Page 60 - Holidays with Kids - Volume 62 (January 2020)
P. 60

LORD HOWE ISLAND, NSW




























                                                                   Hot hotels
        04                                    05                   Arajilla Kids from six can stay at all-inclusive Arajilla, a seriously
                                                                   stylish retreat with 12 two-bedroom villas scattered amid the
                                                                   jungle. arajilla.com.au

                                                                   Somerset Apartments Families of all ages are welcome at
          The first thing you'll notice when you touch             Somerset Apartments, where spacious lodges with kitchenettes
          down on Lord Howe is the quiet. Once the   The great     have access to facilities including barbecues and laundries.
          buzz of the twin-prop fades, the only sounds   outdoors  somersetlordhowe.com.au
          are the rustling of palms and the chatter of   There aren’t many
          terns and shearwaters. Thousands of them.   places in Australia that
            A crescent-shaped drop of basalt in the   don’t have phone
          Tasman Sea, around 600 kilometres east of   reception – by choice. Lord Howe is one of   metres high, happens to be the world’s tallest
          Port Macquarie, this island is one of Australia’s   them. While some resorts have Wi-Fi, it’s slow   sea stack. There were attempts to climb the
          most important bird habitats. Its Jurassic-like   and unpredictable, so the best thing is to ditch   spearhead back in the 1960s, although
          landscapes of soaring sea cliffs and tangled   devices and make the most of the island’s   humans were banned from the islet after the
          jungle are the breeding ground for 14 species   bountiful natural assets: unspoiled and empty   rediscovery of the stick-insect-like phasmid;
          of seabirds, not to mention 130 permanent and   beaches, towering peaks and protected   once thought to be extinct. While humans are
          migratory bird species – among them the Lord   crystal-clear lagoon.     no longer permitted on land here, those over
          Howe Island woodhen, endemic and saved   Lord Howe’s waters are home to 490   the age of 10 with PADI scuba certification
          from extinction by local conservation efforts.   species of fish as well as bottlenose dolphins,   can dive into the waters that surround Ball’s
            It’s a setting so wild and wonderful that   Galapagos sharks and humpback whales   Pyramid. In addition to schools of rainbow
          Lord Howe has earned a UNESCO listing for   during their migratory season. A recent   runners, rare Spanish dancers and Galapagos
          natural beauty – one of only four global   increase in the amount of seagrass has also   whalers, you’ll also have the chance to come
          archipelagos bestowed such acclaim. It’s also   seen the island’s resident turtle population   mask-to-whisker with rare Ballina angelfish.
          the only Australian destination to make   surge, with green, hawksbill and loggerhead
          Lonely Planet’s list of the top destinations to   a common sight in the westerly lagoon.   Walk this way
          visit in 2020, coming in at number five.  Small shacks along Lagoon Beach advertise   The island is criss-crossed with incredible
            The second thing you’ll notice is that   ways to explore this watery paradise, whether   hiking trails, from scenic hour-long jaunts to
          everyone knows each other, unsurprising   it’s in a kayak or on stand-up paddleboard, or   seriously challenging walks that take the best
          given the permanent population totals just   aboard a glass-bottom boat. The latter takes   part of a day – the Mount Gower trek on the
          360 people, with daily visitor numbers capped   you over immense coral bommies before   island’s southern tip falls into this category.
          at 400 by a set number of hotel beds. The   mooring so you can don a mask and flippers   The eight-hour guided walk takes you up 875
          sub-1,000 headcount means that this “town” is   and explore shipwrecks in the company of   metres, with the trail so steep in parts that you
          one of the safest places in the country. There   enormous anemone and schools of Moorish   need a helmet and supporting ropes, bolted
          is no crime, and all accommodations have a   idols. On the other side of the island at Ned’s   into the rocky face of the cliff.
          no-key policy. Locals don’t lock their cars   Beach, you can slip $1 into an honesty box to   You don’t need a guide to tackle Goat
          either, which, when on the road, must abide   claim a bag of fish food, then wade into   House Cave on Mount Lidgbird, but you will
          by an island-wide speed limit of 25 kilometres   bathtub-warm water for a fish feeding frenzy.   need stamina. It’s only five kilometres, but it
          per hour. But consider swapping four wheels   On calm days, boats will whisk you    takes about four hours to complete; over that
          for two. Given the island is just 11 kilometres   20 kilometres out into the Pacific to Ball’s   distance you’ll climb and descend about 450
          long, cycling is the best way to get around.   Pyramid, a dramatic hunk of basalt that, at 562   vertical metres, through a forest of pandanus


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