Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

6  how t o use this guide

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

this guide will help you get the most from with maps, photographs and illustrations.
your stay in Northern spain. it provides suggestions for food, drink, accommodation,
both expert recommendations and detailed shopping and activities are given, as well
practical information. the guide maps the as tips on everything from the spanish
region and sets it in its historical and cultural telephone system to travelling to and
context. the important sights are described, getting around the region.

Northern Spain Region NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION  53
by Region GALICIA
Remote in the northwest corner Introduction
of the Iberian peninsula, Galicia is a
In this guide, Northern green, rainswept region remarkable 1The history and character of
for the diversity of its landscape,
Spain has been divided into five where coastal cliffs alternate with lowlands and rías. The region is famous each region is described here,
for its excellent cuisine, while pilgrims flock here to visit the city of Santiago
de Compostela. The Galicians, whose origins are Celtic, are fiercely proud
of their culture and language.
regions, each of which has its Traditionally, Galicia was seen as a poor to the economy, and Galician seafood showing how the area has
agri cultural region, whose economy is the best in Spain. The coast line, cut developed over the centuries
own chapter. A map of these did not lend itself to modernization. with fjord-like rías, is dotted with fishing
villages. Enormous efforts have been
It absorbed little Roman influence, was
never con quered by the Moors, and in made to clean up damage caused by and what it has to offer the
the 2002 sinking of the Prestige oil tanker,
regions can be found inside of the kingdom of Asturias. It was only and most of the coast has now recovered. visitor today.
the Middle Ages fell under the control
very briefly an independent monarchy,
Mainland Spain’s most westerly
the front cover of the book. in the 10th and 11th centuries. point – the heather-clad Cabo Fisterra –
is situated on this rugged stretch of coast.
Bordering Portugal to the south and
enclosed by the waters of the Atlantic
Even more magical is the pilgrimage
Ocean, Galicia could offer its inhabi tants centre of Santiago de Compostela,
The most interesting places little in the way of new land for cultivation; the region’s capital. Romantic hillsides
shrouded in mist conceal the remains
overpopulation and unem ployment
forced many to emigrate. Yet, in the of Celtic settlements; at road junctions
to visit in each region have 20th century, Galicia began to develop, and in the towns stand weathered stone
and today traditional life styles rub
crosses, while in the villages old granaries
shoulders with modernity. can be seen. The picture is completed
Galicia has always maintained strong
been numbered and plotted links with the sea; the port cities of Vigo by the sound of Galicians’ favourite
instrument – the bagpipes – and their
and A Coruña are centres of cul ture,
commerce, and industry. Fishing is vital language, gallego, which bears strong
similarities to Portuguese.
on a Regional Map. A locator map shows the
region in relation to the rest
of Northern Spain.
The picturesque Galician coast in the vicinity of Ézaro, near the remote headland of Cabo Fisterra
Each area of Northern Spain The façade of the Convento de San Martiño Pinario, in Santiago de Compostela
176  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION CENTR AL AND EASTERN P Y RENEES  177
can be quickly identified by its
colour coding. Exploring the Central and Getting Around
Eastern Pyrenees
The best way of getting around the Central
and Eastern Pyrenees is by car, but take
The two gateways to the Aragonese high Pyrenees are special care on the mountain roads looking
out for cattle herds and during winter
Huesca and Jaca. This region’s most popular sights snowdrifts. The more remote mountain
include the Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña, half- locations are accessible only on foot.
concealed beneath a rock overhang, and the impressively There are train services from Zaragoza and
sited Castillo de Loarre. No itinerary would be complete Valencia to Huesca. Jaca can be reached by
without taking in the beautiful valleys of Ansó, Hecho and coach from Huesca and Zaragoza. Minor
Tena, where fiestas are held. In the Catalonian Pyrenees, roads connect Jaca with Pamplona and Aínsa.
Buses from Jaca will take you to the entrances
the main centres are Ripoll, on the route from Barcelona, to the valleys. The Parque Nacional de Ordesa
Puigcerdà, La Seu d’Urgell, the forested Vall d’Aran with can be reached from Sabiñánigo.
its flowery meadows, and An ornate Romanesque capital in the Iglesia
the mountain principality Pau de Santiago in Agüero Pau
of Andorra.
