Page 14 - HISTORY ANGKOR

S N A P S H O T S

Fit for a Queen

Pizza

Margherita

The iconic Neapolitan dish was allegedly named for
Queen Margherita of Italy after she sampled it in Naples,

but food historians say this origin story, served up for years by LUCIANO FURIA/GETTY
chefs and authors alike, is more than a little half-baked.

izza is one of the most popular Intrigued, the couple invited the chef coincidence, he had renamed as The
dishes in the whole world. This of the establishment, Raffaele Esposito, Queen of Italy Pizzeria six years be-
simple combination of baked to the city’s Capodimonte Palace to cook fore). Umberto and Margherita were in-
Pflatbread, tomatoes, and cheese the dish for them there. Esposito prepared deed in Naples when the pizza letter was
flowered in Italy and then spread to the three different kinds of pizza. One option sent on June 11, 1889. Galli was the head
United States in the early 2oth century emulated the colors of the Italian flag: It of the Services of the Table of the Royal
with Italian immigrants. Pizza’s popu- featured red tomatoes, white mozzarella, Household, and the royals did have a mo-
larity exploded in America, becoming and fresh green basil. tive to ingratiate themselves with the Ne-
ubiquitous across the nation. The following day, Esposito received apolitans, who had chafed under the high
There are many different styles of a letter from Camillo Galli, head of the taxes of the new Kingdom of Italy.
pizza, but only one has a royal pedigree. Services of the Table of the Royal House- The movement to free Italy from for-
The origin story began when the queen hold, which read: “Esteemed Signor Raf- eign rule had begun in the early 1800s. In
of Italy visited Naples in 1889. Strolling faele Esposito. I confirm that the three 1861 southern Italy and Naples was
through the streets of the city center, kinds of pizza prepared by you for her wrested from its Bourbon rulers (who

Queen Margherita and her husband Royal Highness the Queen were found were linked to Spain), and the indepen-
smelled a delicious aroma wafting from to be excellent.” Although Margherita dent Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed.
a pizzeria. enjoyed all three pizzas, she declared the The inclusion of Rome in the new king-
red, white, and green to be her favorite. dom in 1870 completed unification. In
Esposito duly named it after her, and a 1878 Italy’s second king was crowned:
classic Neapolitan specialty was born. Umberto I, with Margherita as his queen.
United Italy, its flag, and its monarchy,
Pizza and Patriotism however, were new concepts, and not
This tale, with variations, continues to popular with all. In the first year of his
be told in tourist guides, cookbooks, reign, Umberto survived an assassination
and food histories. It has the right in- attempt in Naples. Food, therefore, could
gredients for popular appeal: the fairy- be a unifier, especially a Neapolitan pizza,
tale motif of a queen sampling the food made with the colors of the flag, praised
of the common people, and the patri- by—and named for—the queen.
otic overtones embodied by the colors
of the pizza and the Italian flag. Cooking up a Myth
Aspects of the story have been verified. Was the pizza Margherita a savvy piece
Historians confirm that in 1889, Esposi- of culinary diplomacy crafted by royal of-
to was the owner of a pizzeria (which, by ficials? Having the royal family sample

the food of the people would be a way to
win over hearts and minds. Traditionally,
HUSBAND AND WIFE, RAFFAELE ESPOSITO
AND MARIA GIOVANNA BRANDI the origin story has been interpreted that
BRIDGEMAN/ACI

12 MARCH/APRIL 2022