Page 54 - BN1 July-Aug 2019 web

© by Laura Wilson, In Between Days Photography

BN1
TRIES... THE EARTH & STARS By Louisa Streeting

As I walked the short distance from my home to Earth & The first choice is Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke and
Stars, something told me I’d earnt this meal that evening. Soaked Celeriac Wellington (£13), straying away from
It’s not too long after the pub’s menu has been reimagined the conventional mushroom-based filling the vegetarian
by Brighton’s dynamic chefing duo, Wolfsmouth. The version usually offers. The thick, flakey pastry held
kitchen now offers an eclectic array of small plates (also together with every bite of the wellington, with lovely layers
functional as starters) and a variety of main dishes. of spinach, pine nut, and Kalamata Olive tapenade. The
other vegan option is slightly unusual for a roast – a tart
To start, we chose two dishes from the small plates menu: filled with heritage and sundried tomatoes, wild garlic,
crispy squid (£6) and Tempura sprouting broccoli (£6.50). chilli, and topped with char-grilled aubergine. This main
The squid was coated in a thick but delicate peppered component brings a warm kick to the rest of the meal, with
batter, which fell apart pleasantly in your mouth. The the heat of the chilli lingering comfortingly on the palette.
broccoli covered in nutty sesame seeds is cut through by The shortcrust pastry does not disintegrate under the wet
the sharpness of the sweet and sour sauce. Both dishes fillings. The tart is risk that strays away from a traditional
are large, but we finish them anyway (although, if anyone roast, but it certainly pays off.
has been to The Paradiso Social, they will know their small
plate portions are extremely generous). Both meat and vegan roasts are served with glazed carrots,
two types of cabbage, green beans, celeriac and parsnip
One of two vegan main dishes, the Panko squash burger purée, and summer peas. The purée adds such a Despite
is enormous in both size and taste. The patty used a thick the long list, I would have loved a slightly larger portion of
and fresh slice of butternut squash in a light crumb (£11). veg as they were incredibly fresh. Fear not, as extras can
I loved how the zing of the scotch bonnet jam and the be purchased for just £2.50, including seasonal greens
mellowness of the smashed avocado balanced each bite. (Yorkshire puddings are £1). The garlic roast potatoes
Pub favourite, Fish & Chips, was placed on top of the most were perfectly crisp on the outside and soft in the middle,
delicate mushy peas, puréed to perfection (£13.50). The and the dairy-free cauliflower cheese is a wonderful touch
batter was crisp and clung to the fish. We dipped thick- for the vegan roasts. Both are paired well with lashings of
cut wedges and the burger’s fries into the pub’s in-house the pub’s rich miso gravy.
homemade sauces, ketchup and vegan mayonnaise.
Holly, who looked after us, said she was now a convert Both meals were punctuated with friendly staff and a warm
from Heinz and so we took her word for it! Both sauces atmosphere inside the pub. Thank you to Holly and the
were faultless, full of flavour. rest of the team for looking after us so well. Now with five
separate sites dotted all over the city, Wolfsmouth’s mini
Wolfsmouth and Earth & Stars very kindly offered us to culinary empire continues to pick up the pace, with two
return for their Sunday Roast – an offer I could not turn new sites to be launched in a few weeks’ time. I applaud
down after our delightful evening meal in the week. My Jack and Will for their rapid expansion and continuously
dining partner and I chose the two vegan roasts due to bringing winning flavour combinations with their dishes.
their distinctiveness. Although, I did note – avid omnivores
can enjoy the choice of 60-day aged beef rump (£16),
chicken breast with pulled thigh (£14), or apple glazed and
herb crusted pork chop (£15). THE EARTH & STARS
46 WINDSOR ST, BRIGHTON
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