Regional map VALLE DE VALLE DE PUERTO Balatous Vignemale Bagnères- VALL Tuc de Mauberm
3144 m
(10,318 ft)
HECHO
de-Luchon
DE SOMPORT
ANSÓ
3298 m (10,824 ft)
2This gives an illustrated Pamplona Sigüés Ansó Hecho VALLE DE TENA BROTO TORLA 3348 m (10,988 ft) BIELSA (11,064 ft) 3371 m DE ARÁN Aneto Artíes BAQUEIRA- Esterri d'Àneu Pica d'Estats A Romanesque stone church in the Vall de Boí
Monte Perdido
Pico Posets
VIELHA
(Iruña)
3115 m
BERET
(10,223 ft)
BIESCAS AND
PARQUE
Sangüesa
3404 m
(11,172 ft)
PARC NACIONAL
Embalse
overview of the whole region. SOS DEL REY MONASTERIO DE SAN JACA Sabiñánigo Puntón de Ara NACIONAL AINSA BENASQUE Vilaller Boí 2437 m (7,998 ft) Llavorsí CERDANYA ANDORRA PUIGCERDÀ QUERALBS AND Perpignan La Jonquera Port Bou
D'AIGÜESTORTES
Aragón
de Yesa
Andorra la Vella
DE ORDESA
Ésera
Tossal de l'Orri
JUAN DE LA PEÑA
Boltaña
CATÓLICO
All the sights are numbered, AGÜERO Ayerbe CASTILLO Arguís ARAGÓN Embalse Campo Roda de DE BOÍ VALL SORT La Pobla de D'URGELL SERRA DEL CADÍ Martinet Ribes de Freser SANCTUARI DE NÚRIA Figueres Cadaqués Golf de Roses
Llançà
Guara
LA SEU
de Mediano
DE LOARRE 2078 m
(6,820 ft)
VALL DE CAMPRODON
Arcusa
Isábena
Roses
SANT JOAN DE
Santa Eulalia
Bagà
and there are also useful tips de Gállego HUESCA Angüés ALQUÉZAR El Grado GRAUS Benabarre Lleida (Lérida) Coll de Nargó BERGA CATALONIA Besalú Banyoles Bàscara L'Estartit L'Escala
LES ABADESSES
Segur
RIPOLL
OLOT
C O S T A B R A V A
on getting around by car and Zaragoza Pertusa Laperdiguera BARBASTRO Gironella Vic Manlleu Pantà de Sau Anglès Girona Palafrugell Palamós
Aiguablava
Lleida (Lérida)
public transport. Sights at a Glance o Huesca Montseny Santa Coloma Llagostera Tossa de Mar
Sant Feliu
1 Sos del Rey Católico
de Farners
de Guíxols
p Vall d’Aran
2 Valle de Ansó
3 Valle de Hecho a Vielha 0 kilometres 25 Tordera Blanes Lloret de Mar
4 Puerto de Somport s Baqueira-Beret 25 Barcelona Calella
5 Jaca d Vall de Boí 0 miles Arenys
6 Monasterio de San Juan f Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes de Mar
de la Peña pp180–81 g Sort
7 Agüero h La Seu d’Urgell
8 Castillo de Loarre j Cerdanya
9 Biescas and Valle de Tena k Puigcerdà Key
0 Broto l Berga and Serra del Cadí Motorway
q Torla z Andorra Dual carriageway
w Bielsa x Ripoll
e Aínsa c Queralbs and Sanctuari de Major road
r Parque Nacional de Ordesa v Sant Joan de les Abadesses Minor road
Núria
pp186–9
Motorway under construction
t Benasque b Vall de Camprodon Scenic route
y Graus n Olot Main railway line
u Barbastro m Costa Brava National border
102  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION i Alquézar ASTURIAS AND C ANT ABRIA  103 A crystal-clear stream in the Parc Nacional Regional border
d’Aigüestortes Mountain peak A field of sunflowers in the Barbastro area
For hotels and restaurants see p207 and pp222–3 For keys to symbols see back flap
E Cueva de Tito Bustillo from Roman times, when a
Ribadesella. Tel 985 18 58 60. major port already existed here. Asturian Specialities
Open mid-Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Alfonso I of Asturias populated
Wed–Sun. & (free Wed, but it’s the expanding town under his Asturian food is hearty, based on flavourful meat (especially bacon and sausage),
necessary to reserve in advance colonization policy, while fresh fish, and very strong cheeses. Trout from mountain streams, as well as salmon
by calling the number above). Alfonso VIII of Castile granted and cod caught in the sea, often feature on menus, and the Gijón region is famous
Children over 7 only. it privileges in 1210. for its delicious sardines. Also popular are shellfish, particularly gooseneck barnacles,
For centuries, San Vicente
Environs was an important stopover for lobster and shrimps. Fish and shellfish are among the ingredients of la caldereta (fish
Nearby is the charming town of pilgrims travelling to Santiago stew). Flavour is further enhanced by the delicious local vegetables, such as peppers,
Llanes, ever popular for its well- de Compostela (see pp24–5). artichokes, lettuce and, above all, beans, which are used to make the traditional Asturian
preserved medieval quarter, its Today, it boasts a rich artistic fabada. High-quality milk enables the large-scale production of excellent cheeses, of
busy fishing port and its 30 legacy, which includes the which there are over 40 varieties. But, above all, Asturias is famous for its cider (sidra) –
beau tiful sandy beaches. The Iglesia de Santa María de los
Asturian coast is the most imp- Ángeles, built between the a mildly alcoholic drink that is used in many dishes, too. Features give information on
ortant Jurassic site in Spain. The 13th and 16th centuries. The
interactive and family-oriented interior features the beautiful The original
Museo Jurásico, near the village tomb of the Inquisitor Antonio labels on the
The richly decorated altar at the church of of Colunga, 46 km (29 miles) east del Corro, who is shown in a bottles of cider topics related to each region.
