Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Major towns
4All the important towns and other places to visit are A Visitors’ Checklist gives
described individually. They are listed in order, following contact information for tourist
the numbering on the map. Within each town or city, offices, transport information,
there is detailed information on important buildings and details of market days and dates
of local festivals.
other major sights.
156  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION P A MPL ONA  157
8 Pamplona (Iruña) by a symbolic statue of a de la Misericordia. Its highlights Ventura Rodríguez. One of the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
woman upholding the historic include Roman mosaics, two towers holds the 12­tonne
In 75 BC, the Roman general Pompey founded the town of laws (fueros) of Navarra. Gothic and Baroque murals, María bell. Inside, some of the Practical Information
Pompaelo on the site of the old Basque settle ment of Iruña. Romanesque capitals from the painted decoration on the Navarra. Road Map B5.
* 200,000 n C/San Saturnino
Strategically located on the river at the foot of the Pyrenees, P Plaza del Castillo cathedral cloister, and an ivory walls and pillars has been 2; 948 42 07 00. _ San Fermín
restored. The cloister, with its
casket that draws inspiration
The square owes its name
Pamplona played the role of a fortified border town. Today, it to a castle raised here in the from Islamic decorative motifs. beautifully carved 14th­century (6–14 Jul), San Saturnino (29 Nov),
is the financial, commercial and academic centre of Navarra, 14th century. Initially used as gateways (Puerta Preciosa and San Francisco Javier (3 Dec).
offering visitors fine cuisine and pleasant walks along the a marketplace and place for Puerta de Amparo) is a
∑ turismodepamplona.es
riverside or through the Old Town. Each July, the world- fiestas, it later became a venue masterpiece of European Transport
famous San Fermín festival, with its bull running, totally for bullfights, when the Gothic style.
k Tel 902 40 47 04. £ Plaza
transforms the city. balconies of the surrounding The Museo Docesano houses de Estación; 902 32 03 20.
a collection of religious art
houses were used as seating
@ C/Yanguas y Miranda 2;
areas. Until the 19th century, from all over Navarra, including 902 02 36 51.
Exploring Pamplona yellowed by the sun, and its the square was enclosed. In a set of medieval statues of
To fully appreciate its charms, moats have long been empty – 1931, a theatre along one of its the Virgin.
Pamplona, with its parks and but once you pass through the sides was destroyed to make people, making it one of the
wide avenues, is best explored main entrance, the impres sion is way for Avenida Carlos III, P Plaza de Toros most modern bullrings in
on foot. From the old city walls very different. Encircling the an avenue linking the square Pamplona’s bullring, known Spain. The famous July bull
– situated to the north in a well­kept lawn are the citadel’s with the city’s new districts. Richly decorated stalls in the Catedral as the Monumental, holds run – the encierro – ends here.
loop of the Arga river – you former buildings, now converted de Santa María la Real around 19,500
can get a good overview. into exhibition rooms. The oldest spectators and is
Going south, the Old Town structure is the powder magazine R Cathedral surpassed in size
ends at a massive citadel. (Polvorín), dating from 1694. C/Dormitalería 1; 948 21 25 94. Open only by the arenas in
You can climb up the embank­ 10:30am–6pm Mon–Sat; 10am–2pm, Madrid and Mexico
ment onto one of the surviving 6:30–9pm Sun (visitor access is City. Designed by
through the museum). & 8
bastions for a view of the area. The cathedral of Santa María Francisco Urcola, the
Monumental was
P Palacio de Navarra la Real was built during the officially opened
Avenida Carlos III 2; 848 42 71 27. 13th–16th centuries, and later in 1922. Several
Open To large groups only (not indi­ remodelled several times. improvements were
viduals), by prior arrangement. 7 This aisled Gothic shrine has a made in 2005, The town map shows all
This Neo­Classical palace, Rococo sacristy, chapels from including the
designed in 1840 by Juan de The colourful façade of one of the various periods, and a Neo­ addition of a lift and
Nagusia, is the seat of the city’s tenements Classical façade designed by vehicles for disabled A square with fountains in the city centre major through-roads as well
provincial government. Set in
the tympanum is the Navarra R Iglesia San Saturnino Pamplona
coat of arms flanked by two Also known as Iglesia de San
The walls of the city’s 16th-century citadel, men – a highlander and an Cernín, this Romanesque City Centre as minor streets of interest to
