; AND does workwear; Global Desi is plastic bags in packaging, after a lot of experimentation.
an accessible fusion-wear line; Grassroot, a wholly sustain- (For the fi rst lot, she fi nalised a kind that degrades after a
able craft-focused line that empowers women workers in year.) “You need to preserve expensive clothes in protective
rural areas; and Pinkcity, a jewellery line. packaging, but there is a way around it. Yes, these bags are
Mid-interview, Dongre has to step out to sign an important more expensive than the ones available in the market, but
deal. She remains tight-lipped; we’ll hear about it in the com- you can’t be penny wise and pound foolish with cost-cut-
ing months. Delegation, trust and keeping her ear to the ting.” Another introduction is wedding lehengas in Ahimsa
ground have got her this far. Last year, the company an- silk (non-violent silk harvesting). The price point for the le-
nounced a turnover of 700 crore. I ask her how she does it. hengas will differ from the existing range, but Dongre has
“You show up every day and do your job,” she says while mak- already had requests from brides.
ing a case for persistent hard work (Dongre made it to Forbes What she is most hopeful for is the youth. “The next gen-
Asia’s Power Businesswomen list (2019) for the fi rst time in eration is very conscious. They are taking climate change
October.) “Everyone wants to make it big, but you can’t com- seriously and doing something about it. Even the trend of
promise your principles to do it.” A simple example is her everyone giving up meat—these small things will eventu-
refusal to support leather. “I have never carried a leather ally make an impact,” she says. “Consumers need to be edu-
bag, not when I was young and it was trendy, not now cated. Right now, people have turned their attention to-
when you need to be seen with one from a brand that proves wards sustainable brands because they think it is
you’ve arrived.” ‘fashionable’, and I am okay with that. Only when we make
Musing on the one topic she is interviewed on the most, the fast fashion uncool will it really hit hard. That change needs
designer strongly believes that the concept of sustainability to come from within, but at this point, I will welcome a con-
came to us from the West after years of rampant unheeding. sumer who has converted for a passing trend.” ■
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