Page 338 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal

EXPERIENCE Algarve

Cyclist on a cobbled
street in Vila Real de
Santo António

21 22 d
Vila Real de Santo Cacela Velha Castro Marim
António
! F7 n Monte Gordo, ! D7 @ n Rua de São
! F7 £ @ n Avenida Avenida Marginal; 281 Sebastião; 281 531 232
Marginal, Monte Gordo; 544 495
281 544 495 The Phoenicians, Greeks
This small coastal hamlet lies and Romans all made use
Built to a plan by the Marquês in the Parque Natural da Ria of Castro Marim’s comman-
de Pombal in 1774, Vila Real Formosa and grew primarily ding location above the Rio
de Santo António is a little like during the 17th century, when Guadiana. It was the gateway
a miniature version of Lisbon’s it formed part of the coastal to the Moorish Al-Gharb
Baixa (p74), rebuilt after the defensive system. Perching and for centuries it was a
1755 earthquake also under on a cliff overlooking the sea, sanctuary for fugitives from
the auspices of Pombal. The it is reached via a landscape the Inquisition. The castle
symmetrical grid of fairly wide of fields and olive trees. above the town is of Moorish
streets, and the equal-sized Cacela Velha has remained origin, the outlying walls a
blocks with similar façades, untouched by mass tourism 13th-century addition, and
all speak of Pombal’s practical and retains a peaceful atmos-
and political ideals (p45). phere. Charming blue-and-
Today, the town is one of white fishermen’s houses INSIDER TIP
the most important fishing cluster around the remains of Head to Spain
ports on the Algarve coast, an 18th-century fort (closed Take the 20-minute
as well as a border town, with to the public) and a white- ferry trip from Vila
its markets geared towards washed 18th-century church. Real de Santo António,
visiting Spaniards. The Igreja The beach is sheltered by a which crosses the Rio
Matriz is famous for its stained- long spit of sand, and fishing Guadiana, to Ayamonte
glass windows. The town’s boats are dotted about. The in Spain for lunch. Rem-
centre now seems too grand Phoenicians and Moors used ember to change your
for its size, all of which makes this protected site until it was watch – Spain is one
it an interesting place to taken over by the Knights of hour ahead of Portugal.
drop in on. Santiago in 1240.
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