among parks and gardens inhabitant of the river basin. church (13th century) was built 1 Ciudadela Santo Parque de Palacio del Virrey
Inside is a portrait of Fernando on the site where St Saturninus Puente Domingo Santo
900 m
+ Ciudadela VII by Goya, as well as many is said to have baptized some 2 Palacio de Navarra de la Rochapea Arga Museo Domingo Antiguo Hospital Cathedral visitors. All the sights are plotted,
3 Plaza del Castillo
(980 yds)
Felipe II ordered the construc tion other paintings – mostly 40,000 pagan townspeople. 4 Iglesia San Saturnino FRANCE VITORIA (GASTEIZ) CUESTA SANTO DOMINGO Militar C. CURIA Basilica de San Martin
de Navarra
of Pamplona’s citadel in 1571. portraits – from the 19th and One of its massive towers is 5 Museo de Navarra SAN SEBASTIÁN C. DE JARAUTA Ayuntamiento Iglesia San
From the outside, the building 20th centuries. In front of the a clock tower, topped by a 6 Cathedral Saturnino B AJADA DE JAVIER Palacio Arzobispal along with the bus and train
(DONOSTIA)
looks rather decrepit – grass is palace stands a column topped cockerel – the Gallico de San 7 Plaza de Toros C A L L E M AYO R PLAZA DEL CALDERERÍA SAN AGUSTÍN
PLAZA
Cernín, a symbol of the city. In Parque de San Lorenzo Palacio de C . N U E V A C . Z A PAT E R Í A CASTILLO CALLE DE LA ESTAFETA
DE SAN
the 18th century, the church’s la Taconera FRANCISCO
The Kingdom of Navarra BAJADA DE LABRIT stations, parking, tourist offices
cloister was replaced by the CALL E DE LA los Vasallos Palacio PLAZA
Navarra emerged as an independent Christian kingdom in the 9th Baroque Capilla della Virgen del San Nicolas PASEO DE SARASATE de Navarra DE TOROS
century, after Sancho I Garcés became king of Pamplona. Sancho III Camino. Its beautiful reredos NAVAS DE TOLOSA TACONERA AVENIDA DE SAN I C . DE A R AL A R and churches.
the Great expanded the kingdom, and at his death, in contains a 12th­century ESTELLA PLAZA AVENIDA CARLOS III C . D E L E Y R E
1035, Navarra stretched from Ribagorza (in Aragón) to wooden robed figure of the LOGROÑO VÍNCULO DEL
Valladolid, but his heirs failed to hold the kingdom Virgin, covered in silver tiles. C . D E PA U L I N O C A
C. ARRIETA CALLE DE OLITE
together. Sancho VI the Wise (1150– A V E N I D A D E L E J É R C I T O PLAZA MERINDADES PLAZA DE LAS FRANCE IRUN
94), recognized the independent E Museo de Navarra Key PLAZA AVENIDA DE LA BAJA NAVARRA RONCESVALLES
GARCÍA XIMÉNEZ GNACIO
PRINCIPE
DE VIANA
rights (fueros) of many towns. C/Santo Domingo 47; 848 42 64 92. C. YANGUAS Y MIRANDA C. DE LEYRE
In 1234, Navarra passed by Open 9:30am–2pm & 5–7pm Bull­running route Ciudadela C. DE TUDELA PL. DE LA
DE LA PAZ
C. S A N F ER MÍ N
marriage to French rulers. In 1512, Tue–Sat, 11am–2pm Sun and C. DE SANGÜESA CRUZ
Fernando II of Castile annexed holidays. & (free Sat pm & Sun). AVENIDA DE ZARAGOZA C. NAVARRO VILLOSLADA B A L L E R O
it as part of a united Spain. 8 by prior arrangement. 7
Carlos de Viana, one of the last leaders The Museum of Navarra is 0 metres 200 PLAZA DE LOS FUEROS TUDELA ZARAGOZA
MADRID
of independent Navarra located inside the former Aeropuerto
7 km (4 miles)
Hospital de Nuestra Señora 0 yards 200
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–7 and pp221–2 For keys to symbols see back flap
64  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION SANTIA GO DE C OMPOSTELA  65
w Street-by-Street: Santiago de Compostela Convento de San Paio VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
de Antealtares
This is one of the oldest
In the Middle Ages Santiago de Compostela was Christendom’s third monasteries in Santiago. Practical Information
A Coruña. Road Map B2.
A suggested route for a walk most important place of pilgrimage, after Jerusalem and Rome. Around It was founded in the 9th * 95,000. n Rúa do Vilar 63,
century to house the
the Praza do Obradoiro is an ensemble of historic buildings that has
981 55 51 29. ( Thu, Sat.
tomb of St James, now
few equals in Europe. The local granite gives a harmonious unity to the
_ Easter Week, Ascension (40
covers the most interesting streets mixture of archi tectural styles. With its narrow streets and old squares, in the cathedral. days after Easter), St James (24
the city centre is compact enough to explore on foot. Of its many
Jul). ∑ santiagoturismo.com
Transport
monuments, two are especially worth seeking out – the Convento de
in the area. Santo Domingo de Bonaval, to the east of the centre, and the Colegiata k Lava colla. £ Rúa do Hórreo
75a, 902 32 03 20. @ Pl. de
Santa María la Real del Sar, a 12th-century Romanesque church located
Camilo Díaz Baliño, 981 54 24 16.
to the east of the city. R Ú A D E X E R U S A L É N Praza da Quintana, in front
of the cathedral clock tower,
elegant squares.
