Page 146 - WHC_Prospecuts_2021_22_Final

What the experts say

Dave MacLeod is a world- renowned performer and
author in rock and ice climbing; sports science;
sports medicine and adventure film making.

Which adventure activities are you For example, the latest research has
involved in, and how did you get to where developed nutritional strategies for all sorts
you are now? of adventure sports applications.
I climb at a high level in bouldering, sport
climbing, rock climbing, ice climbing and What are the highlights of your work,
alpinism and have climbed hundreds of new and what motivates you?
routes around the world. I’ve written two My own self coaching is the highlight and
books on climbing performance and I am a most motivating aspect of my work. It’s
blogger. I’ve also worked in the mountains always easiest to experiment with new ideas
as a filmmaker. on yourself! Also writing two books and
reading people’s stories on my blog.
What do adventure performance and
adventure coaching mean to you? What do you think the future holds for
I’m pretty obsessed with every aspect of adventure sports coaching?
training and performance. My first book 9 The development of adventure sports and
out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, the culture of performance within them blow
is essentially a behavioural science book. my mind. The benefits adventure sports
I investigated what held amateur athletes bring to wellbeing and public health are
back and found that it was behavioural recognised and there will be more resources
habits causing them to deviate from the for study and research into performance and
principles of training. I am interested in the improved facilities. Adventure sports need
interface between scientific data and the leaders with expertise and there are great
way humans make use of it. This interface is rewards for people with the imagination and
where opportunities for performance rigour to take on that role.
breakthroughs are created or lost.

What education have you had in Dave Macleod
coaching or sports science related areas?
I have a degree in Physiology & Sports
Science and a Masters in Exercise Science.
It’s critical to follow new research, so I read
a huge amount. Using new knowledge, I
have smashed my personal bests in
climbing. I also coach climbers: there is no
substitute for observing their movement,
habits and characteristics.

Where do you find the ideas of coaching
and sports science being useful to your
professional practice?
There isn’t an area where sports science

understanding is not critical for practice.

144 www.whc.uhi.ac.uk