Page 357 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 357

The 15th-century
             church on Machico’s
                 main square




            STAY


           Vila Teresinha
          Some of the pleasant
        rooms in this townhouse
          have balconies with
           great views over
             the city.
         ! B7   ⌂ Rua das Cruzes
            21, Funchal
          ∑ vilateresinha.com
             ¡¡¡
           Quinta de Casa   on the mid dle floor as    (Chapel of the Miracles). The
             Branca        an advertisement of the    present structure dates from
         A Modernist boutique   local wicker-weavers’ skills.  1815, but it stands on the site
          hotel set in its own                 of Madeira’s first church. The
         semitropical grounds,                 earlier church of 1420 was
         with a fabulous health                destroyed in a flood in 1803,
         centre and restaurant.  5             but the 15th-century crucifix
          ! B7   ⌂ Rua da Casa   Machico       was found floating out at sea.
          Branca 7, Funchal                    Machico celebrates the return
        ∑ quintacasabranca.com  ! B7   @   n Avenida Arriaga   of its cross with a procession
                           16, Funchal; 291 211 902
             ¡¡¡                               on 8 October.
                           Legend has it that Machico was
                           named after Robert Machim,
                           a merchant from Bristol, who   MONTE TOBOGGAN
                           eloped with the aristo cratic   Originally developed in
       4                   Anne of Hertford and set     the 1850s to transport
                           sail for Portugal. Caught in
       Camacha             a storm and shipwrecked on   produce to market, the
                                                 toboggan now takes
                           Madeira, the two lovers died
       ! B7   @   n O Relógio, Largo             tourists on a thrilling
       Conselheiro Aires de   from exposure. The rest of the   2-km (1-mile) descent
                           crew repaired the boat and
       Ornelas 12; 291 922 777                   from hilltop Monte to
                           sailed to Lisbon, where their   Livramento. The wicker
       Most of the wicker pro ducts   story inspired Prince Henry   baskets are steered by
       sold in Funchal are made in   the Navigator (p328) to send   carreiros (toboggan-
       and around Camacha, and the   João Gonçalves Zarco in   drivers) who control the
       sole attraction in this otherwise  search of this mysterious   speedy descent with
       sleepy village is a large shop   wooded island.  their rubber-soled boots.
       packed with every thing wicker,     Machico has been Madeira’s
       from picture frames, bedsteads   second most important town
       and cradles to peacock-backed   since the first settlements.
       armchairs. It is often pos sible   Funchal’s superior location
       to see weavers at work in the   and harbour ensured that it
       factory, which is open from   developed as the capital of
       9am to 7pm daily, bending     Madeira while Machico became
       the pliant stripped willow   a sleepy agricultural town.
       round a frame to produce      The Igreja Matriz on Largo
       a linen basket or plant-pot    do Município, dates from the
       con tainer. A Noah’s Ark full    15th century. Across the river
       of paired animals is displayed   is the Capela dos Milagres
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