. Convento de San R Ú A D A T R O I A is one of the city’s most
Martiño Pinario
The Baroque church of R ÚA D E AC E V E C H E R I A
this monastery has a
huge double altar and
an ornate façade in
the Plateresque style, V Í A S A C R A
with carved figures of
saints and bishops.
Street-by-Street Map Pazo de Xelmírez (1120-49) R U E L A D O V A L D E D E U S P R A Z A D A I N M A C U L A D A cathedral opens onto this charming
Praza das Praterias
The Goldsmiths’ Doorway of the
5Towns or districts of special is a beautiful palace with R Ú A D E S A N F R A N C I S C O R Ú A D E X E L M Í R E Z R Ú A N O V A square with the Dos Cavalos
Romanesque features and
fountain in the centre.
spectacular views from
the roof terrace.
interest to visitors are shown
in detailed 3-D, with photographs PR A Z A DO R Ú A D A R A I Ñ A R Ú A D O V I L A R To tourist Key Suggested route
OBR ADOIRO
Pilgrimage route
of the most important sights, F R A N C O information The Rúa Nova is a
R Ú A D O
giving a bird’s-eye view of . Hostal de los Reyes Católicos 0 metres 100 100 handsome arcaded old
street leading from the
Built by the Catholic Monarchs
cathedral to the newer
0 yards
as an inn and hospital for sick
part of the city.
pilgrims, and now a parador, this
the area. magnificent building has an Colexio de
elaborate Plateresque doorway.
San Xerome
. Cathedral
Praza do Obradoiro This grand towering spectacle has
This majestic square is one welcomed pilgrims to Santiago
of the world’s finest and The Pazo de Raxoi, for centuries. Though the exterior
the focal point for pilgrims with its Neo-Classical has been remodelled over the
arriving in the city. The façade, was built in years, the core of the building has
cathedral’s Baroque façade 1772 and houses the remained virtually unchanged
dominates the square. town hall. since the 11th century.
For hotels and restaurants see p204 and pp216–17 For keys to symbols see back flap
142  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION THE BASQUE C OUNTR Y  143
u Santuario de Loiola The two rooms of the museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Museum of Religious Art
Iñigo de Loiola, or St Ignatius (1491–1556), founder of contain rare and valuable Practical Information
Loiola (Guipúzcoa). Road Map B4.
the Jesuit order, was born in the stone manor known as exhibits, such as a mahogany Sanctuary: Tel 943 02 50 00.
Santa Casa (Holy House). The manor was incorporated reredos, reliquaries, and copies Santa Casa: Open 10am–12:30pm, For all the top sights, a Visitors’ Checklist
of St Ignatius’ Spiritual Exercises
in 1681–1738 into a shrine designed by Carlo Fontana, in many languages. 3:30–6:15pm daily (to 7:15pm
and the rooms where the Loyola family had lived were summer). 5 8:30am (in the
Chapel of the Conversion).
converted into chapels. The most important of these is n daily. & provides the practical information you will
the Chapel of the Conversion, the room where Ignatius, . Interior of the Basilica ∑ santuariodeloyola.org
as a young soldier, had a profound religious experi ence The richly decorated and gilded
while recovering from a battle injury. The Baroque Churrigueresque interior is covered need to plan your visit.
basilica, with a circular nave and a in grey and pink marble.
Churrigueresque dome, is the
shrine’s highlight.
Figures by the Santa Casa
The bronze figures, by Juan Flotats,
show the return of Ignatius, who
had been injured while defending Coats of Arms
the castle in Pamplona. The interior of the dome,
33 m (108 ft) in
diameter, is covered
in carved royal coats
of arms set against a
back ground of pink marble –
the work of Gaetano Pace.
The Founding of the Jesuit Order
The Jesuit order was founded in Rome in 1539 by
St Ignatius, a former soldier, and a group of priests
who were dedicated to puri fying the Church and Entrance to the Library Top sights
resisting Protestantism. Pope Paul III soon approved The library has 150,000
the order’s estab lishment, with Ignatius as Superior volumes, of which some
General. The order, which grew wealthy, 30,000 date from the 15th
. Santa Casa vowed military obedience to the Pope and Doors of the Basilica to 18th centuries. There is 6These are given two or more pages.
In the Holy House – the original became his most powerful weapon against The doors are made of cedar also a music archive.
home of the Loyola family, the Reformation. Today, there are nearly of Lebanon and mahogany
around which the Sanctuary 20,000 Jesuits working, mainly in education, imported from Cuba; in the
was built – is the Chapel of the in 127 countries. niche above them is a figure of Important buildings are dissected
Conversion, with a beautiful St Ignatius of Loyola St Ignatius by Ignacio de Ibero.
sculpture of Ignatius Loyola.
to reveal their interiors.
For hotels and restaurants see pp205–6 and pp219–21
Stars indicate the works of
art or features that no visitor
should miss.
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