Page 372 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 372

4                   press, agricultural utensils and
                            religious sculptures. West of
        São Jorge           Calheta, in the pretty parish
                            of Manadas, the 18th-century
        ! B5   ~ 7 km (4 miles) E of   church of Santa Bárbara has
        Velas   g Velas & Calheta     an atmospheric carved and
        n Rua Conselheiro Dr José
        Pereira 1, Velas; 295 412 440     painted interior.
                            Museu Francisco
        São Jorge is a mountainous
      EXPERIENCE  The Azores  (34 miles) but is only 8 km     "   ⌂ Rua José Azevedo da   through Pico’s dramatic,
                            de Lacerda
        island that stretches for 55 km
                            Cunha, Calheta   § 295 416
        (5 miles) wide. On its north
                            323   # Apr–Sep: 10am–
        coast, sheer cliffs drop to the
                            5:30pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
        sea. Over the centuries these
                                                       Sunrise over a road
                            9:30pm–5pm Tue–Sun
        cliffs have collapsed in places,
        crea ting tongues of land known
                            ¢ Public hols
        as fajãs – UNESCO-recognized
        as Biosphere Reserves.
          Today, many islanders on   5                rugged countryside
        São Jorge are engaged in the            quayside backed by rows of
        pro duction of a cured cheese,   Graciosa  stark, two-storey, white-
        queijo de São Jorge. The pace   ! B5   ~ 2 km (1 mile) W of   washed houses with wrought-
        of life is leisurely, and most   Santa Cruz da Graciosa     iron balconies and oval
        visitors come to walk along   g Praia de São Mateus     windows. The Museu da
        the paths that climb between   n Rua Castilho 7, Santa   Graciosa recalls life on this
        the fajãs. The most popular   Cruz; 295 730 246     sleepy island with a homely
        route is from Topo, on the              miscellany of toys, sea chests,
        east coast of the island,    Graciosa Island is one of the   kitchen ware, wine presses,
        10 km (6 miles) down to    most peaceful places in the   furniture and memen tos sent
        Fajã dos Cubres.    Azores, classified by UNESCO   back by emigrants to North
          Most of the settlements lie   as a biosphere reserve. Only   America. A building next door
        along the gentler south coast,   12.5 km (8 miles) long, most of  houses a whaling boat.
        including the capital, Velas,   its low-lying land is given over     The picturesque Monte da
        and Calheta, where the Museu   to farms and vineyards where   Ajuda that rises behind the
        Francisco de Lacerda displays   ox-drawn carts and ploughs   town is capped by a 16th-
        objects of local history such as  are still in use. The capital,   century fortified chapel, Nossa
        the ornate breads baked for   Santa Cruz da Graciosa, on     Senhora da Ajuda, decorated
        the Holy Spirit festival, a honey  the north coast, has a simple   with 18th-century tiles.
                                                  In the southeast lies the
                                                Furna do Enxofre, where
                                                visitors can descend flights
                                                of steps into the bowels of a
                                                volcanic crater. At the bottom
                                                is a huge cave with a deep,
                                                sulphurous lake and peep-
                                                holes where bub bling brews
                                                of evil grey liquid can be spied
                                                beneath the rocks.
                                                  Above the cave, at Furna
                                                Maria Encantada, a natural
                                                tunnel leads to the edge of
                                                the crater, offering stun ning
                                                views over the island. Treat-
                                                ments using the island’s geo-
                                                thermal waters are available
                                                at the resort of Carapacho, at
                                                the foot of the volcano.
                                                A pretty street leading
                                                to the church in Velas,
                                                on the island of São Jorge
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