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TRIES... HARBY'S BAR & DINER By Stuart Rolt

I’ve always had a fondest for Brighton’s Harbour Hotel The Burger Queen, for once, didn’t have her meat shoved
and it’s reframing of British luxury hospitality. The seafront in a bap. Ribs is her new thing and here Harby’s brings
location affords sweeping vistas to the windfarm, and its A-game. The St Louis Belly Ribs (£16) are 18-hour
the arrival of its quirky glamour inspired a rejuvenation smoked and glazed with a rich barbecue sauce. Although
amongst the surrounding area. Inside this restored only a half portion, most of this generous serving will be
Regency building is a beautifully decorated bar, adorned coming home in a doggy bag. The plate is piled with
with art as diverse as Jamie Reid and Rubens. It’s a cool succulent looking meat, superbly smoky and slightly spicy
place, but still welcoming. This evening, as the longest day it separates from the bone with minimal effort. Alongside
starts to fade, the Burger Queen and myself are checking sit triple-cooked chips (£3.50), chunky and crisp on the
out Harby’s, the hotel’s bold, but somehow reassuringly outside, the fluffy centre completes a lovely melange of
familiar, new eating concept. textures.
This ground-floor restaurant has been formed into a To compliment the meal, we order a crisp Valencian
loose reimagining of the American diner. But don’t Bodegas Covinas Rama Viura (£18). This is dry, fruity and
expect checked tiles, bored waitresses or acres of light, giving suggestions of exotic fruit with a delicately
neon. Reference points are subtle, leaving the food to floral note. In fairness, it could have been a little cooler,
speak for itself. The space is larger than first impressions but the wine bucket quickly dealt with this. As we’re next to
suggest. Interesting and varied seating areas are tucked the sea, it seemed appropriate to sample some seafood.
everywhere, including some snug booths at the rear and Monkfish in Prosecco Tempura (£18) is another house
a long table to accommodate all but the mot numerous of speciality, joined by smashed peas, even more thick-cut
groups. The latter offers a superb view of the open kitchen chips (hooray!) and tartare sauce. The prosecco bubbles
and lovely stained-glass beyond. The result of excellent make the batter as light as you could ever imagine. It
interior design or luck (I can never tell), even if the place tears easily, allowing access to some delightful monkfish.
is rammed it still offers an intimate and inviting dining Sometimes not an easy fish to cook, it’s tender to the bite
experience. with a lovely sweetness in the flesh. Adding to this are
perfectly piquant tartare and subtly minted peas, to bring
To enliven both paillettes and spirits, we select a Harby’s balance to it all.
Spritzer (£7.90) to accompany our animated menu
dissection. As you guessed, this is a house special, Harby’s manager, Matilda, tells me the Harbour Group
blending Brighton Gin, Aperol, prosecco and strawberry. wanted to try something different in Brighton. “It’s a bit more
It’s summery and fruity, everyone’s favourite local brand casual and for the young people.” The menu has been
gifting a clean, slightly orange finish. The menu is dazzling designed to encourage sharing, stepping sideways from
in its plurality. There’s something for even the fussiest formal dining without compromising on inventiveness and
of eaters here, populated by thoughtful and creative taste. Where Harby’s succeeds is creating a comfortable
reimaginations of classic dishes. and inclusive environment, which gives equal attention to
omnivorous and vegan dishes. It proves great food doesn’t
Most alluring on the menu was a vegan Mac & Cheese have to be staid or pretentious.
(£4). I know a thing about sauces, my hearty roux being
the toast of Hanover. Cynically, we select this to represent We leave it at that, attempting not to over-eat despite
the extensive vegan offerings - cheese is a difficult thing to several temptations left upon the menu. Even a dessert
replicate. Considering it’s completely dairy-free, this bad- might be too much, but Matilda presses a box of beautiful
boy is interesting, even better than traditional versions I’ve cupcakes into our hands as we escape to the bar and its
sampled across the city. I won’t divulge the methodology extensive cocktail list. This presents five different Expresso
here, but if you’ve eschewed animal products, yet still Martini offerings alone, so we continue a very enjoyable
crave creamy comfort food, this may hit that spot. evening.
HARBY'S @ HARBOUR HOTEL
64 KINGS RD,BRIGHTON
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