San Salvador in Llanes of Villaviciosa (see p99), contains reclining pose immersed in are a guarantee
around 20 replica dinosaurs. A the pages of a book. of high quality
t Ribadesella great walking trail, which takes The 15th-century monastery and traditional
methods; the
Asturias. Road Map E1. * 6,250. in some of the best fossils and of El Santuario de la Barquera production
n Paseo Princesa Letizia; 985 86 00 38. dinosaur tracks in the region, and El Convento de San Luis is labels are
( Wed. _ Descent of the Río Sella begins on nearby Griega beach. worth a visit. Now a private usually very
(1st Sat in Aug). ∑ ribadesella.es property, it is open to the public colourful and
E Museo Jurásico between April and July, and in
The old port straddling the Playa de la Griega, Colunga. mid- to late September. bear attractive
images of fruit.
mouth of the Sella river dates Tel 902 30 66 00. Open Feb–Jun & In the vicinity of San Vicente Cider is stored in wooden casks at the optimum tem-
from the reign of Alfonso X Sep–Dec: 10am–2:30pm & 3:30–6pm are broad picturesque beaches – perature of 9–10ºC (48–50ºF). Too low a tempera ture
of Castile, who founded this Wed–Fri; 10:30am–2:30pm & 4–7pm Meron, Tostadero and Oyambre. will hinder the fermentation process; too high a Detailed information
enchanting seaside town. Sat & Sun; Jul–Aug: 10:30am–8pm temperature will overly accelerate it; ideally, the
It has always been of strategic daily. Closed Jan. & (free Wed). Environs maturation process should take five to six months.
importance for the area. ∑ museojurasicoasturias.com The cave of El Soplao, 28 km 3on each sight
Today, on one side of the river (17 miles) inland, has brilliant Fabada, a tasty, satis-
is the lively seaport full of tapas white helictites (like stalactites During Nava’s July fying dish, is made
bars serving fresh fish, while on y Picos de Europa or stalagmites, but without a Cider Festival, you from Asturian beans
the other is the more modern See pp104–7. stem). These are so dazzling that can sample this drink (fabes) and various All the important towns and
part; its beautiful broad beach it has been nicknamed “the while enjoying tradi- meats, including
tional dancing and
local sausage
is the reason why Ribadesella u San Vicente subterranean Sistine Chapel”. Asturian folk songs. (chorizo), bacon
has become a popular holiday There is a bus service from The cider is poured (tocino) and ham,
resort. A multicoloured flotilla de la Barquera Santander (see pp114–15) into a glass from a which infuse the other places to visit are described
of kayaks arrives here on the Cantabria. Road Map F1. * 4,400. run by ALSA. bottle held high beans with flavour.
first Saturday in August, in an n Avda del Generalísimo 20; 942 71 above the head to
international regatta that is 07 97. _ La Folía (1st Sun after Easter). E El Soplao give it a fizzy head.
held every year. Near Rábago. Tel 902 82 02 82. individually. They are listed in
On the edge of the town is The first mention of this Open call for details. & 8
the Cueva de Tito Bustillo, a beautiful maritime town dates 7 partial. ∑ elsoplao.es
series of interconnected caves order, following the numbering
with beautiful prehistoric
paintings. Discovered in 1968,
the drawings date from the
Palaeolithic era – from 22,000 to on the Regional Map. Within each
10,000 BC – and include superb
black and red images of stags’
and horses’ heads. To protect
the paintings, only 15 visitors The Asturian village town or city, there is detailed
are allowed on each guided of Llanos de Somerón Asturian cheese (queso asturiano),
tour. Put on warm clothing is famous for its delicious made from cow’s, sheep’s and
when entering the cave, as the mixed-blossom honey, goat’s milk, has a slightly strong,
temperature is surprisingly cool, produced from the pungent flavour and smell. information on important
and wear sturdy, comfortable nectar of heather and The best known are cabrales
walking boots – watch your step, chestnut flowers. and taramundi.
as the cave floors are uneven. The picturesque port in San Vicente de la Barquera
For hotels and restaurants see pp204–5 and pp217–19 buildings and other major sights.
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